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Old 01-22-2008, 10:18 PM   #1
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Body work repair Question

What's a good basic tool to use to hammer out dents.
I have a small dent in a tank.
I can reach the inside of the tank
I've been using 2 hammers.
One hammer handle side (inside the tank againt the dent)
Other hammer used to force handle side against dent. :/:

Any other suggestions?
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:26 PM   #2
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warm sunshine or asmall amount of heat from another source this time of year, & some dry ice from your local liquor store. No hammering , notmuch strech.lol
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leprechaun View Post
warm sunshine or asmall amount of heat from another source this time of year, & some dry ice from your local liquor store. No hammering , notmuch strech.lol
jim
Details please,
I have a heat gun and accesst to dry ice
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:40 PM   #4
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http://pa.essortment.com/howtofixbody_rjmc.htm

paste this in your address bar click go,look at bottom of page
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swift E View Post
Details please,
I have a heat gun and accesst to dry ice
quote: DRY ICE METHOD OF DENT REMOVAL

For small dings and dents, a process of heat and extreme cold may force the dent out on its own. Heat the dent with a specialized tool or blow dryer. Once its heated, apply dry ice directly on to the dents surface. The dent should pop out.

NOTE: Dry ice can cause damage to skin instantly. Always wear gloves when handling dry ice.

from link ^^^
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:49 PM   #6
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remember alot of tanks are double walled....
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:50 PM   #7
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remember alot of tanks are double walled....
shouldn't matter with the "dry ice method"
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07SLVRCBR View Post
quote: DRY ICE METHOD OF DENT REMOVAL

For small dings and dents, a process of heat and extreme cold may force the dent out on its own. Heat the dent with a specialized tool or blow dryer. Once its heated, apply dry ice directly on to the dents surface. The dent should pop out.

NOTE: Dry ice can cause damage to skin instantly. Always wear gloves when handling dry ice.

from link ^^^
Also depends if your trying to save paint or not. Careful on the heat part. There are two other options PDR or a dent puller that welds a pin to pull.
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caligonetx View Post
remember alot of tanks are double walled....
Really? Which ones?

The dry ice method works sometimes. We use the same method with sheet metal on cars but we use a torch and cool water quenching with a rag. It's not very effective, and works *sometimes*, not always.

I use a brass rod with a blunt end and a hammer- hammer n dolly method. If it's that small, and you're going to paint it anyway, why not just Bond-o that ?
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:16 AM   #10
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I'm not looking to save paint.
I've already started sanding and prep work on the tank.
These dents are NOT minor at all, there are several large Dents. Will the dry ice still work?

I'm just thinking that if I can hammer out most of the dent then I won't need to use as much fiberglass to fill.
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:28 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick H.I.C. View Post
Also depends if your trying to save paint or not. Careful on the heat part. There are two other options PDR or a dent puller that welds a pin to pull.
Ive seen this same thing but instead of welding the pin to the surface it used some sort of hot glue. It worked pretty well and did not f up the paint.
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:40 AM   #12
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Again,
I don't give two about the paint. I'm going to paint it again anywho.
But I'd like to make the fiberglass/bondo process easier on me
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Old 01-23-2008, 10:07 AM   #13
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Hey guys,
I was talking to Tim and mentioned that after I pull or hammer the dents out that I planned on using the Fiberglass resin to fill the low spots.
He reminded me that the tank is not FIBERGLASS.
Will this resin still work on the steel tank? Or is there another product I should consider?
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Old 01-23-2008, 10:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swift E View Post
Hey guys,
I was talking to Tim and mentioned that after I pull or hammer the dents out that I planned on using the Fiberglass resin to fill the low spots.
He reminded me that the tank is not FIBERGLASS.
Will this resin still work on the steel tank? Or is there another product I should consider?
Bondo
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:26 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulric View Post
Bondo
+1

The thinner the better...
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:43 AM   #16
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I know bondo works but in thin areas, what if these dents won't pull well and I need to FILL areas.
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:45 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vertigo View Post
Ive seen this same thing but instead of welding the pin to the surface it used some sort of hot glue. It worked pretty well and did not f up the paint.
this is what PDR is. Paintless Dent Removal

cost you about $50-$100 a dent.

bondo that biotch and be done with it. if it's too large you can use a stud welder/puller.....but gotta be EXTRA careful and make sure there is no gas or fumes inside the tank. the stud welder puts holes sometimes and if you have gas in there....KABOOOMMM!!!!!
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:46 AM   #18
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you may or may not have access to a stud welder.....

but i still suggest hammer and dolley method as much as you can, then bondo away
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:57 AM   #19
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Hammer + dolly
Please explain Tony
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Old 01-23-2008, 12:00 PM   #20
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here you go

http://www.asseenontvguys.com/index....PROD&ProdID=49
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