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Old 04-11-2008, 03:33 PM   #21
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Old 04-11-2008, 03:34 PM   #22
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Old 04-11-2008, 03:46 PM   #23
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i use 3 different clears.....for 3 different price ranges.

for those that want show quality finish...i use Sikkens/Lesonal's Universal clear (about $300/gallon)

for those that want OEM type work, i use Sikkens/Lesonal Pro-Air clear or PPG's Shopline JC661 Overall Clear (about $130/gallon)

Inside scoop....PPG's Shopline clear is the same clear as their upperline "PPG Global Clear" which is $250/gallon.....same characteristics, same mixing ratios....same product, different label.


using good products helps....but having flawless prep work is the key. spraying is easy....prep and bodywork is the hard part. i can use products and still turn a good product.....just takes too long and not user friendly.
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Old 04-11-2008, 03:54 PM   #24
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it's not worth it doing it yourself, unless you have many projects to work on.

i'll throw down a quick price list of things you'll need to do it....(based on bottom line products)

clear coat - 100
base coat - from 50-300/pint (requires 1 1/2-2 pints for bike)
reducers - 50
primer - 80
sandpaper - 30
degreaser - 40
plastic cleaner - 25
paint gun - from 50-700
filters/regulators - 30
wash thinner - 30

those prices are based on the cheap stuff, not good stuff. so if you plan to do 1 or 2 projects.....not worth the dough.....if you plan to do many, might be worth a shot.

WORD TO THE WISE.....DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE MIX RATTLE CAN SPRAY PAINT WITH AUTOMOTIVE URETHANE PAINT. THAT MEANS, NO SPRAY CAN PRIMER JUNK....OR YOU'LL HAVE A GOOD TIME RE-DOING IT
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:08 PM   #25
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:19 PM   #26
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i use 3 different clears.....for 3 different price ranges.

for those that want show quality finish...i use Sikkens/Lesonal's Universal clear (about $300/gallon)

for those that want OEM type work, i use Sikkens/Lesonal Pro-Air clear or PPG's Shopline JC661 Overall Clear (about $130/gallon)

Inside scoop....PPG's Shopline clear is the same clear as their upperline "PPG Global Clear" which is $250/gallon.....same characteristics, same mixing ratios....same product, different label.


using good products helps....but having flawless prep work is the key. spraying is easy....prep and bodywork is the hard part. i can use products and still turn a good product.....just takes too long and not user friendly.
hey tom....since im not the most experience rider and i just went down not that long ago...i know im gonna end up going down again so i jst painted muy self....i just need some clear...u think thatv OEM kind would kind of protect it?
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:22 PM   #27
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i agree with tom.....its not worth it just to do once or twice......he didnt even include the costs of buffing equipment and compound.

and if you dont have a booth, get ready to do alot of cutting and buffing.

you will get a better product faster and prob. cheaper if you let a pro do it
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:28 PM   #28
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all i need its somebody to spray some clear and do the work after the clear the buffing right...yea thats all i need
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:33 PM   #29
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prep it good... take your time... and shake them cans really really good..

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Old 04-11-2008, 04:38 PM   #30
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prep it good... take your time... and shake them cans really really good..

j/k
i did

no joke
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:38 PM   #31
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Old 04-11-2008, 05:53 PM   #32
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Quote:
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hey tom....since im not the most experience rider and i just went down not that long ago...i know im gonna end up going down again so i jst painted muy self....i just need some clear...u think thatv OEM kind would kind of protect it?
almost any clear coat will work fine for the finish you are wanting.

only someone lookin for optimum shine and an extremely deep gloss would be willing to go with the "top of the line" clear coat. almost everyone goes with OEM type clear....which would be the "middle-line" clear, it shines real nice and laid down smooth.

then you have the really cheap stuff....which is what maaco uses....it's more of a "paint and sell before the clear fades next month" type of clear. i wouldn't use that if it was given to me for free.

if you painted it yourself with spraycan paint....and want pro-grade type clear....you'll have one problem. it might look good at first, and it MIGHT stick well for the time being....but the clearcoat will lift right off the spraypaint and you'll be able to start peeling the clearcoat right off the paint.

i rarely have to bring out the buffer and compound. if you prep your bodywork and keep it nice and clean free of dirt/dust.....you can lay out the clear nice and smooth.

your bodywork and prep work reflects on the outcome of your paintjob.
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:02 PM   #33
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if you painted it yourself with spraycan paint....and want pro-grade type clear....you'll have one problem. it might look good at first, and it MIGHT stick well for the time being....but the clearcoat will lift right off the spraypaint and you'll be able to start peeling the clearcoat right off the paint.
if u use the OEM type kind of the middle one not the cheap shait or the really expensive....would it still start to peel it off???
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:07 PM   #34
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Quote:
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if u use the OEM type kind of the middle one not the cheap shait or the really expensive....would it still start to peel it off???
that possibility will always be there when using spray paint and professional grade paint....not sayin it will....just the chances are extremely high. my buddy spray painted his stuff and wanted me to put some good clear on it....about a year later, the clear coat was flakin off. i used the blower on it, and was literally blowing all the clear off the bike.
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:09 PM   #35
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aaaa

now ....what would u recomend me to do??
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:15 PM   #36
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:20 PM   #37
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aaaa

now ....what would u recomend me to do??
dont waste money on professional grade paint....

buy the best rattle can clear coat you can get and use that. the most expensive is not the best either......maybe do a lil research and find out which spray can clear is the best one out there.
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:47 PM   #38
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I want to paint my bike (a bit of an artist myself), so the first question is, is car paint the same as bike paint? want to go from yellow to black
I painted my bike last year with the Duplicolor Mirage Ice, which is a three stage paint process that changes colors in the sun, and came out real nice. I even added some graphics to it. It was a rattle can.The draw back is that they discontinued the paint and if I went down, I was SOL. I got a paint gun kit for christmas and decided to use it this. (I plan on painting my bike a different color each year) I went to Louis Auto Paint on South Post and got everything for around $180. That was my base coat, mid kandy clear, my final clear, reducers and catalyst. They are open tomorrow until noon. Just take your time in painting, and it would come out nice. I have never painted a bike before this, and have a waiting list to do bikes. Check them out, and let me know how it goes.
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:00 PM   #39
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dont waste money on professional grade paint....

buy the best rattle can clear coat you can get and use that. the most expensive is not the best either......maybe do a lil research and find out which spray can clear is the best one out there.
and by using can clear coat it wont pill off??? o mang
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:10 PM   #40
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It doesn't matter if you buy the best product on the shelf, if you don't know what you are doing, it's gonna be sheit. If you are planning to go down again soon, then rattled it. If not, spend a little more and let the professional do it and be proud and enjoy it.
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