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Old 06-03-2008, 01:44 PM   #21
witchdoctor575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pigpen View Post
While it would be best to take the pan off, you can opt to pack the tap threads with grease. Run the tap a little at a time, remove it, clean the shavings off, repack, continue tapping, so forth, and so on... It's a risk though - you might get all the metal, you might not. The filter might get any extra metal, it might not. I've done it before without a problem (you might not be that lucky though).

true enough it can be done but that is something that I wouldn't recommend. doing it to my own junk and having a problem is one thing but I don't want to be responsible for saying it and them having a problem and looking like an azz.
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:46 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witchdoctor575 View Post
true enough it can be done but that is something that I wouldn't recommend. doing it to my own junk and having a problem is one thing but I don't want to be responsible for saying it and them having a problem and looking like an azz.
Every bit of advice/ information has to be tempered with experience; which sometimes means failure.

There's plenty of information out there on this subject, and the way to mitigate the problem are varied.

Personally, I wouldn't have a problem as you mentioned if it were MY stuff.
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:49 PM   #23
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Its all up to him.. just depends on how he wants to do it.. and how much he wants to work on it to get it done....
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Old 06-04-2008, 08:53 AM   #24
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Dude, just change oil pans...... You can find them cheap used and you never have to worry about your repair coming back to bite you when you are out on a trip somewhere.....

Even if you heli-coil it, its likely to pull back out. Only way you could truly fix it right is to completely weld up the hole solid, then drill it and re-tap it with the correct pitch for the factory drain plug. It would be easier to change pans.


Try here:

www.psychobike.com

go to the forums, then to the classifieds. Throw a post up that you are looking for a pan. I bet you get several people saying they have them.
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:05 AM   #25
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:15 AM   #26
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There's a drain on the oil pan? Chit... I've been turning bike upside down to drain out of the fill this whole time... lol...

We do several oil pan rethreads on BMWs; some remove the lower pans, others dont. In all honestly as mentioned above if you drill it clean and use grease, wash it w a quart of oil through the fill plug we hadn't had problems. Try to drill/tap/helicoil at a level so if there are shavings they come straight down (if not attached to the grease.)

If using a helicoil, make sure it doesn't contact anything and is an aluminium-based coil. If still worried, safety wire it.
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:19 AM   #27
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Old 06-04-2008, 11:30 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witchdoctor575 View Post
true enough it can be done but that is something that I wouldn't recommend. doing it to my own junk and having a problem is one thing but I don't want to be responsible for saying it and them having a problem and looking like an azz.
I just gave him a viable option that has worked for me and for many other people. I tempered it with warnings and told him it wasnt the best option and that it might not work - IMO, that's where my responsiblity ends. (BTW Vortech actually recommends this method for installing some of their supercharger oil line return pan fittings).
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Old 06-04-2008, 12:13 PM   #29
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as easy as it is to remove an oil pan I don't see dealing with this job while the pan is installed. Remove a few bolts, drop the pan, work on a nice bench, get the job done right with the certainty that there isn't any residual metal bits inside the pan. Chances are you will be able to salvage the gasket but a new one is cheap too.

Is the drain on the bottom or on the side? If it's on the bottom, who wants to do this sort of work anyway?

Seriously, it takes less than 5 minutes to remove an oil pan.
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Old 06-04-2008, 04:04 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04RSVR View Post
as easy as it is to remove an oil pan I don't see dealing with this job while the pan is installed. Remove a few bolts, drop the pan, work on a nice bench, get the job done right with the certainty that there isn't any residual metal bits inside the pan. Chances are you will be able to salvage the gasket but a new one is cheap too.

Is the drain on the bottom or on the side? If it's on the bottom, who wants to do this sort of work anyway?

Seriously, it takes less than 5 minutes to remove an oil pan.
Yeah after the hour and a half to remove the fairings/header/radiator etc. Still worth doing it though....No way I would be trying to drill up into the oil pan with it still on the bike......the oil pick up is RIGHT THERE......
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Old 06-04-2008, 05:08 PM   #31
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i looked at the bike. super easy job to remove pan. drop the headers and that is it. remove some pan bolts and got it. the problem he is having now is finding a tap to match the oversize plug he got. I had the correct size but wrong thread count.
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Old 06-04-2008, 05:24 PM   #32
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I've got a Recoil thread kit here of the correct size to reuse the stock plug.
If you can bring the pan by I can install the coil as long as it's not too damaged, but I'm with Alan; If you've got the pan off in the first place, just eplace it.
The GSXR oil pan plug threads have a notch cut in them almost 3/16th" wide, top to bottom.
Typically the threads will spread because of the gap, it's one of the reasons hose pans strip out commonly.
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Old 06-04-2008, 05:33 PM   #33
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not sure if it will work...but, I have an oil pan from an 03 750 motor, maybe someone can verify if they are the same.
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