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Old 02-16-2009, 06:59 PM   #41
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I would think that if the leak was that bad it would be apparent by now. The rad. would be getting low. It should be OK to test if there is still water in the cooling system.
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Old 02-16-2009, 07:00 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave18 View Post
I would think that if the leak was that bad it would be apparent by now. The rad. would be getting low. It should be OK to test if there is still water in the cooling system.
radiator is full, resevior is empty.
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Old 02-16-2009, 07:04 PM   #43
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No telling how much was in there to begin with. A comp. test should be ok
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Old 02-16-2009, 07:12 PM   #44
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Head gaskets are just a pain in the a$$. Nobody likes them....
But be sure to get a good one when you replace it, some have a small metal outline around every hole/bend on it. This will significantly decrease your chances of this happening again.

Or it could be piston rings letting oil by. If you just bought it, maybe it was laid over on its side (for some odd reason) and oil leaked past the piston rings and your just burning the left over. Could possibly be it if you've only ridden like three miles.
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Old 02-16-2009, 07:18 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikes-si View Post
Head gaskets are just a pain in the a$$. Nobody likes them....
But be sure to get a good one when you replace it, some have a small metal outline around every hole/bend on it. This will significantly decrease your chances of this happening again.

Or it could be piston rings letting oil by. If you just bought it, maybe it was laid over on its side (for some odd reason) and oil leaked past the piston rings and your just burning the left over. Could possibly be it if you've only ridden like three miles.
Bike was in an accident, where rider was life flighted. Bike, I am sure, laid on it's side for at least 30 minutes, possibly an hour, until investigation was complete.
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Old 02-16-2009, 07:52 PM   #46
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Quote:
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Definitely not normal. Perhaps for a Honda it's ok.
I take offense to that
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:04 PM   #47
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'Strawberry Milkshake' oil is coolant mixing and homogenizing in the oil. Unless your bike has an alternative bracket where oil/coolant can leak into eachother like a dual oil/coolant radiator its likely a headgasket.

A compression test will check pressures, not integrity of the system. A leak down check puts each cylinder in the ignition cycle(valves closed) and pumped shop air at pressure into the cylinder. If a head is cracked/warped/leaking the air will bubble out of the coolant reservoir. Also check for noise in adjacent cylinders or noise in the oil fill cap.

If it runs just fine(not rough) dont waste your time on the compression test. If it does run rough, do the compression test. If there is a significant difference with the values, put oil in the cylinder of the lower value and retest. The oil will help seal the ring even more to test the piston ring for leakage.

If water is getting into the cylinder it can be damaging the compression since the cylinder walls need to be lubricated w oil.

Fill the coolant reservoir, start the bike, bleed the coolant and run it hot. Turn it off and let the bike get cold. Pull the spark plugs, disconnect the fuel connector(so injectors dont fire) see if you can see water in the cylinders from the coolant pressure building up higher then compression from the cylinders(water enters cylinder head vs compression pushing into cooling system) or start the bike and see if water vapor comes out of the spark plug hole.

That will give you something to do before sending it to Motorcycles Unlimited tomorrow if you're bored, slightly intoxicated and wanna tinker tonight. LOL.
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:06 PM   #48
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BTW, no-load revving is bad for any engine.

especially when cold. the bike will be richer in warm up phases to sustain a smoother idle, higher rpm and sooner warm up.
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:10 PM   #49
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where are you at brotha man?

I'll see if I can make it out to take a look at it...........
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:11 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaligoneTx View Post
'Strawberry Milkshake' oil is coolant mixing and homogenizing in the oil. Unless your bike has an alternative bracket where oil/coolant can leak into eachother like a dual oil/coolant radiator its likely a headgasket.

A compression test will check pressures, not integrity of the system. A leak down check puts each cylinder in the ignition cycle(valves closed) and pumped shop air at pressure into the cylinder. If a head is cracked/warped/leaking the air will bubble out of the coolant reservoir. Also check for noise in adjacent cylinders or noise in the oil fill cap.

If it runs just fine(not rough) dont waste your time on the compression test. If it does run rough, do the compression test. If there is a significant difference with the values, put oil in the cylinder of the lower value and retest. The oil will help seal the ring even more to test the piston ring for leakage.

If water is getting into the cylinder it can be damaging the compression since the cylinder walls need to be lubricated w oil.

