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Old 06-04-2009, 09:38 PM   #1
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Krylon Fusion Paint vs Vinyl Dye Spray

I'm wanting to paint my motard plastics. I've heard one can dye as well as the infamous Krylon fusion stuff. I mean, obviously, paint attaches to the service as opposed to the dye "absorbing" into the plastics. Logic says to dye. Though I'm not too familiar w/ painting; but I can follow a youtube vid/google write-up.

Has anyone dyed plastics? And confirmed suspicions of quality? (At least, rattle-can quality. Heh.)

SMJ has rattle-can WRX's so I've seen results of that. *see below*
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:41 PM   #2
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my cbr is rattle canned


i used dupli color as Hooligans advice


and it came out baller...it doesnt look rattle canned at all


i had very very low expectations when the paint began so i wasnt expecting much, but when it was all said in done i was extremely impressed
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:09 PM   #3
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Never heard of the dye, but the white on my bike is Fusion and it looks perfect.
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:49 PM   #4
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well if you want that paint to last i would do it this way. start with 800 wet. do it try and will make the plastic fuzzy and will show up in the paint when its done. once thats done use wax grease remover. let dry then spray plastic adhesive promoter also known as bulldog. you can get it at most paint stores. pretty inexpensive. then either spray your single stage paint or base/clear.
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:51 AM   #5
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I've seen a TON of rattle can jobs that look GREAT. I have a background in auto body/paint, and have seen it all. The biggest thing to remember about any paint job is to spend a LOT of time on the prep. The paint job will only look as good as the prep work underneath. I am about to repaint my bike and I will have probably 4-5 coats of primer, sanding between each coat. Then 6-8 coats (minimum) of color, wet sanding between every 3rd coat or so. Then 4-5 coats of clear, wet sanded with 2000 and buffed.
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spectre5922 View Post
I've seen a TON of rattle can jobs that look GREAT. I have a background in auto body/paint, and have seen it all. The biggest thing to remember about any paint job is to spend a LOT of time on the prep. The paint job will only look as good as the prep work underneath. I am about to repaint my bike and I will have probably 4-5 coats of primer, sanding between each coat. Then 6-8 coats (minimum) of color, wet sanding between every 3rd coat or so. Then 4-5 coats of clear, wet sanded with 2000 and buffed.

you shoot color for coverage. and depending on the color more coats makes the color darker. not sure why you would wetsand after your 3rd coat of paint unless you got trash in it. there is no need to do so. and clear depending on the paint system max is usually 3. after that it gets to thick and heavy to dry properly. you can do 3 let dry then reapply another 3 if you want a wet look.

but yes its all in the prep work. you cant cover body work with great paint.
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:44 PM   #7
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The reason why all of the wetsanding is because I will be painting in the garage, so I'm sure to get SOME trash in it. Also, the reason for so many coats is because during wetsanding, some of the previous coat will be sanded off. Also, because I am not in a pro booth, the coats will be thinner (to cut back on VOCs floating in my garage and overspray). I have seen custom paintjobs with over 10 coats of clear with periodic wetsanding. The paint looks a mile deep.
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:45 PM   #8
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Vinyl dye did'nt penetrate the plastic when I used it.
I believe it's only made to be used on vinyl.
It scrapes off just like paint when applied to hard rigid plastic.
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spectre5922 View Post
The reason why all of the wetsanding is because I will be painting in the garage, so I'm sure to get SOME trash in it. Also, the reason for so many coats is because during wetsanding, some of the previous coat will be sanded off. Also, because I am not in a pro booth, the coats will be thinner (to cut back on VOCs floating in my garage and overspray). I have seen custom paintjobs with over 10 coats of clear with periodic wetsanding. The paint looks a mile deep.

i know i feel you on painting in the garage. i also use a tack cloth between coats of base to minimize the trash. but ive seen bad show trucks done in garages. like you said prep work. and not just on waht your painting.but making sure you either wet the floor or blow it out really clean.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:03 PM   #10
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you shoot color for coverage. and depending on the color more coats makes the color darker. not sure why you would wetsand after your 3rd coat of paint unless you got trash in it. there is no need to do so. and clear depending on the paint system max is usually 3. after that it gets to thick and heavy to dry properly. you can do 3 let dry then reapply another 3 if you want a wet look.

