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Old 01-03-2009, 12:11 AM   #1
loosenoose
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why wont my bike keep a charge?

my battery is not very old. about 1 year or so. i think my charging system is broken?..? how would this be reliably diagnosed and would a repair likely be easy enough for me to do it?

edit:
i dont want to go run out and buy a new battery just yet.

Last edited by loosenoose; 01-03-2009 at 12:12 AM. Reason: edit to edit to edit
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:13 AM   #2
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voltmeter +repair manual
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:18 AM   #3
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i don't think so
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:27 AM   #4
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+1 voltmeter.
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:43 AM   #5
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cool, good deal. i'll have to give this a try on sunday.

now if the charging system is not working, what can be done to fix it?
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:50 AM   #6
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it could be a fuse.

or it could need a new stator.
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:59 AM   #7
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the easiest test is put a voltmeter on the battery when the bike is not running, then again when running and again at 5k rpm (stationary of course). See what the voltage is at all three points.

Using some arbitrary numbers...if the battery is 13 volts when no load is on the bike and 13.2 volts at idle and closer to 14 volts at high rpm you are probably ok. If the voltage does not get that high its often the stator. If you have a service manual you can also test the rectifier/regulator as well as the stator.

If you need help let me know, I do not start with HFD until the 12th.
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v4lu3s View Post
the easiest test is put a voltmeter on the battery when the bike is not running, then again when running and again at 5k rpm (stationary of course). See what the voltage is at all three points.

Using some arbitrary numbers...if the battery is 13 volts when no load is on the bike and 13.2 volts at idle and closer to 14 volts at high rpm you are probably ok. If the voltage does not get that high its often the stator. If you have a service manual you can also test the rectifier/regulator as well as the stator.

If you need help let me know, I do not start with HFD until the 12th.
a +1 on my quote would have worked .
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:01 AM   #9
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because you broke it...duh!
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANTISOCIAL View Post
a +1 on my quote would have worked .
lol yeah it would but he is almost a neighbor to me! Plus if i ever end up in county it helps to have a guard owe me one!
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:19 AM   #11
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some bikes WILL NOT RUN if the battery cable(s) are diconnected regardless of the state of the charging system! use a volt meter check if your at 12 volts or so when not running then between 14.2 and 14.5 at about 4 to 5 thousand rpm and if not then check your stator, check for equal continuity and that you have unlimited resistance to ground with the motor off and the cable un plugged, if all of these are ok the let me know for further instructions on how th check you rectifier
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:22 AM   #12
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& there ya go /
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:23 AM   #13
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As mentioned above, I just jump start the bike. Most bikes will charge just enough when idling to keep it going.

DVOM is the best way to check the system, again as mentioned above.

To check the stator wet(while running) check each of the three inputs to the rectifier w AC. If there's a continual problem, check the power/ground to the rectifier itself.

Voltage drop can also be a good tool when checking for high resistance across the terminals and cables. Voltage drop should always be below .2 volts when putting one pin on the terminal, the other on the cable.


I use an amp clamp to verify no draws with the key off(but I have those tools for work and dont expect peeps to carry that stuff in their garage lol)
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:26 AM   #14
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LMAO Cali I have 3 different meters and a meggar too so ppppffffffttttttt
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Old 01-03-2009, 02:06 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaligoneTx View Post
As mentioned above, I just jump start the bike. Most bikes will charge just enough when idling to keep it going.

DVOM is the best way to check the system, again as mentioned above.

To check the stator wet(while running) check each of the three inputs to the rectifier w AC. If there's a continual problem, check the power/ground to the rectifier itself.

Voltage drop can also be a good tool when checking for high resistance across the terminals and cables. Voltage drop should always be below .2 volts when putting one pin on the terminal, the other on the cable.


I use an amp clamp to verify no draws with the key off(but I have those tools for work and dont expect peeps to carry that stuff in their garage lol)
At the the shop our voltmeter can do draw also....
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Old 01-03-2009, 02:14 AM   #16
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I have a solaris.... four channel color scope.

2 DVOMs, a boremeter and 50k in tools total(with the box)


but that's my profession and I have maybe a screw driver at home lol
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Old 01-03-2009, 02:16 AM   #17
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I dont get it was I supposed to be impressed.... I have a wrench set, air compressor, scredriver set( missing the stubby philip) and some other basic tools, solaris is bad though.....
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Old 01-03-2009, 02:17 AM   #18
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thats how they make the big bucks..............talkin all complicated & stuff
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Old 01-03-2009, 02:19 AM   #19
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caligone has a badass oscilloscope. i just got my ebay knock off voltmeter.
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Old 01-03-2009, 02:20 AM   #20
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Hey does it work? then its all good.
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