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Old 01-20-2008, 02:44 PM   #81
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Try MTI, they are opening a Viper Division in their shop to start capitalizing on the rich folk with vipers. I am sure they can either flash your ECM or get you with someone who can. Just remember to keep it rich and keep timing advance short so you don't have a melt down like I did....Not sure if yours is intercooled or not but.....

Thats pretty cool to have a blower on a wrangler.... Sounds like something I would do....

It's intercooled.

I got it a few years back as payment from a friend in New Orleans that owns a 4WD shop there.
He needed a couple of trucks repo'd from some alleged crack dealers down here. I was happy to help.

We installed it ourselves over the Christmas break in '04

You know how us gear heads are, never can leave anything well enough alone.

Thanks for the info on MTI.
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Old 01-20-2008, 02:47 PM   #82
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If you want to make 160rwhp on an 01/02, you will need a healthy engine, good pipe, good tune and probably a set of yosh cams.....That would get you between 160-165rwhp but it would be a little weaker in the bottom and low midrange....thats why I haven't slapped cams in mine as I love the tq and midrange of the stock 01s.....they are WAY stronger in the low to midrange then the newer 1000s.
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Old 01-20-2008, 02:47 PM   #83
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FYI a 2001-2002 Gix1k will make anywhere from 136-143rwhp in SAE numbers.....most though are 136-139 in SAE....In STD they are usually in the 140-144hp range. Mine only made 142hp in STD with a slip on. Mine was a little weaker then most for some reason, I think it was broke in too easy. Here it was at 4400 miles when I got it, still had the original rear tire if that tells you anything:

Velocity Stacks questions?? This is also a DJ dyno but the operator did not get it to full temp before making the pulls, hence the difference in HP from the Johnny Cheese chart at 142hp, both were in STD.
lets just agree to disagree becuase you are obviously missing my point
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Old 01-20-2008, 04:48 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by FasterFaster View Post
lets just agree to disagree becuase you are obviously missing my point
that's because you aren't making one. let's recap...

1. you say the pc3 non-usb is better, because it's easier to tune. but when asked why you can't back it up, other than say andy told you so.

2. you say your bike won't make 140 whp, others post several dyno charts proving otherwise, you post a chart from an aprilia falco and a busa, but don't list a reason why. and then call every other dyno chart posted "faulty."
but fail to list a reason why you believe they're faulty.

3. i call you out on not know what you're talking about, you just go on about how andy knows what he's talking about. there's no doubt about that, andy is one of the most knowledgeable people in the country when it comes to tuning and turning wrenches on anything with 2 wheels. but you still can formulate your own opinion on anything, nor list any kind of VIABLE reason why what you're saying is right.


so...let's have it...spell it out for us, since we're so stupid we can't figure it out on our own. WTF are you trying to say??
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Old 01-20-2008, 05:02 PM   #85
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so....um ya. velocity stacks are nice.
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Old 01-20-2008, 05:05 PM   #86
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are we still talkin about this? sooooo you gunna get'em?
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Old 01-20-2008, 05:42 PM   #87
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yea I think I'm going to get them for sure just my next paycheck LOL what has happened In this thread since I last posted
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:49 PM   #88
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Im confused; general concensus on my end is that there is an arguement about whether the newer USB PCMIII is not as easy to adjust as the unavailable PCM. And there are dyno charts proving a hp range for a gsxr1k but one owner still doesn't believe the information provided...

From information alone, I, the neutral party, am confused out of my mind as to what the conversation is really about... So you can fudge numbers a bit, ok, we all can. But all the information provided by party number 2(patrick/zxalan/secretagent) has backed up their case and provided direct answers for all questions from the first party.

