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Old 07-21-2008, 09:58 AM   #221
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you can give it to me and i'll put it on my bike with a teeny amount of boost
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:24 AM   #222
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you can give it to me and i'll put it on my bike with a teeny amount of boost


lol
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Old 09-26-2008, 01:32 PM   #223
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UPDATE.....

For those of you old timers that remember this thread and my bike, we finally made some progress today tuning it. We had it making 295hp at 15lbs on PUMP GAS and when we dumped the C16 race fuel it, turned the boost up to 22lbs, it made 356hp. I was hoping for closer to 400hp at 22lbs but the dyno is very questionable and we were having problems with the dyno software etc so I decided to stop there. We can easily turn it up to 25lbs which should break the 400hp barrier but......For now, I am gonna let it ride until after the Texas Mile. I have a lot of stuff to do including installing a new wiring harness in the whole bike. Gonna get everything ready for the Mile at the end of the month. If it survives the mile, I will take it to Johnny Cheese's for a good part throttle tuning session and turn the boost up to 25lbs and shoot for 400..
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Old 09-26-2008, 01:35 PM   #224
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.... I was wondering what has been going on with the beast. will this still be a road ridden bike or is it strictly a speed machine now?
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Old 09-26-2008, 01:35 PM   #225
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Old 09-26-2008, 01:56 PM   #226
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.... I was wondering what has been going on with the beast. will this still be a road ridden bike or is it strictly a speed machine now?
OH yeah its gonna get ridden.....I am gonna ride the sh*t out of it. Just gonna take some time to get the bugs worked out of it. I am having a major electrical drain somewhere in the system and basically its discharging the battery the entire time its running. Everything in the charging system is new so.......I just got another harness for it so I am gonna re-wire the whole bike....hopefully get it done before the Tx Mile.....if not, I will run the 1000 at the mile.

Also I am gonna have some overheating issues with the busa around town. Even with 2 fans it still gets hot pretty quick when idling after its already at full temp, the charging system can't support the drain from the fans so the bike drains the battery. I will install the new(used) harness, make sure the fans are working, probably install a 2nd battery for my amperage and hopefully that fixes it.....I mean I won't be able to idle up and down the Strand at the Lone Star Rally anymore or anything but it should still be pretty rideable...Thats the whole point of it for me is street riding. I want a true 300hp PUMP GAS street bike....

Its been a LONG LONG road, I have had more problems with this build up that I don't even want to relive but finally its headed in the right direction....10 months later.
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Old 09-26-2008, 02:01 PM   #227
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Originally Posted by ZXALAN View Post
OH yeah its gonna get ridden.....I am gonna ride the sh*t out of it. Just gonna take some time to get the bugs worked out of it. I am having a major electrical drain somewhere in the system and basically its discharging the battery the entire time its running. Everything in the charging system is new so.......I just got another harness for it so I am gonna re-wire the whole bike....hopefully get it done before the Tx Mile.....if not, I will run the 1000 at the mile.

Also I am gonna have some overheating issues with the busa around town. Even with 2 fans it still gets hot pretty quick when idling after its already at full temp, the charging system can't support the drain from the fans so the bike drains the battery. I will install the new(used) harness, make sure the fans are working, probably install a 2nd battery for my amperage and hopefully that fixes it.....I mean I won't be able to idle up and down the Strand at the Lone Star Rally anymore or anything but it should still be pretty rideable...Thats the whole point of it for me is street riding. I want a true 300hp PUMP GAS street bike....

Its been a LONG LONG road, I have had more problems with this build up that I don't even want to relive but finally its headed in the right direction....10 months later.

i understand.... it has definetly been a loooong time. I would not have had the patience you have.
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Old 09-26-2008, 02:15 PM   #228
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i understand.... it has definetly been a loooong time. I would not have had the patience you have.

