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Old 06-25-2009, 09:39 AM   #21
camaroz2866
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K got wiring harnes squared away except the brake/signal small harness, when I plug it in fuse pops,

Also bike won't start, powers up, fuel pump primes, cranks but not start, I made sure tip over sensor is in right position, any idead on this part?
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:02 AM   #22
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If a fuse is blowing you likely have a short to ground before the load.

Really need a wiring diagram.

Recheck the wiring splices.
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:57 PM   #23
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caligone call me if you can 281 736 5664, are you saying the ground is in the main harness or the tail light harness that when i plug in the fuse pops? i was thinking its in the sub harness(harness for tail light n turn signals) thanks alot!!!!

anyone have a idea as to why it wont start now?
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Old 06-26-2009, 02:13 PM   #24
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if its not to much of a pain, i recommend taking all of the fairings off and tracing all of the wires in you harness for any damage, also recheck the connections on the wires that you replaced, I say this because since you have multiple problems, the damage may not be isolated to one area. imo

oh yea and service manuals are worth their weight in gold...
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Old 06-26-2009, 02:35 PM   #25
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and solder is not good. use connectors. solder can crack or just comeapart.
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Old 06-26-2009, 02:37 PM   #26
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and you may have re routed a wire or 2 in the wrong places. recheck your work. hope you have a reference to how it is supposed to be, like the manual or wrote it down before you cut the wires out.
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:27 PM   #27
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Quote:
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and solder is not good. use connectors. solder can crack or just comeapart.
HAHAHA, that's a good one

Do it right and it's 100 times better than any connector.
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:37 PM   #28
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and solder is not good. use connectors. solder can crack or just comeapart.


you must not know how to solder
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:41 PM   #29
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Im gonna be a little busy here...

basically as they mentioned, get a wiring diagram for the wire that is popping. follow where it is coming from(the fuse) and where it goes(the switch or the load.) disconnect that item and either put another fuse in or disconnect the fuse and with the other side off(switch or load) check the continuity of the wire to ground.

to do a continuity check the wires have to be open on both sides. If you find continuity to ground, you have a short in that part of the wire. Connect the next part of the wire and continue.

If you are blowing a fuse either you have a short to ground or scaffing wire before the load so the amperage increases when the item is hot, or you have a crossed wire after the load w a larger load that is coming on and piggy backing the power enough to blow the fuse.
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:42 PM   #30
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I work till 5, then doing helping a coworker w his mx, then rollerskating etc.

I'll PM u my number if you're a texter; my family is on my plan and kills my minutes


Since this is a safety related system(turn signals) dont drive it on the road like this. If this is unresolved by Sunday I'll see if I can come to you.
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:50 PM   #31
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i know what i'm talking about. to each their own. automotive manufacturers use connectors for these reasons when performing wiring repairs.
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Old 06-26-2009, 05:21 PM   #32
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Some do, especially when on the inside of the automobile since the a/c will help reduce moisture. The other reason they use it is cost. A hard wire can become brittle if exposed to vibration if its load carrying(weight.) Not only does insulation or shrink wrap protect the connection from moisture it also provides tensile strength amongst the wiring(much like the phone book myth w surface area; two phone books weaved page to page is unseparatable.)
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Old 06-26-2009, 09:07 PM   #33
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Old 06-26-2009, 09:22 PM   #34
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sell your bike... get a honda

is this the first time your bike has done this?
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Old 06-27-2009, 11:37 PM   #35
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Narrowed it down, haven't messed with it much, me n cali will get it figured out tomorrow hopefully!
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