So we the jury are not out on this one; if opinions still differ, that's good IMHO; cause we need to be judgemental with our projects and performance, that's how new tweaks, hp gains and products are created. Most of us are analytical so show the numbers, back up your stories, play nice and lets all gain from eachother's experience

Game on...
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:52 PM   #89
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lol i thinks its 4 pages or so about something that someone doesnt know about something. i dunno what happened, but hey, Im excited to get some Velocity Stacks
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:00 PM   #90
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i dunno i didnt really pay attention, im more concerned with my bikes performance then anything else, i to am neutral in this, only cuz i dont know what happened
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:33 PM   #91
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My only experience is with the alternating intakes we use on our Bimmers. the 3 series uses a flap valve to change the runners from long(low,mid-range power) to short runners for high-range. The 7 and other cars w the n62/tu engines use a sophisticated worm-gear runner-spinning intake track that alternated the runner length as you drive....

Sounds like a good purchase to change the power curve range...
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:06 PM   #92
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Patrick, i got your message about the prices, one question for you. If i just had the velocity stacks installed and didnt run it without a PC3 or a tune, would it be ok until i did get a pc3? Any kind of harm it would do to engine or the components.....like i said im gonna try to do it in steps
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:12 PM   #93
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You'll be fine for the time being without the PCIII.
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:42 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
You'll be fine for the time being without the PCIII.
wait, now do you mean the PCIII, or the PCIII USB???















just kiddin!
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Old 01-21-2008, 02:03 AM   #95
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Since this deteriorated, let me say this before I weigh in on my opinion about the stacks.

Andy is a top-notch tuner, and his skills are exemplary with his dyno. Contrary to people's opinions, shop owners like Andy don't make a boatload of money tuning bikes- Andy only does it because he loves doing that on Saturdays (and when he has to for a customer who wants it during the week). Andy, like many of us, and many, many other good mechanics, have opinions and usually express them openly with customers with whom they want to discuss the philosophies of mechanics/ tuning/ products, etc. It's a hoot when you can pop by a good shop and bench race or talk shop with the guys. Andy, like a very few other mechanics- Patrick being one- will only "push" products that they have had success with and are working well at the time and over time.

I respect both guys (Andy and Patrick), and patronize both businesses.

I have no idea why people get so wrapped up in what the dyno tells them their horsepower is... must be a phallic correlation. What is important in dyno tuning is how well the vehicle performs after the tuning is done. After getting a baseline tune, and working to "find" extra horsepower at the "big end" (or where ever you want it), it's a rare thing to "find" additional horsepower of any consequence by simply more tuning. What is important with tuning is tuning in how the power comes on, where your power is based on your riding type (track guys are going to want a different type of power delivery than the drag racers will), and then throttle response, etc. I could care less what my peak horsepower is- what I do care about is how usable it is on the track- period!

Finally, "simple" bolt-ons are not going to make huge increases in horsepower, especially when they are mismatched. For instance, if you buy a full exhaust, and claims are "5-10" hp gains, then you add a PCIII which claim hp increases of "5-10" hp, then a free flow air filter good for "5" hp, etc, that doesn't mean that you'll get 25 or so horsepower- likely, you'll only see the 5-10 hp that the PCIII freed up (with a decent map) with the free flowing exhaust and filter. I'm not using real numbers, so don't try to destroy me with "BS! I got horsepower with my exhaust", I'm only using the numbers to illustrate the point. You can also mismatch bolt-ons and go backwards, so to speak.

On to the velocity stacks: I've tried them on my GSXR and on our SV. The GSXR stacks are similar to the ones pictured on the first page of the thread, the SV are true velocity stacks that use screens with no filters. Neither of which provided any real gain in power that was worth the cost or the hassle (in the case of the SV stacks and making sure no dirt got to them). I saw the same horsepower with the velocity stacks as I did with the BMC pod filters on the SV, and the GSXR had only a very modest increase (not enough to justify the use of the stacks for the cost).

My experience was for purpose built race bikes- as for a street bike, ymmv. I never really saw any benefit to any mods to my street bikes past getting a slip-on and some suspension work. Anything else I thought was kinda over-kill for a street bike IMHO.

