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Old 12-31-2010, 09:08 PM   #1
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2009 Harley 1200 N
2006 GSXR (sold)
2004 Roadstar (sold)
2004 Honda Aero(sold)

Buying advice please

I'm going to check out a 1995 FZR 600 tomorrow. The guy is asking $1700.00 and it has 5500 miles. Any suggestions as to what to look for, questions to ask, and if the price is right? Appreciate the advice. Thanks-Busta
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:11 PM   #2
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I'd take it to Motorcycles Unlimited and have Patrick look it over
Originally Posted by bumblebee View Post
"I lack skillz"
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:12 PM   #3
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lots of em

make sure to ask if it goes Potato, potato, potato
[COLOR="Lime"][B]Highway HorrorS c.c.[/B][/COLOR]

I respect scootertrash because well... He's like the Jesus of building and fixing .
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:33 PM   #4
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07 ZZR 600

are they going to be open tomorrow?
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:40 PM   #5
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Taken from

Buying a used bike can be a stressful endeavor.
Questions abound; was the bike wrecked? Does it have any mechanical issues? Has the normal maintenance been kept up with?

This short guide can help unravel some of these questions as well as help give you some things to look for.
First, do your homework.
Determine what bike / bikes you’re interested in.
Check on line reviews or ask helpful dealers what they think of certain models.
Let the dealer know you’ll also consider him when it come time to buy, or for parts and service afterwards.
Check out and see what the bikes value is.
Also get a copy of your local Cycle trader, etc. and see what the market value is.
Depending on the bike, market value and NADA value can be significantly different.

Most motorcycle dealers do not allow test rides, and many private owners are very hesitant to allow test rides by individuals.
Inquire if the dealer you’re talking with will do a cursory general inspection and test drive for you. Many will do so for a nominal fee.

At Motorcycles Unlimited we’ll do a free visual inspection and test drive for no charge.

If an owner is unwilling to bring a bike to have it looked at, or you can’t find someone to look at it for you, here are some things to check out:
Look at the overall cosmetic condition of the bike. Is it weathered looking or does it have rusted components?
Does the bodywork fit well, not have any cracks or road rash?
Are the fasteners all present and are not mismatched. Any of these things can mean the bike has been down and repaired.

Also look for scratches at points that might have not been replaced from a crash; scratch marks on levers, bar ends, brake pedal / shift lever, engine covers, axles and swingarm.
Sure, some marks may be from a drop in the driveway, but there’s a big difference from marks left from a not at speed drop and a low side crash.

Check out the tires. Are they worn or close to the wear indicators? Are the tires dry rotted / dry cracked?

How are the brake pads? Anything less than 2 credit cards thickness of the pad will need service soon.

Is the brake fluid dark or yellow / clear looking?
Dark brake fluid will need to be flushed and bled soon.

Are the chain and sprockets worn? Look for kinks in the chain or rust.
Check out the rear sprocket, are the teeth nice and wide, or are they very sharp and pointed?

How does the oil look? Is it clean and filled to the proper level or dark and low or even over filled.

Look at the forks and shock / shocks for signs of leaking or rust / pitting.

Has the owner kept up with the regularly scheduled maintenance on the bike? Does he have receipts?

If everything looks good, now you’re ready to start the bike.
First, is the bike warm or cold?
A bike already at operating temp could mean difficulty starting when cold.
Listen to how the bike starts; does it turn over easily and fire right off.
Does any smoke come from the exhaust?
If it’s a cold start, it’ll take a minute or three to warm up and settle into an even idle.
The bike should then take gas and free rev easily.

If you can test drive the bike, make sure it’ll go into all of the gears and they don’t pop out of gear. Transmission repairs on most motorcycles require engine removal and are expensive.

See if you can feel the clutch slipping. Typically I’ll put the bike in 5th or 6th gear at around of the max rpm and then crack the throttle wide open. The bike should slowly move out, but the rpms should build gradually and not climb wildly.

Does the bike pull one way or the other? It could simply be as simple as a misaligned chain or something more serious.

If everything checks out, you can begin the negotiation process.
One caveat; make sure the seller either has a clear / clean title, or that the lien holder will release the title to either you or your bank once it’s paid off.

If you’re in doubt about anything, have a professional inspect it or check the title status.

Good luck, and ride well!
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:42 PM   #6
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Save 1300 and get a newer bike
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Old 12-31-2010, 10:25 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by PYROBUG51 View Post
Save 1300 and get a newer bike
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