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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Cypress
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'08 GSX-R600 '18 S1000R |
Is this safe?...
...and if not, are there any legitimate repairs that can be done to make it safe? It's about the size of a bar end
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#2 |
AKA 675R
Join Date: May 2016
Location: SW Houston
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Aprilia Tuono RR 2018 Triumph Street Triple R 2015 (Sold) Yamaha FZ6R 2015 (Sold fast) Suzuki Katana 750 1990 (Sold) Honda Twinstar 200 1980 (Sold) |
use a spare bar end and hammer on it until it plugs the spot, fixed!
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#3 |
250 rolling track chicane
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Ouch! What happened? That looks nasty. I'm an engineer by trade and do assessments of steel damage on occasion (mostly on cranes). If that were a crane boom, I'd say 'No way'. It's a bit hard to tell the extent of the damage, but it does look like there's some cracking just above the impact point. It also looks like some possible stress cracking in the weld just about 7 o'clock from the impact spot, but again, hard to tell from a picture. Riding to work, probably fine, just keep an eye on it. Racing, cross-country trip, something like that, I'd avoid, especially if that is in fact a crack in the weld joining the two frame sections together. As for repairs, being close to the original weld like that complicates things a bit, as you'd have to re-weld over the heat-affected zone...typically a no-no as it's an almost guaranteed site for a future stress crack. There are certainly plenty of welders in town who can fix that, the question is more if they should...
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This thing goes how fast?!?!?! |
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#4 |
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Yeah. I agree with Rustin. I would be more concerned with other damage to the bike as well. The whole bike needs to be taken down to the frame and checked for cracks, especially at the steering head and the triple tree. As long as the repair is done correctly, i.e at a minimum dye checking the frame after the repair, you should be ok. No stunting for this bike .
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#5 |
Senior Member
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'08 GSX-R600 '18 S1000R |
Added a couple more close shots. There is definitely a crack above the hole but no crack that I can see on the weld. Thanks for the info guys. Not what I wanted to hear but I'm glad to know.
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#6 |
Yeah I'm flippin' YOU off
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pearland
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I'm no engineer but my thought is, could the damaged area be cut out and a plug made from similar material welded in place? Maybe material cut from a wrecked frame...
That should reduce the likelihood of future cracking and restore nearly all the strength. As mentioned you'd want to stay as far as possible from the original weld but I think it could be repaired to the point of being 95% a LOT cheaper than replacing the frame. On the other hand if there is full coverage insurance involved, maybe totaling it out and buying a new bike might be the best way to go. |
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#7 |
the crotch-rocketeer!
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I believe that frame is cast aluminum. From talking to some pretty knowledgeable aluminum welders at NASA... it wont really weld very well with the usual set-up because cast aluminum has a higher level of magnesium or something like that. If you still plan to ride it, I'd use a paint pen or marker to mark the ends of the cracks to see if they get worse over time. Hard cornering where the frame could be flexing should probably be avoided but just a fairly easy paced straight commute should be fine.
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#8 |
Senior Member
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if you like to pop wheelies... no bueno.
if you cruise around easy youll be fine. I'd just do a frame swap for peace of mind. |
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#9 |
Yeah I'm flippin' YOU off
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pearland
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'74 Suzuki GT380 '82 XS650 StreetTracker '17 Triumph Thruxton R '83 Yamaha Seca 900 |
Yeah... cast frame = no welding
It's possible to weld cast aluminum but it isn't for the average welder and on a frame might not be good. At the same time, that frame is overbuilt and I think unlikely to fail in a sudden catastrophic break. If the cracks don't migrate and you keep an eye on it, I bet it will be ok. My thought is to ride it for a month or 2. If everything seems solid, then I would smooth out the radius of the hole and cut the craks out completely. Any sharp discontinuities are stress rises and possible starts of problems. Polish all that stuff out and since nothing moved before you should be ok. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
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You can buy the frame from a wreck, part out, or a blank from from the manufacturer.
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#12 |
more torque please
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: magnolia
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As far as welding pieces of the same material together on the frame.. Uuhhhh... I see lots of welds already on the frame to put it together.. So not sure why it would be any more difficult to weld in another piece? But then again.. Im a very amateur welder who would not even attempt such a thing so...
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#14 |
Rotsevnieht
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Ummm - no.
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#15 |
Senior Member
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I had a small crack on a cast aluminum ZX6R frame TIG welded and it cracked in the same spot almost immediately. That frame is toast.
How did it happen. |
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Danny |
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#16 |
BORC Originator
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Well, it's a GSXR so.....best bet is to upgrade to a Ninja and call it a day.
Jk, everyone so far has given good advice and I have nothing else to add. GL, and it was nice meeting you on Sunday. Perhaps your next bike will have traction control? Best not to purposely test her limits even if it's low speed, you experienced how quick it can get out of hand ![]() |
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#17 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Cypress
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Posts: 192
Experience: 9-12 months Trackdays: 2
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'08 GSX-R600 '18 S1000R |
Clowning around and being a dumb basically. I have no real further explanation. Not sure what I expected from WOT in the rain in first gear
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#20 | |
MotoHouston.com Owner.
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