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Old 10-26-2008, 10:34 AM   #1
Empty_Set
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On a scale from one to ten? (broken bolt)

How much will it suck to get this out?

l 45e3c4d6e5124f0a9680a78998b75224

There I was, riding around Grandsport Speedway, when an instructor gets in front of me and taps his tail. I thought for sure he was going to show me all those lines Ive been blowing.

When he heads for pit out I start thinking, am I really blowing them that much? No, he tells me that there are parts flying off my bike. My frame slider in particular. As I look down, evidently, yes, my frame slider has decided to exit the vehicle.

I am quite befuddled, I swear I really tightened that bolt, and the instructor was a bit annoyed that it wasn't caught during tech inspection. But, as I went to take a closer look, ! The bolt snapped clean off. Weird. They were actually new frame sliders (with new bolts), no reason why it should have done that.

In any case, this post wasn't meant to merely convey an interesting story. I am not so confident in my ability to take this bolt out (although I have done smaller ones). Anybody know of a good shop, close to downtown, that may be able to handle something of this nature?
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:42 AM   #2
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try same's cycles. they are really close to downtown. i can't come up with a link to the site. member romeo36 works there so maybe pm him.
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:48 AM   #3
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one being easy, ten being a nightmare...

for me, it would be a ten, but for Motorcycles Unlimited or Tim over at Ellis Performance (these guys do this regularly) I'm sure it would be on the other end of the spectrum.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:00 AM   #4
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all you gotta do is drill the ho out
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:03 AM   #5
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:04 AM   #6
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I would say drill a hole, then use a reverse tap (CCW is going in) to get the threads started.
Then as you screw in the right size bolt (in a reverse motion of course) as soon as it bottoms out, you will now be "unscrewing" what's left of the old bolt using the new bolt head.
Make sure the new bolt is big enough to handle the torque needed to remove the old bolt. An allen head bolt works best for this application.

We do this sometimes at work.
See this thread...
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...oken-bolt.html

bolts
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:11 AM   #7
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Copied this from the other site. They explain it better than I did. Good luck.

"Other option is to purchase a tap having "reverse" threads along with suitable drill and a bolt having similar "reverse" threads. Drill a hole in the broken bolt and cut the thread using the tap. Tighten the bolt having reverse threads. The bolt with reverse thread will get tightened by rotating it anti clockwise. Once it becomes fully tightened, the broken bolt will loosen and also start to rotate anti clockwise."
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:16 AM   #8
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If you are inexperienced at bolt removal you you seriously consider having it done. You wouldn't wanna screw that up.
On the other hand it aint rocket science. You will need the right tools and some patience. Go slow and remember that the drill is going to try to drill the soft metal that surrounds the screw. Keep it centered.
When you start to remove the bolt turn slowly, feel your way along. Better to get it on the first try than to have to start over. You may need to carefully apply heat to the surrounding metal.
If you use heat, be ready to work a little more quickly so the the bolt doesn't start to expand too.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee View Post
If you are inexperienced at bolt removal you you seriously consider having it done. You wouldn't wanna screw that up.
On the other hand it aint rocket science. You will need the right tools and some patience. Go slow and remember that the drill is going to try to drill the soft metal that surrounds the screw. Keep it centered.
consider tapping a punch in the center of the bolt, this will help you keep the drill bit centered as it'll want to move around once it starts rotating. but like bumblebee said, if you are inexperienced you may want to pay someone to remove it...a simple $30 fix to have it removed is way better then messing up the original threads and creating a massive headache.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:39 AM   #10
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If it'd be only 30 bucks to get it done, I'd rather do that. I have things to do, beers to drink. I thankfully have a drill that turns both ways, but I would need to get the appropriate drill bits ($$$?).
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:40 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Empty_Set View Post
If it'd be only 30 bucks to get it done, I'd rather do that. I have things to do, beers to drink. I thankfully have a drill that turns both ways, but I would need to get the appropriate drill bits ($$$?).
don't quote me on that price, but I do not think it'll cost that much.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:53 AM   #12
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If you do this yourself, DO NOT use the drill to remove the snapped off bolt. Yes, center tap the bolt and slowly drill it out. You don't want to go off center because you can mess up the threads of the hole it goes into and if it's off center your force removing the bolt will be less efficient. Go to Home Depot or Sears and buy a set of EZ-OUTS/ easy outs. They are tapered, reverse thread taps that you will screw into the hole you drill. They come with a small t-handle for you to turn it by hand as you try to extract the broken bolt. As you tighten the reverse threaded tap it will loosen the screw. Use the largest one you can. If you snap off the ex-out you will have a of a time since it is a very hard metal. If that's an engine mount bolt you may also want to partially support the engine with a jack stand to take some pressure off the bolt. With the other mounts in place it probably isn't necessary but it can't hurt as long as the bike remains stable.

