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Old 10-16-2005, 11:07 AM   #21
zixx6r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sshaikh01
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I get 55 mpg going from Austin to Dallas cruising at 110 mph. Full tuck. It took me an hour and 40 minutes. Engine was spinning 8000+ the whole trip, which is in the powerband. My typical mileage is in the low 40's mpg.

You're the one giving out rules of thumb that dont always apply. It may apply with a bigger motor like a harley V-twin that has a torque peak in the low revs, but not a high strung 600.

Tooling around in 6th at 5000 RPM doesnt do your engine any favors if you have a small displacement motor.
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Old 10-16-2005, 11:24 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paniro187
best way to warm up a engine is by riding the bike. Not fast but just cruise. even from dead cold.
I sort of agree. Fuel injected bikes, no problem. Carbureted bikes like mine I warm up for longer simply because they run like when cold. I warm up coolant to 125F before I take off, it doesnt take long by the time my helmet and gloves are on it's done.

I dont agree you should take off from totally cold though, because metal parts expand and it's not a great idea to put load on an engine while the parts are just starting to heat up from ambient temperature. That said, you dont have to wait until full operational temperature to put light loads on the engine...just not from completely cold.
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Old 10-16-2005, 12:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zixx6r
I sort of agree. Fuel injected bikes, no problem. Carbureted bikes like mine I warm up for longer simply because they run like when cold. I warm up coolant to 125F before I take off, it doesnt take long by the time my helmet and gloves are on it's done.

I dont agree you should take off from totally cold though, because metal parts expand and it's not a great idea to put load on an engine while the parts are just starting to heat up from ambient temperature. That said, you dont have to wait until full operational temperature to put light loads on the engine...just not from completely cold.
my bike is carbed too and i still say the best way to warm it is to ride it. you say simply because it runs like when cold?? how long will it be cold when driving for what like 5 min?? where are you going where you have to have utmost performance by the time you wheel the bike out of your garage??? :laughing6
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Old 10-16-2005, 01:31 PM   #24
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this is good info
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Old 10-16-2005, 01:50 PM   #25
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on my 01 zx6r i let it warm up at idle for a few seconds only. the same with my 04.

while i worked at river oaks chrysler doing driveability/engine tune i learned from experts to let the engine build up initial oil pressure (which is done in the "ON" position) and it will get warmed up when the engines receives a load (ei. in drive or 1st gear)

engine parts do not have to be heated up. on the carbed zx6r the reason it runs like when cold is because of the air/fuel mixture when you crank it up. thats why you have a choke.

i ride my 04 about 10ft RIGHT AFTERi hit the start button and let it idle for about 30 seconds. on my 01 zx6r i would let it idle for about 10 seconds (with the choke 1/4 on) to let the air/mixture do its thing the ride it about 10ft and let it idle again for 30 seconds.
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Old 10-16-2005, 01:54 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zixx6r
I get 55 mpg going from Austin to Dallas cruising at 110 mph. Full tuck. It took me an hour and 40 minutes. Engine was spinning 8000+ the whole trip, which is in the powerband. My typical mileage is in the low 40's mpg.

You're the one giving out rules of thumb that dont always apply. It may apply with a bigger motor like a harley V-twin that has a torque peak in the low revs, but not a high strung 600.

Tooling around in 6th at 5000 RPM doesnt do your engine any favors if you have a small displacement motor.

110mph in a full tuck? when i had the 01 my "power band" (or the RPM's without any flat spots" would be around 9-12k.

riding in a higher gear with low RPM's lowers the strain on the engine.
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Old 10-16-2005, 03:45 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramius
Think about your girl... You wait till she's all juiced up and go slow and easy with her and she's good to go 7 days a week, but you run all up in that stuff with no warning and start making her bend like a gumby doll then she's going to want a day or three to "recover" right?

Well a bikes the same way except they don't heal.
great metaphor

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Old 10-16-2005, 04:10 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick
great metaphor

_M
too bad it's wrong as far as the bikes go
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Old 10-16-2005, 04:48 PM   #29
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dont forget. this is only to get the bike warmed up and not ready to hit high speed runs out of the driveway.
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Old 10-16-2005, 05:39 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arturo3rd
dont forget. this is only to get the bike warmed up and not ready to hit high speed runs out of the driveway.
pwnd
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Old 10-16-2005, 08:40 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arturo3rd
110mph in a full tuck? when i had the 01 my "power band" (or the RPM's without any flat spots" would be around 9-12k.

riding in a higher gear with low RPM's lowers the strain on the engine.
Yeah, on long trips I tend to lay down on the tank for comfort. So full tuck, less drag and all that. On the second "faster" the ducati chief engineer talked about the difference between bayliss and capirossi with their top speeds, with capirossi hitting higher speeds on the straights. The way bayliss was tucked exposed more body than capirex hurting aerodynamics, and they attributed that difference to bayliss losing "the equivalent of 20 horsepower". That is probably a big reason why I got 55 mpg even at such high cruising RPM.

