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Old 12-29-2008, 03:44 PM   #41
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This thread fails until Patrick or another one of our MH shop owners comes in here and tells you all what is right. They see many more bikes and therefore see a lot more situations then we do with just our personal bikes. I have a feeling I know what he is going to say too.
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:44 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slocbr View Post
http://www.didchain.com/xring1.htm

i see here where DID explains the purpose of their x-ring chains. says something about keeping grease in and dirt out. find me something that explains the purpose of lubing a "maintenance free" chain. im lost...
educate yourself
http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/moto...mc_chains.html
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:48 PM   #43
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:50 PM   #44
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:50 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyrofallout View Post
This thread fails until Patrick or another one of our MH shop owners comes in here and tells you all what is right. They see many more bikes and therefore see a lot more situations then we do with just our personal bikes. I have a feeling I know what he is going to say too.
I ran my own business for 15 years back home.
I don't need Patrick or any shop owner to tell me how to lube a chain.
Although I'm 100% sure his answer will be the same as mine
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:55 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by 1slocbr View Post
did you actually take the time and educate yourself first. it says basically what i have been saying all along.

Old time chains were simply open-ended roller bearings and you had to lubricate them exceedingly well to keep them from wearing the bearings down too fast (usually by immersing them in oil every several hundred miles). Newer chains employ a sealed lubricant inside the chain roller mechanism, and then maintain the seal on the lubricant reserve using a rubber (usually a synthetic rubber-substitute like NBR) sealing ring of some sort. These chains are broken down by the shape of the seal they use to seal in the lubricant. The typical method is a sealant ring shaped like a big "O", and those kinds of chains are called o-ring chains. Alternatively, some manufacturers have designed sealant rings shaped like an "X", a "W", a "Z" and a variety of other shapes to help promote a long seal life (and avoid possible patent infringement upon others).
how about:
Please note that simply because you are using a sealed-link chain does not mean you do not need to lubricate it. Lube your chains!

Quote:
Loss of Seal Integrity:
The seal(s) retaining the lubrication for one or more rollers fails. Typical causes include: abrasion (such as sand rubbing between the seal and one of the plates); friction (heat generated by inadequate lubrication external to the seals as the plates rub against them); weathering and age (seal dries out, cracks), or other stresses (such as chemical exposure to naphtha or other harsh chemicals). The primary way to keep this kind of failure from occurring is to keep the chain (and thus the seals) free of sand, dirt and other contaminants via regular cleaning, and to keep it lubricated appropriately externally as well (to minimize the friction at the seal/plate interface, and to help keep the seals in good shape).
Although it is also possible for the sealed lubricant to leak out at another place (such as if the roller surface detaches from the inner plate), this kind of failure is much rarer.
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:00 PM   #47
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:06 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slocbr View Post
like i said, "abrasion (such as sand rubbing between the seal and one of the plates);"

what is your source for this info? please post a link.

I posted the link already Mr Selective Reading

let's talk about your avatar instaed
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:09 PM   #49
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Consider that the chain lube manufacturers want to sell you lube and that the chain mfrs will tell you to lube them so they are not liable for wear, rust or breakage. They will say, "Well, this was caused by improper maintenance" to avoid at least a portion of warranty claims.
It is profits for one and protection for the other.

Let me reverse the dicussion a little bit...

If lubing a chain is so critically important, then why do mine last as long as a friend who cleans and lubes his religiously?
Because it's not that important.

Keep them clean with WD40 and the light film of residual oil will prevent rust, which is the main thing you "lubers" accomplish.
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:20 PM   #50
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:22 PM   #51
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Quote:
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:23 PM   #52
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Consider that the chain lube manufacturers want to sell you lube and that the chain mfrs will tell you to lube them so they are not liable for wear, rust or breakage. They will say, "Well, this was caused by improper maintenance" to avoid at least a portion of warranty claims.
It is profits for one and protection for the other.

Let me reverse the dicussion a little bit...

If lubing a chain is so critically important, then why do mine last as long as a friend who cleans and lubes his religiously?
Because it's not that important.

Keep them clean with WD40 and the light film of residual oil will prevent rust, which is the main thing you "lubers" accomplish.
I know of a GSXR750WX back home that has done approx 30,000 road and track miles on the same sump of oil with no "obviouse" problems.
Does that make it right????

WD 40 residue will evaporate just about the first time the chain gets warm but if it works for you..............................

some say if it ain't broke don't fix it,
I subscribe to prevention is better than the cure
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:25 PM   #53
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:29 PM   #54
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:31 PM   #55
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:15 PM   #56
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:31 PM   #57
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:40 PM   #58
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wow ok.

Talk to Motorcycles Unlimited or another one of our sponsors in your area. Patrick and his guys will be happy to demonstrate proper chain maintenance to prolong the life of the chain... yes I said it for the comments earlier about chains lasting the same amount of time.

spray wd40 into a rag, not directly and clean off all the grime that the grease has picked up from the road; the sprockes and on the chain. Now the chain is exposed and needs to be protected form rusting; white grease-based o-ring aerosal lubricant is my recommendation, which I picked up form Motorcycles Unlimited. I have used oils before, but this stuff will quiet the chain down to nothing and lubricate very well w less spray off while riding.

Spray the inside of the chain well(centrifical force will spread the grease through the chain as it spins. Finish with spraying both sides of the chain and the outside. Lightly wipe off clumps, ride and enjoy. Just in spinning the chain from using the wd40 to the o-ring grease you will notice a reduction in noise.

I dont remember the came of the grease, but Im on my second can and usually clean my chain every 600 miles or so. I park my bikes outside; other then a cover they are exposed to all elements.
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Old 12-29-2008, 11:06 PM   #59
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Quote:
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and wd-40? isnt that water based? and that stuff is light and would sling all over the bike... hmmm... still clueless on the lube thing guys
No it is NOT water based.
Spray on then wipe off excess, it just leaves a film behind that will protect from rust.
Has to be done fairly often, to reapply film and keep chain clean.
Don't forget to clean the sprockets as well, much sprocket wear happens because the crud that builds up where the chain rides isn't cleaned.
Honestly you can't go wrong either way. Use a good lube or do like I suggest.
The main thing is keep it clean, protected from rust and adjusted properly.
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Old 12-29-2008, 11:16 PM   #60
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Regardless of the definitions earlier, I have seen and experienced problems w WD40 and rubber. It is a lubricant that remains a film not drying up too quickly, which acts as a buffer to rust build up.

For myself, using the products that are designed for it leads me to the chain grease. But my experience is w OEM; I see customers all the time trying to make their cars faster w very expensive upgrades. I keep an article in my toolbox of the Car and Driver report of the stock M3 and the Dinan M3 with an additional 45k on it(suspension, wheels, brakes, supercharger, short shifter, cold air, programming.) In all the tests the vehicles were about even. Even one quarter mile(same driver) the stock one ran quicker then the supercharged car. The biggest debate was how much the modified car walked around on a normal street and didn't feel secure.

To each their own; I learned my mistake once and will follow Motorcycles Unlimited's advice when it comes to bikes since that's their professionalism. Now if someone knows how to repair my body from all these injuries, I will definitely follow that lead lol
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