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Old 04-08-2008, 12:29 AM   #1
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Cam Chain tension???

Anybody know what this is and how 2 fix it? I hear a ticking coming from the right side of my bike, and i'm being told it's some kinda cam chain tension ! It's a constant tick when i start it up and it seems 2 continue for a little while, the ticking does not get faster when i turn the throttle, it remains constant. Seems like it disappears after awhile.

Thanks ahead a time
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:36 AM   #2
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it should be on the back of the cyclinder(it sticks out) on the right side of the motor.its a cam chain tensioner...get an aftermarket one..patrick at motorcycles unlimited will hook u up
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stunterdude View Post
it should be on the back of the cyclinder(it sticks out) on the right side of the motor.its a cam chain tensioner...get an aftermarket one..patrick at motorcycles unlimited will hook u up
is it damaging my t by not being fixed, It's been occuring for at least a month? :/:
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:56 AM   #4
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If it is in fact the tensioner, then it can cause problems...major problems.
If it were me, I'd refrain from riding it if you can and get it looked at ASAP.

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Old 04-08-2008, 02:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1FastGSXR View Post
is it damaging my t by not being fixed, It's been occuring for at least a month? :/:
yes it can if it gets bad enough, i had a f4i that the timing chain jumped a tooth cuz the cct was out, then i had to go threw tha hassle of fixin it.best get it fixed asap.
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Old 04-08-2008, 02:38 AM   #6
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i was under the impression that the cams turn at a fixed ratio to the speed of the crank. if the crank speeds up the cams speed up to allow the engine to aspirate.

that means that your cams ticking noise would speed up as you varied the throttle.

but im not a mechanic, so don't take my word as solid. your best bet is to take it up to patrick and let him listen to the tick.

gl, and if its a loud tick, get it fixed asap
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Old 04-08-2008, 02:47 AM   #7
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if the tick goes away or gets quiet after your bike fully warms up then you are ok.. but if your at 180 degrees on the temp and the tick sounds more like marbles rollin around in your motor then its a timing chain tensioner or something else. On the Honda F4i they had several recalls on their automatic chain tensioner. If the guides wear down and fail then that is when there is going to be a problem. Its normal to have a ticking sound but it would quiet down or go away after warm up. I dont recomend a manual tensioner unless you have knowledge on how to use it and keep it properly tensioned. Too much will cause premature failure.
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Old 04-08-2008, 02:49 AM   #8
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OOO and if it doesnt get faster then its ok.. some bikes have noise injectors... timing chain slapping against the guides or timing case should vary in noise when you hit the throttle. could be piston slap or something when the motor is cold on start up. how many miles on the bike?
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:41 AM   #9
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Candy,don't worry about it. If the noise speeds up when you rev the engine slightly, its just the cam chain rattling around some. The cam chain tensioner is a ratcheting type tension with oil pressure supplied to it as a back up. Odds are, the ratcheting claw on the tensioner is probably in between clicks which means the chain is ever so slightly loose. Eventually, the chain will stretch a tad or the rubber coated guides will "give" enough for the tensioner claw to click into the next groove and tighten the chain back up.

As for a constant ticking that doesn't speed up, its probably just the injectors you are hearing. Plus these motors are not the quietest motors to start with, you probably just never paid attention to it running with the tank up to hear all the racket.....

Stay away from manual cam chain tensioners. Unless you are well trained and have highly tuned ears, you will do more damage then good with those things....Back in the old days, we were all running them in 99-00 busas and I saw more motors get popped from people over-tightening the adjuster and snapping cam chains then I saw the oem adjusters fail. In 01, suzuki came up with the new style adjusters and they are perfect.....
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:26 AM   #10
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Thanks HOMIES.....GREAT ADVICE and GREAT HELP!!!
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:45 AM   #11
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:28 AM   #12
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WOW, thats the first one I have ever seen look like that..... I do believe they can fail but not NEAR as common as the old style "spring" tensioners. Thats why suzuki plumbed the tensioner with an oil line to put additional pressure against the plunger holding tension on the guide.