Bottom line, don't condemn Patrick because he doesn't personally own a dynometer, and don't deify Andy because he does. Both guys will get the job done for you. At the end of the day, both of these rare folks are here to grow their businesses, but do it in a way that places the benefit to their customers. Both of these guys go out of their way to educate the customer and try to make them happy as best they can. Too bad there aren't more shop owners like these guys! Trust me, after over 20 years in motorcycling, I can vouch that they are indeed rare!
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Old 01-21-2008, 03:09 AM   #96
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Save your time and money! Get a 750cc or 1000cc when you get the cash.
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:41 PM   #97
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Any body have the dyno numbers for a gsxr 600 with the stacks???

cant find any on the web
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:19 PM   #98
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Go to the Factory Pro website, click on Products, Suzuki and then GSXR600, there's a graph there that pretty much correlates with what I've seen.
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:45 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomLSTD View Post
Since this deteriorated, let me say this before I weigh in on my opinion about the stacks.

Andy is a top-notch tuner, and his skills are exemplary with his dyno. Contrary to people's opinions, shop owners like Andy don't make a boatload of money tuning bikes- Andy only does it because he loves doing that on Saturdays (and when he has to for a customer who wants it during the week). Andy, like many of us, and many, many other good mechanics, have opinions and usually express them openly with customers with whom they want to discuss the philosophies of mechanics/ tuning/ products, etc. It's a hoot when you can pop by a good shop and bench race or talk shop with the guys. Andy, like a very few other mechanics- Patrick being one- will only "push" products that they have had success with and are working well at the time and over time.

I respect both guys (Andy and Patrick), and patronize both businesses.

I have no idea why people get so wrapped up in what the dyno tells them their horsepower is... must be a phallic correlation. What is important in dyno tuning is how well the vehicle performs after the tuning is done. After getting a baseline tune, and working to "find" extra horsepower at the "big end" (or where ever you want it), it's a rare thing to "find" additional horsepower of any consequence by simply more tuning. What is important with tuning is tuning in how the power comes on, where your power is based on your riding type (track guys are going to want a different type of power delivery than the drag racers will), and then throttle response, etc. I could care less what my peak horsepower is- what I do care about is how usable it is on the track- period!

Finally, "simple" bolt-ons are not going to make huge increases in horsepower, especially when they are mismatched. For instance, if you buy a full exhaust, and claims are "5-10" hp gains, then you add a PCIII which claim hp increases of "5-10" hp, then a free flow air filter good for "5" hp, etc, that doesn't mean that you'll get 25 or so horsepower- likely, you'll only see the 5-10 hp that the PCIII freed up (with a decent map) with the free flowing exhaust and filter. I'm not using real numbers, so don't try to destroy me with "BS! I got horsepower with my exhaust", I'm only using the numbers to illustrate the point. You can also mismatch bolt-ons and go backwards, so to speak.

On to the velocity stacks: I've tried them on my GSXR and on our SV. The GSXR stacks are similar to the ones pictured on the first page of the thread, the SV are true velocity stacks that use screens with no filters. Neither of which provided any real gain in power that was worth the cost or the hassle (in the case of the SV stacks and making sure no dirt got to them). I saw the same horsepower with the velocity stacks as I did with the BMC pod filters on the SV, and the GSXR had only a very modest increase (not enough to justify the use of the stacks for the cost).

My experience was for purpose built race bikes- as for a street bike, ymmv. I never really saw any benefit to any mods to my street bikes past getting a slip-on and some suspension work. Anything else I thought was kinda over-kill for a street bike IMHO.

Bottom line, don't condemn Patrick because he doesn't personally own a dynometer, and don't deify Andy because he does. Both guys will get the job done for you. At the end of the day, both of these rare folks are here to grow their businesses, but do it in a way that places the benefit to their customers. Both of these guys go out of their way to educate the customer and try to make them happy as best they can. Too bad there aren't more shop owners like these guys! Trust me, after over 20 years in motorcycling, I can vouch that they are indeed rare!
Excuse me.....but that may just make TOO much sense for some of us.

Besides, my friend Fred said I'd get OVER 150 HP out of my Duc with the Stacks and Yosh exhaust. He wouldn't try to bs me!!!!!!

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Old 01-25-2008, 11:58 PM   #100
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Quote:
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Excuse me.....but that may just make TOO much sense for some of us.
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