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Old 06-23-2008, 08:19 PM   #1
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New problem, fuel gauge is scrolling.

So I recoated the tank since it had rust all in it. I got everything buttoned back up, but when I turn the key on, the fuel gauge scrolls and the temp gauge looks like this --. I look at the manual and it says to take it into the dealer if the gauge scrolls. Is there any way to reset it or to make it stop? I disconnected the battery for a minute, but it scrolled again when I turned the key on again. Is there a certain time I have to leave the battery unhooked to reset everything? The bike cranks and runs fine other than that. Please help!
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:03 PM   #2
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Long shot... By any chance are those connectors the same? Swapped?
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caligonetx View Post
Long shot... By any chance are those connectors the same? Swapped?
The battery cable ends? No, they are correct.
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:12 PM   #4
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did you remove the sending unit before coating the tank?
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
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did you remove the sending unit before coating the tank?
Yes, I removed the whole pump assembly.
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RU55ELL View Post
The battery cable ends? No, they are correct.
I was referencing the plugs for the gas gauge and the coolant temp sensor... there would be a few other problems if the cables were swapped

Since these are both two new problems, gotta look for commonalities.
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caligonetx View Post
I was referencing the plugs for the gas gauge and the coolant temp sensor... there would be a few other problems if the cables were swapped

Since these are both two new problems, gotta look for commonalities.
They were never unplugged, although I may have pulled one loose when I was removing the clips for the fairings.
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:24 PM   #8
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Well I went and looked, there arent even any wires that hang out from behind the gauge pod, so that's out.
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:56 PM   #9
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mmm... I'd hate it to be something simple that the dealer overcharges you for.

To answer the question above about memory loss, the electronics usually carry capacitors. On the BMWs it takes 16 minutes for them to discharge enough to reset modules. Not sure about bikes. My katana seems to do it automatically after a few weeks of no one riding it
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Old 06-23-2008, 10:01 PM   #10
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Dang that sucks, Russell. Hope you get it worked out soon and don't run into any more problems. TTY this week.
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Old 06-24-2008, 07:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caligonetx View Post
mmm... I'd hate it to be something simple that the dealer overcharges you for.

To answer the question above about memory loss, the electronics usually carry capacitors. On the BMWs it takes 16 minutes for them to discharge enough to reset modules. Not sure about bikes. My katana seems to do it automatically after a few weeks of no one riding it
Well I unhooked my negative terminal yesterday evening and left it off overnight. I'll hook it back up after I get home and see what that gets me.

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Dang that sucks, Russell. Hope you get it worked out soon and don't run into any more problems. TTY this week.
Yeah no joke. Problems right from the get-go.
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:24 PM   #12
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Well the computer reset and all is well. It gurgles a little at takeoff though. Is there some sort of learning cycle after it is reset?
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:46 PM   #13
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Not familiar with motorcycles having adaptive capabilities. Jloleo's 600 didn't have any problems w a new battery after it was died for a while. See what the next tank of gas does. Hope nothing is clogging the filter, but that would usually cause studdering under load.
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caligonetx View Post
Not familiar with motorcycles having adaptive capabilities. Jloleo's 600 didn't have any problems w a new battery after it was died for a while. See what the next tank of gas does. Hope nothing is clogging the filter, but that would usually cause studdering under load.
Yeah, that's what clued me in that there was a tank full of rust. Now that's taken care of and I had cleaned out the screen when I had the pump out. It stutters below 2500 rpms, doesnt matter whether in gear or not. I just rode about 20 miles tonight seeing if it would clear up and it didn't get any better or any worse. Maybe it's the plugs?
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:00 PM   #15
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From what I was told with my sock filter there is little possibility ANYTHING can get past it to damage the injectors. Im a BMW Master by trait but that's cars...

There is alot of load when starting off unless you really drag that clutch. I didnt' realize I had a problem until I tried really rolling that throttle and the bike was jerking hard. Again, Im trying to look at something that runs together with the original concern which was fuel related. Wouldn't hurt to look at plugs to see how the engine is running but if they were fouled higher RPMs would cause more problems. If the FI light isn't on there may not be a sensor failing but something out of adjustment. W/O an HO2 system it assumes the sensors are correct for temp, throttle request etc and responds with the actuators based on the information given.

Make sure the throttle cables aren't overly tight; I catch alot on our vehicles with a good visual inspection. Other then that, that's about the limit to my experience in this situation. Maybe another can chime it? MH peeps?
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:14 PM   #16
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I'll go back through the manual and make sure everything that I can adjust is in spec.

EDIT: The FI light has never come on at all either.

Last edited by RU55ELL; 06-24-2008 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:20 PM   #17
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so you mentioned it was doing it before? And you found the rust then?
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:24 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caligonetx View Post
so you mentioned it was doing it before? And you found the rust then?
When I found out that there was rust in the tank, the bike wouldnt do anything other than idle. It would rev out of gear fine, but when you put it in gear and get above 2K it would bog and stall.

Now everything is clean, the bike does fine above 2500, but it stutters/sputters below 2500 in and out of gear.

So basically, it ran rough at higher rpms with the rust in the tank, now it runs rough at low rpms with the tank clean.
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:39 PM   #19
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Everything checks out as good so far. I'll get some plugs tomorrow and put those in this weekend to see what that does. I looked inside the tank after I got home from work and noticed that the gas had an orange tint to it, probably due to some leftover rust residue on the pump. Would this make it run rough? If so, it may clear up after the next couple tanks.
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:44 PM   #20
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I looked inside the tank after I got home from work and noticed that the gas had an orange tint to it,
It's from the wing sauce still on your fingers , you dry-nap user.
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