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Old 08-11-2009, 08:06 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by kawasakijockey View Post
If you can get it loose with a 6 pt put some vice grip pliers on it or buy an 8 or 10 inch pipe wrench with a small cheater pipe.
LOL, a big pipe wrench and with a massive cheater (and a large friend.)....the only way to remove factory torsion bars on a late model tahoe/suburban.
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:51 PM   #22
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You can probably find another whole cush drive and have it done and over for cheap $/no time.

+1 on the heat....BUT, I recently changed all of my steering head bearings and swingarm bearings. I picked up an industrial heat gun. Worked like a charm and definitely is not going to be real detrimental to the aluminum. What I would worry about is the bearings in the cush drive. Heating it up cannot be good for the grease or dust seals.

I say go with a Pneumatic impact

I am surprised that the studs did not unscrew. If all else fails, vice grips.

If it's on your 'tard, then I remove "cush drive" from what I typed
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Last edited by Mr Richards; 08-11-2009 at 09:53 PM. Reason: Noticed you ride dirt!
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:50 AM   #23
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I have taken crappy wrenches and welded them directly onto nuts before, you get both heat on the stubborn thing and if you know what you are doing when welding the nut on you will either come off or you can rip the nut in half.

Also craftsmen makes these little sockets that have spiral serated teeth in them and your use it as a socket, they work amazing also
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Old 08-12-2009, 08:32 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Slowkat View Post
LOL, a big pipe wrench and with a massive cheater (and a large friend.)....the only way to remove factory torsion bars on a late model tahoe/suburban.
only if you don't have a proper tool to do it the right way. there's actually a special torsion bar removal tool. it looks like a large c-clamp that holds the torsion bar in place so you can loosen the tensioners safely and remove the torsion bar.
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