I'm sure you can get someone to assist you with this. If it were me, I would even be comfortable riding the bike to someone's house if they offered to help me.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04RSVR View Post
If you do this yourself, DO NOT use the drill to remove the snapped off bolt. Yes, center tap the bolt and slowly drill it out. You don't want to go off center because you can mess up the threads of the hole it goes into and if it's off center your force removing the bolt will be less efficient. Go to Home Depot or Sears and buy a set of EZ-OUTS/ easy outs. They are tapered, reverse thread taps that you will screw into the hole you drill. They come with a small t-handle for you to turn it by hand as you try to extract the broken bolt. As you tighten the reverse threaded tap it will loosen the screw. Use the largest one you can. If you snap off the ex-out you will have a of a time since it is a very hard metal. If that's an engine mount bolt you may also want to partially support the engine with a jack stand to take some pressure off the bolt. With the other mounts in place it probably isn't necessary but it can't hurt as long as the bike remains stable.

I'm sure you can get someone to assist you with this. If it were me, I would even be comfortable riding the bike to someone's house if they offered to help me.
Do NOT use the tap t-handle to unscrew the bolt. Use the tap to tap the hole, period. Then use a reverse thread bolt to remove it. Call Home Depot, Lowes or even Auto Zone to see if anyone sells the tap alone so you dont have to buy the whole set. The hard part is drilling the hole, tapping takes 2 minutes tops (use a lubricant while tapping).
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Old 10-26-2008, 12:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helios View Post
Do NOT use the tap t-handle to unscrew the bolt. Use the tap to tap the hole, period. Then use a reverse thread bolt to remove it. Call Home Depot, Lowes or even Auto Zone to see if anyone sells the tap alone so you dont have to buy the whole set. The hard part is drilling the hole, tapping takes 2 minutes tops (use a lubricant while tapping).

The ones I have are designed for using the t-handle. They are tapered the full length and are not designed to tap a new hole for a reverse threaded screw. Oh, and they have worked for me every time.
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Old 10-26-2008, 12:29 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 04RSVR View Post
The ones I have are designed for using the t-handle. They are tapered the full length and are not designed to tap a new hole for a reverse threaded screw. Oh, and they have worked for me every time.
Oh I see. The ones we use at work are usually smaller diameter, about 3-5mm or 10/32 size. These taps would never hold up to much torque and would snap off in a heartbeat. Hopefully he won't need anything this small.
You're right, having to drill out a tap would be a MF ! I was thinking he could get some more power out of a larger allen wrench than just the t-handle. But like I said, we only use the smaller ones...
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Old 10-26-2008, 01:12 PM   #16
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FYI most taps are hard but brittle, so you can take a good pin punch and smack it, and it will usually break off in chunks. This also will kill any thread you may have, so heli-coil is your best friend, especially in aluminum.

For those cheap do it yourselfers, you can use a cut off wheel to make a notch or groove, the tap it out with a screwdriver or chisel.
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Old 10-26-2008, 01:20 PM   #17
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if you have the tools not hard at all, but i take it you dont, what side of town you at? if you can wait till thursday we can drill it out at my place, on the se side
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Old 10-26-2008, 02:12 PM   #18
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I usually do this kinda stuff for free, IF U dont touch it first, If U mess it up THEN its gonna cost you, give me a call and I can help U prolly wont cost anything for a MH member
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04RSVR View Post
If you do this yourself, DO NOT use the drill to remove the snapped off bolt. Yes, center tap the bolt and slowly drill it out. You don't want to go off center because you can mess up the threads of the hole it goes into and if it's off center your force removing the bolt will be less efficient. Go to Home Depot or Sears and buy a set of EZ-OUTS/ easy outs. They are tapered, reverse thread taps that you will screw into the hole you drill. They come with a small t-handle for you to turn it by hand as you try to extract the broken bolt. As you tighten the reverse threaded tap it will loosen the screw. Use the largest one you can. If you snap off the ex-out you will have a of a time since it is a very hard metal. If that's an engine mount bolt you may also want to partially support the engine with a jack stand to take some pressure off the bolt. With the other mounts in place it probably isn't necessary but it can't hurt as long as the bike remains stable.

I'm sure you can get someone to assist you with this. If it were me, I would even be comfortable riding the bike to someone's house if they offered to help me.
Thanks- the process is clear then. Maybe I'll try it.

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if you have the tools not hard at all, but i take it you dont, what side of town you at? if you can wait till thursday we can drill it out at my place, on the se side
I'm in the middle of town...which ironically has meant that everything is inconveniently placed for me. I'm in no hurry to get this done, so perhaps I'll pm you, thanks!

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I usually do this kinda stuff for free, IF U dont touch it first, If U mess it up THEN its gonna cost you, give me a call and I can help U prolly wont cost anything for a MH member
I am trying to fight my natural instinct and not touch it. That is a tough fight though.
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Old 10-26-2008, 06:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYIN'DUC View Post
I usually do this kinda stuff for free, IF U dont touch it first, If U mess it up THEN its gonna cost you, give me a call and I can help U prolly wont cost anything for a MH member
what a nice guy
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