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Old 12-04-2008, 03:25 AM   #1
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Busted calipers????

Is there anyway to check if the calipers are good? As some remember my bike fell out of my truck on labor day, and the brakes would not hold pressure. Well i thought it was the master cylinder because the honda shop said so lol but I think they were wrong because I bought the Brembo 19 rcs master cylinder, and galfer ss brake lines. Yet im still running into the same problem if i pump the brakes they gain pressure but shortly after they lose pressure. I just noticed when i was bleeding the lines the left caliper makes a squish sound but does not leak so i think my problem is there but im not sure what to do to fix it.
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Old 12-04-2008, 03:48 AM   #2
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Also just read that if the rotors are bent it could cause the same problem i noticed theres a small scratch on the right rotor but it looks straight, anyone hear of this?
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Old 12-04-2008, 04:43 AM   #3
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Try bleeding them again. If the caliper seals are bad they would be leaking fluid.
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Old 12-04-2008, 04:49 AM   #4
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Ive ran through 2 full cups of brake fluid bleeding them, doesnt help. There are no bubbles in the fluid at all
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:57 AM   #5
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You need to work less on bleeding out the caliper, and work more on tapping the lines while orienting them to bleed air UP and out of the system. Just leaning the bike over to the left while tapping the master cylinder and top of the line can get out enough air to solve the problem you describe. If you don't see obvious fluid ozzing somewhere, it's not leaking.

Also, check to see that your lever travel always allows the piton in the master to return to a position where it can pull in fresh fluid from the resevoir, but since you are going thru fluid when bleeding it is probably not the problem.

My money is on air trapped in the upper part of the system. You can do a quick check by loosening the banjo bolt at the line going into the master, while holding slight lever pressure, and if you see bubs you got air in there.

Dropping it over rarely makes for brake trouble. Never seen it at the track even with high speed crashes and rolls.
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:38 AM   #6
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Ok the lines held pressure over night did not lose any pressure still felt tight, but as soon as i turned the front wheel a full revolution I pulled the lever and wham straight back to the grip she went. Im gonna read up on the warped rotor cause i think mine is bent or warped just not sure which one or how to tell
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:04 AM   #7
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definatly warped rotor. The pads "float" on the rotor and if its bent, they get pushed up or out when a higspot goes by but then when its time to brake there is all that distance between the pad and rotor (5 mm is alot in brake movement).

Same exact thing as when you change pads on a car and have to pump the brakes first to get the pads against the rotor again.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:22 AM   #8
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How can I tell which rotor is bad or do i need to just replace both of them? I saw on 600rr.net several people have problems similar and they sent the rotor off for 15 bux and had it repaired. Is it safe to have the rotor repaired or is it safer to just replace it.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyt915 View Post
How can I tell which rotor is bad or do i need to just replace both of them? I saw on 600rr.net several people have problems similar and they sent the rotor off for 15 bux and had it repaired. Is it safe to have the rotor repaired or is it safer to just replace it.
I think it depends on how bad it is warped/bent. MC rotors are much thinner than those of a car and very little tolerance is allowed for recutting/re-surfacing I believe.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:29 AM   #10
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warpped rotor. take one caliper off put something between the pads to simulate the rotor, piece of metal plate or what ever you have the is hard and fits in there. Pump the brakes up, spin the wheel, pump the brakes again, if they are tight on the first pump the rotor on the side you took the caliper off is bad, do the same thing for the other side to check the other rotor to make sure it is straight.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:35 AM   #11
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another way is to simply hold something against the fork or somewhere so that you can hold it steady, then put the tip of it near or touching the rotor, spin the wheel and see if the distance between what you are holding and the rotor changes.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:38 AM   #12
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second option sounds much easier.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:49 AM   #13
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LOL, it is, and that is what I would have done and have done in the past, but for some odd reason I came up with that difficult way of doing it, and could not edit my post.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:55 AM   #14
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So what would you recommend to do with the bad rotor? replace ore repair
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:54 PM   #15
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new are going to be expensive, does ebay have them? how much vs how much to repair, how long will it take to get it fixed or replaced.

have you seen how bent it is yet? If its only bent in one direction and by not much you can do it yourself.

See where it is bent and hit it with a dead blow to bend it back in, if it needs to be bent out then stick a piece of wood through from the otherside and hit it. Hit softly and work you way up depending on how much it takes to bend it back. You can't hurt it, its already bent. After each blow of the hammer check your progress, when its straight you done. No need to remove the wheel, would help if someone holds the bars and bike for you.

Do not strike the rotor directly with a metal hammer, use a dead blow or a piece of wood.
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:59 PM   #16
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not sure if i feel comfortable beating on it, also dont have a deadblow hammer. Can anyone help me?
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:59 PM   #17
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inspect the rotor when you done, if its floating make sure there is no excessive play and it is still in good condition.
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Old 12-04-2008, 01:03 PM   #18
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never will understand why people are scared to work on things that are already broke. If nothing else you will learn something.

if you it up even more, nothing lost

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