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Old 12-10-2008, 11:06 AM   #21
rc51eviltwin
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Quote:
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I think that's the SuperBlue fluid. I get it for free when I buy the racing brake part for the porsches. I just never use it, so I had built up a bit of an inventory.
IDK
what he mentioned had a metal cap but still it might be the same with new cap i guess


here is the next interesting question.

how many of ya use the fluid after opening it once,putting it away(a few weeks/days) and then using the left over fluid?

the motorex5.1 comes in such a quantity that its only enough for a full flush and the rest is not worth even keeping.
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:21 AM   #22
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I wonder how well the stock brembo master cylinder on a R1 compares. Anybody ever try to use one on another bike? I know it is nowhere near as good as these, but it might be better and cheaper.


These guys seem to have a pretty good price.

http://www.hardracing.com/Brembo/BremboMC.htm
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:28 AM   #23
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There is an issue with keeping open containers of brake fluid around. By open, I mean non-sealed, i.e. the cap has been removed, internal seal broken and then cap is replaced and the container is put on a shelf. Most brake fluid is highly hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water very quickly and effectively. The moisture content in brake fluid is the major contributor to brake fade. As the brake fluid temperature rises, eventually it hits a point where it boils, typically next to the brake caliper piston. This changes the brake fluid from a non-compressible liquid, to a highly compressible gas. The moisture content in the fluid exacerbates this problem, lowering the boiling temp of the fluid.

Some brake fluids are more non-hygroscopic than others. Castrol SRF, the fluid I use, is reportedly one of the least hygroscopic.

Brake fluid manufactures provide rating for dry boiling point and wet boiling point. The dry boiling point is for fluid that has not been exposed to moisture. The wet boiling point is for fluid that has been fully saturated with moisture.

ATE Super Blue is rated at 536 dry boiling point and 396 wet boiling point.
Brembo LCF 600 is 601/399
Motul 600 is 593/420
Castrol SRF is 590/518

BTW, Castrol SRF cannot be mixed with other brake fluids. You must start with a full flush and then stick with SRF for any brake fluid additions.

Last edited by maxgs; 12-10-2008 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:37 AM   #24
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Motorex 5.1 appears to be 509/350. There are better brake fluids for racing applications.
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:05 PM   #25
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Castrol is indeed very good, but do U really need the high dollar stuff, btw I bought brembo radial clutch and brake masters off of a 1098, they are verrry good
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:11 PM   #26
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:16 PM   #27
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Castrol is indeed very good, but do U really need the high dollar stuff, btw I bought brembo radial clutch and brake masters off of a 1098, they are verrry good
http://www.motohouston.com/forums/sh...ht=castrol+srf
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:17 PM   #28
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Castrol is indeed very good, but do U really need the high dollar stuff, btw I bought brembo radial clutch and brake masters off of a 1098, they are verrry good
That's a reasonable question. When I was racing the viper, i needed the good stuff as the viper brakes were sub par for a car that weighed 3,300 lbs. Since I have several sealed containers left, it's being put to good use!
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:20 PM   #29
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Is this upgrade superstock legal?
Its not like your bike's legal anyways foo!

Put it on
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Old 12-10-2008, 01:49 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Richards View Post
I wonder how well the stock brembo master cylinder on a R1 compares. Anybody ever try to use one on another bike? I know it is nowhere near as good as these, but it might be better and cheaper.


These guys seem to have a pretty good price.

http://www.hardracing.com/Brembo/BremboMC.htm
you can swap master cylinders, but ultimately the aftermarket version will always be better than OEM. since OEM builds are generally to "save money", they generally make them one step down to accomodate production prices.
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Old 12-10-2008, 01:56 PM   #31
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Quote:
Mr Richards
I wonder how well the stock brembo master cylinder on a R1 compares. Anybody ever try to use one on another bike? I know it is nowhere near as good as these, but it might be better and cheaper.
as stated above ,i did use the one off of a KTM suoerduke and worked really well for me.i believe it to be the same as the one for the R1.i actually swapped levers between my superduke and my R1,s brake masters.the plunger is different though.
no it was not any cheaper but the dealer had a new one the they hooked me with for cheap,$200 OTD.($320 MSR)
i also agree with blackwidow,but what i got is good 'nuff for me.very solid i cant imagine it any better.
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Old 12-10-2008, 02:02 PM   #32
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Quote:
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That's a reasonable question. When I was racing the viper, i needed the good stuff as the viper brakes were sub par for a car that weighed 3,300 lbs. Since I have several sealed containers left, it's being put to good use!
Curt I agree completely the Vipers would have huge brake fade, during track use, wasent a real problem on the street, but as soon as U started running them hard especially like at TWS (Texas World Speedway) they would go away quick, great brakes and awesome cars but a little heavy trying to slow for turn 1 huh from tripple diget speeds
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Old 12-10-2008, 02:08 PM   #33
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Curt I agree completely the Vipers would have huge brake fade, during track use, wasent a real problem on the street, but as soon as U started running them hard especially like at TWS (Texas World Speedway) they would go away quick, great brakes and awesome cars but a little heavy trying to slow for turn 1 huh from tripple diget speeds
I was so slow driving the viper at TWS (Texas World Speedway), it was embarrassing. I had motor work, koni 2812 shocks with the gtr-s suspension, exhaust, flywheel, and I ran hoosier tires and racing brake pads. I still remember my first track weekend, 2:12's at the end of it. And I thought I was moving. Several years later, and many thousands of track miles, I ran a 1:58 in a stock viper with street tires just putzing around in a students car.

That drove home the old adage.... work on the driver, not the car.
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Old 12-10-2008, 02:18 PM   #34
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I was so slow driving the viper at TWS (Texas World Speedway), it was embarrassing. I had motor work, koni 2812 shocks with the gtr-s suspension, exhaust, flywheel, and I ran hoosier tires and racing brake pads. I still remember my first track weekend, 2:12's at the end of it. And I thought I was moving. Several years later, and many thousands of track miles, I ran a 1:58 in a stock viper with street tires just putzing around in a students car.

That drove home the old adage.... work on the driver, not the car.
Yea right
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Old 12-10-2008, 02:28 PM   #35
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Its not like your bike's legal anyways foo!

Put it on

Now it is bought a set of stock wheels. I am superstock legal when I put those on.
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