Fill the coolant reservoir, start the bike, bleed the coolant and run it hot. Turn it off and let the bike get cold. Pull the spark plugs, disconnect the fuel connector(so injectors dont fire) see if you can see water in the cylinders from the coolant pressure building up higher then compression from the cylinders(water enters cylinder head vs compression pushing into cooling system) or start the bike and see if water vapor comes out of the spark plug hole.

That will give you something to do before sending it to Motorcycles Unlimited tomorrow if you're bored, slightly intoxicated and wanna tinker tonight. LOL.
Holy ! I have a day job! Good info though. Tks for the input Matt.
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:19 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaligoneTx View Post
'Strawberry Milkshake' oil is coolant mixing and homogenizing in the oil. Unless your bike has an alternative bracket where oil/coolant can leak into eachother like a dual oil/coolant radiator its likely a headgasket.
Could be leaking from the water pump. Bad seal.
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Old 02-16-2009, 08:23 PM   #52
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Did you check air filter , the case vent hose connects to the airbox right ? Maybe lift the tank & check that too .
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Old 02-16-2009, 09:20 PM   #53
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Brandt,
After you changed the oil, did it turn milky again?

Does it smoke once the temp reaches 180 or so?

Is the airbox clean and not full of oil?

Condition of the air filter?

Is the oil over full?
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Old 02-16-2009, 10:06 PM   #54
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check airbox first make sure its clean no oil,it can get there by the oil level being too high,if okay you will need a leak down tester & the experience of a good mechanic ,from what you are saying it smokes less after it warms up is a good indication it needs valve seals ,but like i said need someone who knows engines and how to use a leakdown tester.
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:02 PM   #55
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Ill do what I can tomorrow and be in touch with you Patrick.

Thanks everyone for all the input. Ill start with the things I can handle.
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:15 PM   #56
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:52 PM   #57
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Air filter is clean, suprisingly. Air box is free of oil. Only moderately dusty.
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:43 AM   #58
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OK, first off, do your testing at full operating temp once the pistons have expanded and sealed the rings well, also the ECU is not running in cold enrichment mode. Second, here is a short lesson on smoke:

white= coolant/water(heavy clouds)
blue-ish/grey= oil(heavy clouds)
black/dirty brownish= fuel (light whispy, fast disappearing clouds)

It appears to be smoking on decel, definetly looks like oil but does get a white puff at the end, thats weird.

What I would do....
1)Change the oil/filter first, get to proper operating temp and do your test again. Watch oil and see if it gets milky again. If not, go to next step.

2) Check your PAIR valve on the valve cover and make sure oil is not leaking through the reeds into the exhaust port(not likely but does happen) also plug the vacuum hose to the PAIR valve if it has one making it inoperable. Sometimes these PAIR valves will suck oil vapors(and more) in from the head or crank case and pump it into the exhaust.

3)Compression or Leak down test, but odds are, its going to test fine because the oil rings have nothing to do with holding cylinder pressure but still a good test to see if its a head gasket problem(which I don't think it is). Check the plugs to make sure they are burning even and clean.

If all that tests well, I would keep an eye on the oil quality to make sure its not getting milky, if its staying clean, then just ride the and keep the maintenance up.

BTW I have been ALL through this exact problem on my 01 1000. It started doing this at around 4k, or at least thats when I notice it, it smokes on decel under free revving.....never when going down the road, only when idling and give it a blip. I went through everything trying to find it, never found a problem. I have been riding it ever since....Now it has 11k miles on it and still hauls , doesn't noticeably use oil between changes. I am gonna continue to ride it until a large problem shows up but...my gut is its a bad oil seal or something stupid, although all of the plugs burn clean, all the exhaust ports are evenly colored and I find it hard to believe that all the oil seals are bad all of the sudden. I do make a point to not rev it in neutral or with the clutch in as to not aggravate the problem.

I took video of mine doing this as well, mine was the worst once it would idle for about 30 seconds, then blip the throttle, it would huff on decel....if I continued to blip/rev it, it wouldn't smoke, but after idling a while, it would, that led me to believe its oil seals and oil seeping by at low engine speed. I chased this for a month.

Now I just ride it....it still rips and doesn't smoke when on the gas so.... F' it... ride the like its stolen...
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:52 AM   #59
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it's Fu(ked.

you should just give it to me
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:46 PM   #60
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Bike is being looked at and all test being ran. I should know something tomorrow.
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