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Old 05-12-2008, 01:35 PM   #21
SPHINX
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according to the service manual the battery should have 12.8 Volts of charge, and mine has 12.5. I'll take it to autozone again to slow charge today and try to start the bike tomorrow again. I really hope the battery is the problem.
In case is something else, does anybody know where I can buy a hand tester to measure voltages?

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Old 05-12-2008, 01:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
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it started now, but it won't keep running if I unplug the jump starter.
correction, the bike will stay running if I unplug the jumper. However, it will not start back again if I turn it off.
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:39 PM   #23
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that's a battery.

If you test a battery right after you charge it, likely it will pass since it has a state of charge or static charge on it. did they test it with a little midtronic handheld machine? Or a VAT40...

the midtronic or equivalent only measures the voltage to amperage potential supply by the common voltage to resistance solution. A vat40 uses a carbon pile to put a load on a battery. A typical car battery shouldnt go below 9.5v with a carbon pile load on it.

I would guarantee if you leave the battery unattached (or attached) to the bike and not used for a few hours the voltage will drop.(do not keep on the cement.) A wet acid cell battery at 12.2v is at 50% charge, by the way.
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:49 PM   #24
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They used a big box to test it--the one they used to check regular car batteries--but didn't use any special tool in particular.
so what type of tester are you implying is better to measure the actual voltage of the battery?
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:07 PM   #25
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measuring voltage, any DVOM will work. I use Bluepoints or Oscilliscopes at work.

Its the CCA measurement that lessens and doesn't allow the battery to start the bike/car.

Voltage/ amperage x resistance....

A cheaper charging system would read the voltage, read the resistance and then assume the amperage was fine by dividing the voltage by resistance. Or, if they hooked it to that machine and just looked at the sweep of the needle, then it was the 'tech' that misunderstood the meaning.

no offense to the clerks at autostores but it can be hard to communicate with them sometimes since often they are car enthusiest not mechanics or technicians.
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:11 PM   #26
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All aside, if you can start the bike w a jumper and keep it running on the stator, you know the bike is charging since the bike is running.

Only thing a jump box does is provide additional amperage or 'load' for the starter. It is a helper for the battery. Only other thing to check would be a parasitic draw to ensure there isn't anything draining the battery or staying on, make sure any aftermarket equipment is not running on a permanent power supply but through the ignition switch.
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:19 PM   #27
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sounds like a battery to me and cheap enough to buy a new battery that you won't be out a ton of time or money for "trying" to do a simple fix. Worse case scenario, you wasted a few bucks, but in return eliminated a faulty battery out of your "troubleshooting".
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:30 PM   #28
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if my current battery doesn't load I'll buy a new one. I saw a power sport's battery at autozone that is smaller and lighter than the one I have, does anyone have any experience with this?
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:31 PM   #29
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WAL MART man!!! as long as it'll fit....just gotta make sure you have the depth under the seat. They run under $40 I think.
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Old 05-13-2008, 07:57 AM   #30
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Quote:
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if my current battery doesn't load I'll buy a new one. I saw a power sport's battery at autozone that is smaller and lighter than the one I have, does anyone have any experience with this?
CCA rating needs to be the same or higher. A lower CCA will start the bike, but will wear out quicker. Make sure you can secure it down and it is made for motorcycles. Bikes generate alot more vibrations then cars do and the cells need to be rigid. Even convertables have different batteries at dealers since the frame is more rigid...
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