but yes its all in the prep work. you cant cover body work with great paint.
I have never seen a quality paint get darker with the application of more coats (only a FEW cheap paints). The solids count is much lower in cheaper paint, which CAN make the color darken with more coats. High quality paint with a higher solids count, will get to a certain color level, and then not change no matter how many coats you apply. The House of Kolor rep even suggested to me to use a minimum of 3 to 5 coats on the base color.

I have seen quite a few custom shops that will do up to 10 coats of clear. To get an absolutely flawless, mirror finish, you almost need that much so you don't wet sand through the clear.

That would be true if you weren't wet sanding between every few layers. I'm also not talking about doing the whole paint job in one day.

That's what I was talking about. 3 and 3 would be 6 coats. (See Mom, I CAN add! )

It seems like we're thinking the same, just saying it differently. Trust me..... I've painted my fair share of cars, trucks, big rigs and bikes in my time. I've shot pearls, candies, metallics, single stage, two-stage and three stage paints. I've never had an issue with a paint job, and of the ones that I've seen years later, none have ever had paint issues.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:13 PM   #11
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i know i feel you on painting in the garage. i also use a tack cloth between coats of base to minimize the trash. but ive seen bad show trucks done in garages. like you said prep work. and not just on waht your painting.but making sure you either wet the floor or blow it out really clean.
I will be wetting the floor after blowing it out, putting up plastic (floor to ceiling) to try and keep overspray off of the other things in my garage and putting 2 larger shop fans at the garage door. I ALWAYS use tack cloths! Anyone who doesn't would be a FOOL. It's the cheapest insurance you can buy. By the way, this will be a rattle can job, BUT I am having the local auto paint store custom mix the paint and put it in aerosol cans, OR I'll bite the bullet and buy another DeVilbiss. I already have a 60 gallon compressor, so air flow is not an issue. , I may even go HVLP to help reduce overspray.
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Old 06-05-2009, 11:59 PM   #12
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Vinyl dye did'nt penetrate the plastic when I used it.
I believe it's only made to be used on vinyl.
It scrapes off just like paint when applied to hard rigid plastic.
^Good to know!^

Thansk for the comments everyone.
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Old 06-06-2009, 12:32 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I have never seen a quality paint get darker with the application of more coats (only a FEW cheap paints). .
]

if you do a test panel you can see a slight difference. air pressure, distance to surface, temp all play a part. although very slight it does change. but i can tell you have painted before by the way you talk. i was gonna buy a devilbiss but i found it atomized the paint too much for an oem finish. i went with the satajet 3000 digital.
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:43 AM   #14
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I like the DeVilbiss only because that is what I'm used to. I started out in the auto body thing around 22 years ago. Back then, DeVilbiss and Sharp were the t. I was in the very first class to ever go through the Auto Body course at San Jacinto College's new complex (I originally wanted to be the next Boyd Coddington ). Then, I managed and worked in body shops for several years. I kind of miss it, but I was never fast enough at the bodywork side to make really good money.
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:23 PM   #15
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I like the DeVilbiss only because that is what I'm used to. I started out in the auto body thing around 22 years ago. Back then, DeVilbiss and Sharp were the t. I was in the very first class to ever go through the Auto Body course at San Jacinto College's new complex (I originally wanted to be the next Boyd Coddington ). Then, I managed and worked in body shops for several years. I kind of miss it, but I was never fast enough at the bodywork side to make really good money.

devilbiss are great guns for custom finishes. was loaned one by the rep and man did it shoot great. but is more difficult to match oem finishes because it lays that paint so fine and so smooth. sharp in low end stuff these days but hey if your good you can paint with mud and make it look good. also went to school for this trade and figured out way to late that is was a waste of my time. i learned on a satajet 3000 so i know how you feel.
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