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Old 04-09-2008, 01:26 PM   #101
texlurch
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uhhhmmm I am sure he meant $180 for the track day. The gear costs are assuming you don't have gear.

But he did leave off gas, lunch, gas for the tow vehicle, and misc expenses that would total up to somewhere around $69.75.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:27 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texlurch View Post
uhhhmmm I am sure he meant $180 for the track day. The gear costs are assuming you don't have gear.

But he did leave off gas, lunch, gas for the tow vehicle, and misc expenses that would total up to somewhere around $69.75.
ya after i read it again i edited it. at first when i read it im like wtf that dont add up.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:38 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by cashtown View Post
well it's prolly not the tire then.
Then what else could it be? it was fine before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanworrell View Post
Still cheaper then ticket/bail/lawyer/insurance ect ect

Goto baytown on sundays. You likely wont even need full leathers. Just boats and leather jacket if your under 150 mph (i think) and its only 20 bux and you can run all day.
That sounds good i have a leather jacket and Tim boots. where in baytown is it?
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:46 PM   #104
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Then what else could it be? it was fine before.


That sounds good i have a leather jacket and Tim boots. where in baytown is it?
It's drag racing.

One of the country's best NHRA sanctioned 1/4 mile strips. East of Baytown on FM 565.

Me, I'd want leather pants, gauntlet gloves and real riding boots. Also will probably need a tether kill-switch.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:54 PM   #105
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It's drag racing.

One of the country's best NHRA sanctioned 1/4 mile strips. East of Baytown on FM 565.

Me, I'd want leather pants, gauntlet gloves and real riding boots. Also will probably need a tether kill-switch.
Ya depends on who's there. I've gone without a kill-switch before. Either way making a kill-switch is so easy. I believe there is a thread on this site how to make one for uber cheap.

http://www.houstonraceway.com/
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:58 PM   #106
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Dude, you're nuts, but you're only cool if u go through the ez tag at 140mph.
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:00 PM   #107
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Still cheaper then ticket/bail/lawyer/insurance ect ect
.


BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Get caught at those speeds and it will cost you far more than any track day period...
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:09 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meaner-n-u View Post
so if he takes it to the texas mile to top out his bike did your response help him at all?

like i said get a stabilizer, check proper tire pressure, check your forks.

even with a stabilizer you'll get some head shake on ****ed up roads.



Pay Attention:

Not at the track. Not on a closed course. So, No. Not Sorry. No help at all. Glad he didn't fall and this isn't another RIP thread!
yes i got that,thats why i said " IF HE TAKES IT TO THE TEXAS MILE"
i get that he was speeding,and dont lie we've all done it. even racer x gets speeding tickets

what i responded to was to help his HEAD SHAKE PROBLEM! not tell him to slow down, because if he does take it to a road course track or a texas mile, he could still be KILLED due to a nasty wobble at those speeds.
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:15 PM   #109
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yes i got that,thats why i said " IF HE TAKES IT TO THE TEXAS MILE"
i get that he was speeding,and dont lie we've all done it. even racer x gets speeding tickets

what i responded to was to help his HEAD SHAKE PROBLEM! not tell him to slow down, because if he does take it to a road course track or a texas mile, he could still be KILLED due to a nasty wobble at those speeds.
Dude your right on the money
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:19 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f4iguy
yes i got that,thats why i said " IF HE TAKES IT TO THE TEXAS MILE"
i get that he was speeding,and dont lie we've all done it. even racer x gets speeding tickets
Hmm... my last speeding ticket was in the 80's.
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:21 PM   #111
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The dude's bike has a headshake problem and some of you guys are trying to get him to do a trackday?

More then likely, its due to non matching tires....BELIEVE IT OR NOT....I have had this same problem, went through the entire bike with a fine tooth come and found nothing wrong.... turns out, the guy had a BT56j on the front and a metzler ME on the back that was only a few hundred miles old. We swapped a matching BT56j on the rear and the problem quit.....Ofcourse this happened after I got thrown into a headshake on it at about 100mph in 3rd and it was whipping lock to lock..... It is a scary feeling...