Another reason would be that if you look closely at the ZX-6R dyno charts there is a huge difference in horsepower available at 5k RPM, a usual cruising RPM at 60 mph in 6th, to 8-9k RPM, where I was cruising at 110. Also, the first major peak in the torque curve is at 8k RPM.

I'm not disputing that higher RPM operation will increase wear, but low RPM operation is not always optimal for an engine because if you keep the revs low all the time short shifting you will lug the engine in higher gears, especially on a 600. Lugging an engine also increases wear.
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Old 10-16-2005, 08:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paniro187
my bike is carbed too and i still say the best way to warm it is to ride it. you say simply because it runs like when cold?? how long will it be cold when driving for what like 5 min?? where are you going where you have to have utmost performance by the time you wheel the bike out of your garage??? :laughing6
i warm up the motor which takes about a minute. my morning routine is to start the bike, then helmet, jacket, backpack and gloves on. By that time the temp is around 125 and I get on the road.

not that any of this matters anyway with bikes, most people chuck their bike after 1-2 years and very few survive past 30k miles before they are destroyed. a japanese motorcycle engine is very well made and designed to take abuse, if you've never seen the idiots vs bike article I've attached. a 1998 ninja ZX-6R run without oil and coolant with throttle pinned WFO. It wasnt under any load, but still interesting. another reason why I think that using 8 dollar a quart synthetic oil in a bike is overkill.
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Old 10-16-2005, 09:44 PM   #33
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you bike is at 125 in a minute?? you need to get that checked out then and yes i've seen that article as a matter of fact the next day in that article they put oil and coolant back in it and drove like normal.

think it was in perfomrance bikes or one of the other uk mags.


sorry but i only run silkolene race it's 10.99 a quart (i get it free) but hey the kawasaki race team use it also so i'm sure it's good enough for my bike.
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:52 PM   #34
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I use shell rotella 15W-40 for $5 per gallon and change often. It is very good oil for a conventional...holds up to shear well and doesnt slip a wet clutch. If I had access to any decent free oil, let alone silkolene, I would probably run that as well.
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Old 10-17-2005, 08:18 AM   #35
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Many of you know I learned to ride in New York... it's a heck of alot colder there. Infact, I've even ridden with snow falling before (talk about scary, haha). For any weather under 40 degrees, I would warm my bike up for about 5 minutes... then I would take it slow for about 10 minutes to give the engine some more warm up time. If the temp was over 50... I started it up, put on my gloves, jacket and helmet and then went on my way. Never once had a problem... and this was on a 1994 Suzuki RF600R.
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:16 AM   #36
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:22 AM   #37
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:40 AM   #38
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Lets see....

Get some gear! (Do this before you buy a bike or while you are buying a bike. Otherwise don't buy it because you are a dumbass and this will save the rest of us alot of time and money.)

After you buy your bike... take it to one of the great shops around town and get your suspension tuned. I recommend Motorcycles-Unlimited if you are in the area but, there are several great shops in town that could help you. Just ask. If you happened to have bought a used bike this will give the shop a chance to look it over as well, for your safety. This is a real bike inspection! Not that you pay for to get some lame sticker. That is called theft of your hard earned pay by the lazy state officials. Anyways, if you do not do this first thing... then you are wasting your time riding and adding increased risks to your safety.

Change your oil often. After every track day, and when recommended by your owners manual. I personaly do it after every track day and when I get about 1500 miles on the street. I like to keep the stuff fresh because I usually do not cut the bike much slack. And, why should I. :icon_bigg

Clean and lube your chain. It is recommended to do this about every 500 miles. I do it before every track day or 500 street miles. Gives you a chance to check the tension and visually inspect the chain and other components.

Check your tire pressure. Do it often! Do it before every ride. If you are riding every day then atleast visually inspect the tire and give it a good feel. Check it if the tempature changes.

You should be doing a walk around before you get on the bike.

Give it a few minutes of riding before you get to wild.

That is about it. Otherwise, gear up and go ride!
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Old 10-17-2005, 10:02 AM   #39
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good info
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Old 10-17-2005, 10:16 AM   #40
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I start my bike with full choke, then push it in halfway to bring the idle down to about normal. Then i put my helment and other on. I put my hand on one the fins to see how hot it is. I wait till it is warm, but not yet uncomfortable. Then i ride for a mile or so and push the choke all the way in. A few more miles and it is ready for anything.

I cruise the highway at 3000 rpms.

Y'all probably don't care since my bike isn't a sport bike.
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