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Old 05-07-2008, 02:26 PM   #1
Htownz
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01 F4I Constant Odometer-Fuse Burn Out

I have a 2001 Honda F4I with around 12K miles. Bike runs great, only every time I change the 10A fuse for the Odometer/Tail lights, it will burn out within minutes. Sometimes the odometer will flicker, and if I hold in my front brake by a quarter inch, it will come on briefly, allowing me to see the speed/clock/temp.

Has anyone ran into this problem before? Any ideas/suggestions? Anyone Electrical?
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Old 05-07-2008, 02:32 PM   #2
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sounds like wires are crossing some where
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Old 05-07-2008, 02:34 PM   #3
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trace the wiring harness from start to end.....you probably have some wires melted together.
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Old 05-07-2008, 02:48 PM   #4
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one of my fuse's kept bustin and melted a bunch of wires. now i dont have any blinkers
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Old 05-07-2008, 04:08 PM   #5
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Good Stuff Guys. I'll try to trace the paths. Any decent mechanics around that are good with this stuff incase I F it up even more than it is? I wouldn't care if it were just the blinkers, but its too annoying to not have any info with regards to temp or having no tail lights at night.
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Old 05-07-2008, 08:44 PM   #6
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You need a wiring diagram.

Remove the fuse, remove the pin from the connector at the instrument cluster. Now you have isolated that wire, assuming it is a straight wire with no splices.

1) short test from one of the ends of the wire to ground on the battery

if there is continuity, you do have a short or a cross.

You could trace the wire the whole way and try to visibly inspect for a problem, but considering there may be a sheath on the wiring, I would recommend this... get some extra wire, run it from the fuse to the pin on the connector. Replace the fuse and try checking the odometer again. If the fuse doesn't blow, you know you have a short in that wire and not a problem with the instrument cluster.

If, with the fuse out, you pull the brake enough to light up the tail lights(contact the switch) then yes, there is a short to power. The fuse is being blown because the resistance in the tail lights is pulling excessive amperage through that fuse.

You can suspend the tank and keep tapping the brake as the lights/odometer go on/off carefully and follow the harness w a compass. The magnetic effect of the short may trigger the compass to jump. Otherwise, follow both wires or find a commonality in both circuits.

Finally, replace both wires or repair the wires if they are shorted together.
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:36 PM   #7
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I waited through 36kmeg before I gave up on downloading a manual w schematic to check the wiring for possible faults. If you have a diagram, post it
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Old 05-08-2008, 01:17 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caligonetx View Post
You need a wiring diagram.

Remove the fuse, remove the pin from the connector at the instrument cluster. Now you have isolated that wire, assuming it is a straight wire with no splices.

1) short test from one of the ends of the wire to ground on the battery

if there is continuity, you do have a short or a cross.

You could trace the wire the whole way and try to visibly inspect for a problem, but considering there may be a sheath on the wiring, I would recommend this... get some extra wire, run it from the fuse to the pin on the connector. Replace the fuse and try checking the odometer again. If the fuse doesn't blow, you know you have a short in that wire and not a problem with the instrument cluster.

If, with the fuse out, you pull the brake enough to light up the tail lights(contact the switch) then yes, there is a short to power. The fuse is being blown because the resistance in the tail lights is pulling excessive amperage through that fuse.

You can suspend the tank and keep tapping the brake as the lights/odometer go on/off carefully and follow the harness w a compass. The magnetic effect of the short may trigger the compass to jump. Otherwise, follow both wires or find a commonality in both circuits.

Finally, replace both wires or repair the wires if they are shorted together.
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Originally Posted by Caligonetx View Post
I waited through 36kmeg before I gave up on downloading a manual w schematic to check the wiring for possible faults. If you have a diagram, post it
Thanks a bunch man. That's pretty thorough. I was actually looking for a schematic online earlier. I'm definitely a rookie at troubleshooting electrical problems on bikes. I'll try and give it a shot..

I'll try your first test-run to see if there is no short for that particular wire connected that fuse. Hopefully I can dig up a schematic soon. Otherwise it seems quite complex to see how the analog gauges effect the indicator movement within the cluster. I'm sure you'll hear from me again. I appreciate the help
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Old 05-08-2008, 12:09 PM   #9
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according to cbrforums.com there is one in the ower's manual, and there are downloadable versions available online if you google '2001 f4i wiring diagram.'
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