Obviously, check your steering head bearing adjustment, check axle alignment, make your your suspension settings are the same on both forks. If its none of that, check the wheelbearings(front AND rear). If you detect no problems on any of that stuff, change the rear tire to match the front.


I know I know, I have ran mismatched tires for years with no problems but every now and then, I come across a bike that refuses mismatched tires.... I have also had a rear wheelbearing go bad and cause a wobble in the bars at 60mph.....
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Old 04-09-2008, 05:59 PM   #112
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is there any way it would be the new tire because he said that he road on it only twice. I was under the impression that they had to wear in
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:36 PM   #113
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man it could be but i have no idea ???? hopefully its just that and nothing else cuz i dont feel like paying an arm an leg to fix this problem
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:17 PM   #114
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buy a steering damper
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:34 PM   #115
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I can relate to you (not the 135mph part) Abba or whatever your name says... I just bought an 02 954. I have been riding regularly this week and suddenly I had a moment of clarity. I had not even had this biked ckecked out by a pro! I doesn't matter if I am going 40 or 140mph...if something isnt right, from a safety standpoint, my is in trouble!!! I made an appointment with Patrick, because Motorcycles Unlimited was recommended to me outside this site prior to me joining. I made the appointment because I have no trailer and I want to wait. Having thought about it more, I think I am going to get over there tomorrow because there may be more things I need done, they may need more time and you can not put a price on safety. (This does NOT mean I am handing over a black check Motorcycles Unlimited if you read this!!!) I want it all checked...suspension, brakes, etc.

The way I figure, spend the money on the bike, make sure it is in tact, then I can save for the fancy lid, $400 jackets, paint and all the flashy stuff.

I found my jacket, helmet, gloves on craigslist for cheap.
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:37 PM   #116
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My name is Abbas but ya ur right i will be going over there Friday.
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Old 04-10-2008, 02:59 PM   #117
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you should have accelerated instead of slowing down
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:39 PM   #118
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you should have accelerated instead of slowing down
why
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Old 04-11-2008, 01:24 PM   #119
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Some people say that when the front tire starts to oscillate that the rider should gas the bike. In theory, they'll explain, this loads the rear of the bike and lightens the front of the bike, thereby lifting it a little bit.

They argue that if the front tire is not carrying as much of the load that the wobble will go away.

I've never really warmed to this idea. Most of the wobbles that I've encountered were started by acceleration (sometimes over a bumpy surface, but maybe just hard acceleration with too quick of an upshift) - and it never felt that accelerating harder would do anything but make the wobble worse.

I may be wrong (and usually am) but what I do when the bike shakes it's head and says, "NO SIR!" is just ease off the throttle. Don't grab a handful of brake, just let the engine braking do the work. I've endured quite a few good wobbles on Houston-area roads and have never been bucked off - you can more than likely ride it out if you keep your cool and don't over react.
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Old 04-11-2008, 02:10 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cashtown View Post
Some people say that when the front tire starts to oscillate that the rider should gas the bike. In theory, they'll explain, this loads the rear of the bike and lightens the front of the bike, thereby lifting it a little bit.

They argue that if the front tire is not carrying as much of the load that the wobble will go away.

I've never really warmed to this idea. Most of the wobbles that I've encountered were started by acceleration (sometimes over a bumpy surface, but maybe just hard acceleration with too quick of an upshift) - and it never felt that accelerating harder would do anything but make the wobble worse.

I may be wrong (and usually am) but what I do when the bike shakes it's head and says, "NO SIR!" is just ease off the throttle. Don't grab a handful of brake, just let the engine braking do the work. I've endured quite a few good wobbles on Houston-area roads and have never been bucked off - you can more than likely ride it out if you keep your cool and don't over react.
Yep, good advice.... or just hold a constant throttle and let the bike straighten itself out.....usually if you get on the brakes or let off the gas too hard when you are at the beginning of a slapper, it only gets worse.....Hitting the throttle harder has never worked for me at straightening one out thats starting to dance.... I ususally just stay on the gas or LIGHTLY let out of it some...
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