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Old 04-23-2009, 08:20 PM   #1
cbr600F4
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HELP, LOOK!!!

This evening I replaced the clutch lever on my bike because it had broke. I had the crank case cover off and when i was finished installing the new clutch lever i put the crank case cover back on. Everything seemed to be fine the clutch was engaging and it seemed to be fixed. I go to start the bike and the mother effer won't start for nothing. sounds like when you try to start something with the ignition switch off. just cranking and cranking. Is there a sensor i am missing that is causing the bike not to turn over??? also is that sensor on the inside of the crank case for the RPM's? would that cause it not to turn over if it where backwards (which im alomost sure it is not but could be wrong)??? Any help is appriciated. the bike was running just fine before i replace the lever.

Thanks guys/gals!!!
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:21 PM   #2
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is the switch for the clutch lever still hooked up? i dont know about hondas, but on suzuki's you have to have the clutch pulled in for the bike to start. if thats not engaging when you pull the clutch in, then it wont start.
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:22 PM   #3
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engagement lever? like not the one on the handgrip, correct?

There is a switch in the clutch lever but I dont think it needs to be pulled on a Honda. If it does, adjust the lever. Does your rpm move in the tach when you crank?
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:23 PM   #4
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I know what your saying because my buddy has to pull the clutch in to start it. mine is not like tho. or at least it has never been before
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:24 PM   #5
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engagement lever? like not the one on the handgrip, correct?

There is a switch in the clutch lever but I dont think it needs to be pulled on a Honda. If it does, adjust the lever. Does your rpm move in the tach when you crank?
the lever on the inside of the crankcase.

you know i did notice the rpm tack was not moving while cranking...... that wouldn't cause it to not start tho right???
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:26 PM   #6
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correct; if you're use to seeing it jump a little before firing off, and now it isnt.... your rpm is not registering.

All the bike sees is the rpm, then times the ignition for it.... so I'll guess you dont have spark.
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:28 PM   #7
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I thought the clutch lever switch was only for when you tried starting it in gear ? But i don't know much bout big bikes .
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:36 PM   #8
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I thought the clutch lever switch was only for when you tried starting it in gear ? But i don't know much bout big bikes .
All suzukis need the clutch switch engaged whether in neutral or gear; just another of their prefered safety lock outs.
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:37 PM   #9
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correct; if you're use to seeing it jump a little before firing off, and now it isnt.... your rpm is not registering.

All the bike sees is the rpm, then times the ignition for it.... so I'll guess you dont have spark.

oooooh ok that make sense. i must have put the sensor in backwards or upsidedown. thanks man. I think that might correct the problem. i was about to light the bike on fire i have had so many little problems with this bike this year
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:42 PM   #10
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lol.

Maybe someone w specific info on that bike or the design of the rpm snsr can chime in.
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Old 04-25-2009, 05:13 PM   #11
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lol.

Maybe someone w specific info on that bike or the design of the rpm snsr can chime in.

thanks for the help Cali, the sensor was the problem i turned it around and fired right up.
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Old 04-25-2009, 05:18 PM   #12
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got another question for you guys. I put a intergraded tail light on and opted not to put the resistors on it because on the instructions it said if the flashing was to fast then install the resistors. Well it is flashing a bit fast but i really don't mind it at all. the question is will this cause any problems with my electrical system??? I could have sworn i saw the head light turn off while it was idling and of course the head light never turns off only has high and low beam like on all bikes no off/on switch. the bike seems to be running a bit rough as well. not bad just a bit rough at low RPM's could this have anything to do with the tail light i installed???
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Old 04-25-2009, 05:21 PM   #13
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Cali ftw
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:34 PM   #14
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Cali ftw
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:36 PM   #15
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Old 04-26-2009, 12:33 AM   #16
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When the headlight goes out, is it highbeam and lowbeam? Power/ground is constant to the headlight like you mentioned. If they are dual filiment, one filiment can be loose and not creating contact.

Rough running: check the frame and CARB plate. Is it suppose to idle at 1125 or 1250 rpm +/- 50rpm... is it too low? Change the idle. Get it to operating temperature, choke off. Adjust w the idle , rap the engine and recheck. If it continues to run rough, when was the last tune up? Sparkplugs, air filter, fuel stabilizer and a tank of good gas, maybe even cleaning carbs. If the idle slowly fluctuates up/down at idle your carbs may need to be resynced.

The resister adds resistance to the system. Power, ground, load. If you put straight power to ground, something gets smoked. The load determines how much amperage goes through the system(why fuses are different amp ratings, it is a purpose-built week part of the system.) A relay is just a metal wire that heats up when amperage goes through it and the metal flexes, breaking the contact. As it cools it drops back down to heat up again and lose contact... that is the clicking you hear... from the relay. If you take a system that is built to be a certain resistance, and install an LED assembly that requires far less amperage, the relay wont heat up as much and flash quicker. The load is what pulls the amperage, not the other way around; amperage isn't being forced through the LED assembly. You're ok if you can deal with the faster flashing LEDs.

FYI, when a power wire hits a conductive ground, and that pretty one-time smoke comes out of the wire, the wire was the acting load because just like a hair drier, metal creates heat.
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Old 04-26-2009, 12:35 AM   #17
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And you are welcome; Im glad to hear it was something simple(Lord knows I've had my fair share of wasted time, lol)... We're here to help eachother when we can.

My background is in automechanics and Im very strong in electrical, etc. that's why I lurk in the Q/A + Performance sections
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
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When the headlight goes out, is it highbeam and lowbeam? Power/ground is constant to the headlight like you mentioned. If they are dual filiment, one filiment can be loose and not creating contact.

Rough running: check the frame and CARB plate. Is it suppose to idle at 1125 or 1250 rpm +/- 50rpm... is it too low? Change the idle. Get it to operating temperature, choke off. Adjust w the idle , rap the engine and recheck. If it continues to run rough, when was the last tune up? Sparkplugs, air filter, fuel stabilizer and a tank of good gas, maybe even cleaning carbs. If the idle slowly fluctuates up/down at idle your carbs may need to be resynced.

The resister adds resistance to the system. Power, ground, load. If you put straight power to ground, something gets smoked. The load determines how much amperage goes through the system(why fuses are different amp ratings, it is a purpose-built week part of the system.) A relay is just a metal wire that heats up when amperage goes through it and the metal flexes, breaking the contact. As it cools it drops back down to heat up again and lose contact... that is the clicking you hear... from the relay. If you take a system that is built to be a certain resistance, and install an LED assembly that requires far less amperage, the relay wont heat up as much and flash quicker. The load is what pulls the amperage, not the other way around; amperage isn't being forced through the LED assembly. You're ok if you can deal with the faster flashing LEDs.

FYI, when a power wire hits a conductive ground, and that pretty one-time smoke comes out of the wire, the wire was the acting load because just like a hair drier, metal creates heat.
ok sweet so it won't cause any problems just the fast blinking which i can deal with.

as far as the running rough part. the bike should be running great. before the clutch lever broke i took my bike to Motorcycles Unlimited to get the carbs jetted, new plugs, new air filter, new fuel filter so all that should be fine.

i think i will look at the idle, also might add some octane booster to the gas to clean anything that might have gummed up while sitting a few weeks for th clutch lever to get here, and also the high amount of cranking i did on it with no spark while the sensor was backwards. i'm sure alot of gas was pumped into the carb when i was cranking on it to no avail.
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