After seeing those teeth, its definetly worth inspection if you are inquestion of noise. I just had my tensioner out and other then usual wear pattern on the teeth, it looked perfect with over 20k miles on it.

Candy, one thing you can do if you are worried, is pull the bolt(the 10mm in the middle) out of the tensioner, remove the spring and plunger from the inside, then take a phillips screwdriver and put it in the hole and push against the internal pin in the tensioner until it clicks. Basically you are forcing the tensionior to ratchet into the next click. If you are pushing it pretty firm and it doesn't click, then leave it alone because its tight enough. Then reinstall the plunger/spring/bolt. You are just helping it get into the next click quicker and it may quiet it down some. OR you can just leave it alone and let it tighten up on its own.
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:54 AM   #13
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:59 AM   #14
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Sh*t, what do you think happened? sheered the bolts off first? bad spot in the chain causing it to jump off the sprocket and get pulled between the sprocket and the hub?

I have seen a lot of problems with wheelbearings, cush drives, bolts sheering etc.....Usually not on stock wheels/carriers though, but MOST of the aftermarket wheels/cushdrives have problems with this.

I am curious about yours as I have an 01 1000 just like it... 8k miles on mine and it all the hardwear still looks new.
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:08 AM   #15
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The chain was kept up and lubed before each ride. It was fine. The issue was the bolts. I only dyno'd at 165-168hp. But I rode the thing really, realy hard. Ask anyone that knows me. I think that the bolts waller out the holes from upshifting/braking/accellerating and then eventually that causes the bolts to break.
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:20 AM   #16
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Thanks for posting....I will have to keep an eye on that sh*t on my 1000....I am nutz about maintenance but I wouldn't have thought to inspect the 1000 that close...On the busa, yes its constantly inspected...

168hp out of an 01 1000 is awesome..... Mine only makes 154-155hp with full akro and a GOOD custom map.... you must have had cams in it... ?
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:48 AM   #17
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Candi,
Your CCT has a "screw drive" type of tensioning system and the oil jet is internal, you do not have an external oil line.

It's pretty commin to see failures on GSXR's, especially when used in drag racing applications.
I'd recommend replacing it, and we keep them in stock.

If you're unsure if it's the CCT or not, come by and I'll give it a listen, no charge.
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Candi,
Your CCT has a "screw drive" type of tensioning system and the oil jet is internal, you do not have an external oil line.

It's pretty commin to see failures on GSXR's, especially when used in drag racing applications.
I'd recommend replacing it, and we keep them in stock.

If you're unsure if it's the CCT or not, come by and I'll give it a listen, no charge.
I didn't know they changed the tensioner design for the later GSXRs. I know the 01-04s at least had the oil dampened tensioner and the busas from 01-07 for sure....I am curious...I would like to take a look at the new design to see if its better....I thought the oil dampened unit was pretty bullet proof. I see them on 200-400hp hayabusas 99% of the time and people rarely report problems....

Its definetly bad when they let go though.....usually the chain will jump sprockets on engine decel and boom.....there went the valves and pistons...
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:24 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Candi,
Your CCT has a "screw drive" type of tensioning system and the oil jet is internal, you do not have an external oil line.

It's pretty commin to see failures on GSXR's, especially when used in drag racing applications.
I'd recommend replacing it, and we keep them in stock.

If you're unsure if it's the CCT or not, come by and I'll give it a listen, no charge.
I will do then Patrick, probably on Saturday after we get these cluthes in. it as a matter of fact. I'll just be in there Saturday for u 2 look at that AND might as well let u put my sprockets on for me 2, if that's ok!

THANKS SO MUCH, i definately OWE U for the help!!!!
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:25 PM   #20
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Thanks GUYS for all the advice!!!!! It's definately helpful!
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