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Old 01-03-2009, 04:59 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForgottnSoul View Post
Maybe im wrong butwith the new exhaust and now remap wouldnt he be running lean not rich?

Yes, his is lean, not rich..... He will be putting exhaust valves in it in a couple months after he melts his.....

Go into the power commander software, go into the 0% TP column and add "10" or "15" if it has "0"s in it now. Add this fuel from 500 rpms all the way till the end of the map, ONLY in the 0% TP column. Popping should go away.

If you really are getting flames from unburnt fuel in the chamber/exhaust, you have other issues.......

Anytime you slam a throttle shut, the mixture goes lean to a degree, even a correctly tuned bike will see 15-16 to 1 AFR on decel....any leaner then that and its gonna pop or flame blue.

PCIII and dyno tune will cure all your problems.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:10 PM   #42
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Hey I uh... agreed with that statement.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:12 PM   #43
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Also everybody keeps saying dynotune according to the mighty Patrick there is no reason in the world it would need it until there is many more mods, of a more serious degree.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:29 PM   #44
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Also everybody keeps saying dynotune according to the mighty Patrick there is no reason in the world it would need it until there is many more mods, of a more serious degree.
Without a dyno with a wideband oxygen sensor, you have no idea what the AFR(air fuel ratio) is. That is one of the key factors in a correct tune. Patrick is correct in the fact that MOST late model sportbikes don't need tuning work if the mods are minor, aka. slip on, air filter etc. Most of them run pretty rich from the factory(to keep them living long and happy lives after countless miles of abuse) and adding slip ons etc will only lean it out a slight amount, sometimes thats how you gain 2-3hp from the slip on...its not really from the slip on itself, its from the leaner fuel mix.

Eitherway though, once you get into adding full systems, they "usually" need to be tuned. My old 1000 did run pretty good with a full akro and the stock ECU tuning before I put the PCIII and dyno-tuned it but every bike is different, some are leaner, some are richer from the factory. Your best bet is to tune it. You will gain some decent power at all ranges, smooth out the throttle transitions and know it will be safe.

I do not believe in "pre-made" maps.....different bikes, different altitudes, different tuner theories etc... Usually pre-made maps(like the ones one Dynojets site) make bikes run worse, not better then nothing at all.

Spend the $250 and get it tuned if you have a full system.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:32 PM   #45
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This on the R6 or the Honda? If its the R6, go to Grave's Yamaha's website, you can download a "decent" map from them. They are builders/racers, their maps are usually pig rich but it might help stop the popping if you don't want to mess with it yourself.

On the honda, you will probably have to have it tuned.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:45 PM   #46
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running rich.

maybe more restriction?

clean your air filter.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:47 PM   #47
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The R6, the honda ugh... just a big mess had ordered a "racing head" and web cam's and I really dont want to put the dam bike back together its been a couple months since I broke it down.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:48 PM   #48
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So your saying put graves pre map instead of the micron full map and I 100% agree with EVERY bike needs its own tune just if im fine with clicking full micron exhaust then I wouldnt mind just doing that, but also thats a cheap dyno tune 250$ aint bad.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:50 PM   #49
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And you cant adjust the dynojet yourself?
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Old 01-09-2009, 07:40 PM   #50
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just got my dynojet in seems alot smoother but still pops, Also are HH rated pads to aggressive for street riding just ordered rear and front lines from galfer and all the pads do are brag about racing this bike is a commuter also though.
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Last edited by ddgtomahawk; 01-09-2009 at 07:43 PM.
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