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Old 06-28-2009, 10:55 PM   #1
Texas94fs
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Stripped

So fixin up ole Speedcheesers bike today (Zx6r) we ran across a huge problem. Actually bent (twisted) a torx bit attempting to remove the stator. The torx bolts were in so ridiculously tight. Needless to say this bend in the bit stripped out two of the 4 bolts holding the coil in. So the next step is to figure out how in the fukk to get the bolts out without damaging the stator because it is still good and who wants to spend extra dough on they don't have too.
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Old 06-28-2009, 11:01 PM   #2
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impact driver and a hammer and a socket bit
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Old 06-28-2009, 11:05 PM   #3
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Already used hammer and socket bit in attempts, no go.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:19 PM   #4
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Drill the heads off.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:20 PM   #5
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correct, Drill into the head till it falls off
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:56 PM   #6
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Use a drill bit that is bigger than the head of the bolt you are trying to get off.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:02 PM   #7
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I just got a easy out set too if you need to use some, but I think it will be easier to drill the head off then drill down the center of the bolt.
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:25 PM   #8
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Looks like I'll be drilling it then, hopefully we can manage to save the stator.
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:33 PM   #9
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The cover or on the stator?

An actual impact driver makes a more controlled and direct hammer/ratcheting effect that is manual.

If you have a head on the bolt to grab the outside, smack an impact socket over it and unscrew. Pop it out w an extension on the bench. Or go to sears and get an extractor kit; it threads onto the outside and is designed to tighten as you unscrew.

Chanel locks or Mac adjust pliers(those teeth are killer for grabbing stuff)

I'd leave drilling to the last resort; put grease on the drill bit and cover everything.
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:46 PM   #10
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The 4 bolts holding the stator to the cover. Tried to use channel locks they just slipped off the outside of the head. Will have to take one of the old bolts and buy an impact socket to attempt to get the things out.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:07 PM   #11
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If you have a 12 point craftsman set, it will crack, but has a warranty
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaligoneTx View Post
If you have a 12 point craftsman set, it will crack, but has a warranty
Done and done. Thats the next thing to try.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:26 PM   #13
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Hey, thanks for posting this up, Matt. I've actually been meaning to do that but never got around to it. (still at work now ) I really should have thought to get some pics. I'm gonna have to try to do that soon.

Matt (Cali), the thing about grabbing the outside of the bolt, even if you get it to hold, there's kind of a circular lip around it that's actually really close to the bolts, which make it really hard to turn the wrench, which was part of the problem we were having with the channel locks. Plus it's a round head, so hard to get a grip on. Any of the things you were mentioning work on a round head? (no sexual inuendos implied)

Gabriel, how does the easy out kit work? Looks like bolt is pretty thin, so I'm not sure how much room there is left in it to work with.

Thanks to anyone and everyone for suggestions (and tools if you have them for rent)
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:34 PM   #14
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the sockets that tightened over the outside of the bolts are made for circular bolts. However they are a little thicker then a standard socket.

If you cant do it w a standard socket(theoretically more torque since the outside of the bolt is further away then the inside torx when turning you should be able to take it off easier) then drilling may be the option.

They mentioned drilling off the head to remove the rotor; that will leave the remaining of the studd exposed once the rotor is removed. Most of the tension is at the head of the bolt anyways.

EasyOuts(also available from Sears) you drill then hammer these square punches into the hole drilled in the bolt and as you twist to remove the bolt via the punch it tightens.

Im on the Northside but if you need to borrow anything I have I usually dont have need for that stuff. But would like it back timely.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:38 PM   #15
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The bolts were ridiculously tight, actually twisted a torx bit I had. If I remember correctly there is enough space to hammer a socket on but it is just enough room. If we could stay away from drilling it would be the best, that way there is more chance the stator is salvageable. So the socket will be the first trick, won't take but 10 minutes to try and then sears is right down the road.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:54 PM   #16
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I have some torx sockets(quarter and 3/8") if that would help(so long as not stripped)


but I've heard Matt likes a stud that strips... lol; sorry had to....
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:15 PM   #17
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If U wanna bring it buy I will handle it for free, shops in Tomball
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaligoneTx View Post
the sockets that tightened over the outside of the bolts are made for circular bolts. However they are a little thicker then a standard socket.

If you cant do it w a standard socket(theoretically more torque since the outside of the bolt is further away then the inside torx when turning you should be able to take it off easier) then drilling may be the option.

They mentioned drilling off the head to remove the rotor; that will leave the remaining of the studd exposed once the rotor is removed. Most of the tension is at the head of the bolt anyways.

EasyOuts(also available from Sears) you drill then hammer these square punches into the hole drilled in the bolt and as you twist to remove the bolt via the punch it tightens.

Im on the Northside but if you need to borrow anything I have I usually dont have need for that stuff. But would like it back timely.
As long as the stator itself isn't threaded, then I guess drilling the head off should work. It doesn't look like there's a whole lot of room for a socket to fit on the outside if I remember correctly, especially one that's any wider than standard. May need to acquire a drill then...only thing I have is a small, battery operated Dremel.

If I do wind up borrowing anything from you, then depending one when you're available and what day I get them it could potentially be a one day thing. I'd bring everything back as soon as possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas94fs View Post
The bolts were ridiculously tight, actually twisted a torx bit I had. If I remember correctly there is enough space to hammer a socket on but it is just enough room. If we could stay away from drilling it would be the best, that way there is more chance the stator is salvageable. So the socket will be the first trick, won't take but 10 minutes to try and then sears is right down the road.
lol, yeah. That twisted bit was pretty crazy. Quite literally, the bit reminded me of a roots blower screw by the time we were done.

Quote:
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If U wanna bring it buy I will handle it for free, shops in Tomball
Dude, that would be awesome. What days are you open? It would have to be a weekend because of my schedule at work, though probably not this one obviously. Only thing is I'll either have to find a way to cart the bike out there or take half of the thing apart to get the stator off. But yeah, if you could PM me your number and times you're around, that would be awesome.
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Old 06-30-2009, 11:03 AM   #19
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Quote:
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If you have a 12 point craftsman set, it will crack, but has a warranty
Need to use 6 point impact socket; 12 point does not work.
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Old 06-30-2009, 11:08 AM   #20
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I am at 59 and 99 and have some tools and I could also borrow some tools from some neighbors. I am busy out at SWMX everyday after work building dirt jumps for the 4th, but I might take off Thursday, I have Friday off and might take off monday too. Send me a PM with your number and I will call you to see if I can help you when i am not busy.
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