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Old 12-14-2008, 04:43 PM   #1
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Re-threading hole

Ok so heres the deal. on my R6 i was taking off my frame sliders to put my street fairings back on (which dont have cut outs for the sliders yet and will be in my plans now when i get this fixed) so anyway the bolt for the frame slider is also one that holds the engine in place. And the threads are destroyed so i was looking at getting a Helicoil kit to replace the threads. WELL seems this kit cost 70 bucks and was hard as to find on the internet being a M12 1.25 thread kit #7756-12. so i am going to try and just use a Standard 1/2'' thread kit with a fine thread (20) instead of 13 that they had at Ace hardware. Anyone done this before? im thinking in gonna have a of a time reaching in there without taking the bike apart. And does anyone know of any strength issues changing threads or with helicoils?

im just worried that this bolt holds a lot in place and without it or with it weak that it might result in more trouble.i just dont know how many mounting points are on the bike for the engine. any input/advise would be welcomed
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:55 PM   #2
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someone told me a trick to rethreading once.

lightly grease the bolt itself and then put some jb weld onto it. screw it into the head and let it set, then back out the bolt. theoretically it should rethread the head for you. anyone ever try that?
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:08 PM   #3
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Since the threads are gone, have you considered a longer bolt with a nut and washer? Helicoils suck, especially in a thru hole cause there's nothing to keep it in place.

If I had to rethread I would definitely go with a coarse thread over fine in aluminum. Less chance of stripping them again.
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:14 PM   #4
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When two parts are bolted together only one of them is threaded for a reason. That is so that they pull together tightly. Unless you pull the engine, you shouldn't go oversize because you will be threading both parts. The bolt will pull tight on the outer part and the one behind will just be sitting on the threads. Over time, vibration will destroy the threads again.

I wouldn't consider JB Weld and option for a motor mount, especially if it is holding the frame slider too.
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:18 PM   #5
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If U wanna bring it to me I will handle it, should be an easy fix, providing U or someone else dont fuc it up first, let a pro fix it right the first time and forget about it
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYIN'DUC View Post
If U wanna bring it to me I will handle it, should be an easy fix, providing U or someone else dont fuc it up first, let a pro fix it right the first time and forget about it

I might be up to lettin u check it out but cleveland is super far for me. on a non streetlegal bike at the moment and i have no trailer. i got experience with cars worked on em for a while and bikes just recently. im just not a pro on retapping or repairing threads. i know some of you have more experience than i do.


also i dont wanna use a bolt with a nut because on the back side where the nut would go, its not a flat surface theres a curve. i could try running a tap thru there to get to the back threads maybe and use a lot longer bolt. just right now the bolt wont catch any threads.
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Old 12-18-2008, 08:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navigator View Post
Helicoils suck.

Obviously you don't know how to use them. Ive used them countless times and never had an issue when drilled and tapped correctly.
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Old 12-19-2008, 01:07 AM   #8
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helicoil all the way I am a machinest and use them on occasion just don't drill all the way thru the engine mount it has to bottom out and then put you snap ring in
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Old 01-15-2009, 04:03 PM   #9
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Get the heli coil insert but not the set. Find out what tap you need for the insert and buy the proper tap/drill for it seperately. That will save you tons. Heli coils work awesome.

If u need to drop the motor to drill and tap do it. Don't risk drilling the hole skewed. The jb weld is not a good idea!
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