Yeah aside from the fact I pulled the motor 3 times looking for the ticking noise, then it spent 4 months at the shop, on the dyno a couple months ago the BRAND NEW turbo we had installed desided to suck the air filter into it destroying the wheels of the turbo, so I had to dump another $550 for a new center section for the turbo.....that along with the $1300 bill I had at the shop was just insult to injury on this project.....(for which is now into me for about $14k for the motor/turbo alone.)


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Old 09-26-2008, 02:35 PM   #229
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hey have you thought about upgrading your stator? with one of these?

http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...ndid=168346259
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Old 09-26-2008, 02:54 PM   #230
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Old 09-26-2008, 04:09 PM   #231
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good luck on a 300hp street rider turbo bike ...i know that battle

Was yours intercooled or water injection? Air to air intercooler is good for 15-16lbs on pump gas if the tune is right.......Ofcourse it trys to overheat every time you get stuck at a long light but.....LOL


No FEAR, I have that high output stator/rectifier you posted already.... Mine slings out plenty of vAC but once it gets converted to vDC and sent back to the battery, is where the voltage drops.....I have a serious drain somewhere but we can't find it. The odd thing is, everything on the bike works....even the low fuel light...... You would think if there is a short, something wouldn't be working but.....

Who knows, I start that battle tomorrow morning.. Basically stripping everything off the bike not related to making it run.
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Old 09-26-2008, 09:50 PM   #232
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Good luck bro, these problems are exactly why I havent done this yet
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Old 09-27-2008, 07:47 AM   #233
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Alan,
Glad to see it's finally back together.

As far as minimizing voltage drop / loss out of the R/R, cut the red and black wires coming out of the R/R and run them directly to the battery terminals.
That should keep you in the 13.2 - 13.6 volt region full time.

If you're not already running one, try installing a YTZ14S battery also.
It's about the same size as the stock one but has a lot more amperage, 230 CCA vs 175 CCA for the stock Busa battery.

Good luck!
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Old 09-27-2008, 04:44 PM   #234
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glad to hear you are making some progress on this monster Alan.
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Old 09-27-2008, 05:51 PM   #235
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, too bad I missed out on lunch the other day. I could have heard the update with out all of the reading.
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:09 PM   #236
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Hey Alan; good to hear about the project.

If the system isn't a lack of charging as Patrick stated, I do have a inductive pick up amp meter accurate to a hundredth of an amp if you'd like to borrow it. I use it weekly when checking out parasitic draw on our bmws, w a strict range of 20-40mA w the key off.
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:21 PM   #237
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Here is what I did today:

I started out by stripping the bike down to engine/frame only. I removed the entire original harness as well as all the aftermarket electrical junk except the 2nd fuel pump relay. I installed the harness and hooked up ONLY the essential plugs to make it run.(ie. no lighting other then gauges, no fans, no nothing).

First test, stator vAC only. 102v at 4000-5000 rpms(stock is over 65v)(this is a high output stator) Battery is brand new and holding 12.70-12.82v, never lower then 12.55v even after draining a while.

BARE ESSENTIALS hooked up, idle was 13.37-13.45v, 4k was 13.54v.
HEADLIGHT ADDED, idle was 13.00 4k was 13.35-13.50v.
TAIL LIGHT ADDED, idle was 12.90, 4k was 13.11-13.18v
HI BEAM ON, idle was 12.65v, 4k was 12.80-12.90

So as you can see, there still is just not for power, this is not including the fans(which I had running directly off of another battery), and no aftermarket stuff at all. This is pretty much back to square one I thought.....the harness made no difference. Then I decided to play with the fuel pump. I took it off circuit and ran it directly to my additional battery and the voltage on the bike was 13.84v at idle with all the lights on and 13.84v@4k. Then with the HI Beam on, it was 13.6v at idle. NOW we're getting some where. I tried hooking the pump back up eliminating the 2nd relay, just running off the factory fuel pump wires and the voltage was still 12.7-12.9v with lights on(no hi beam). So I wired the 2nd relay back in and the voltage was the same. Basically, this fuel pump is pulling down some nutz.. Its taking about .8v to run this pump. Not sure how many amps but its definetly pulling down the voltage. Even the electric fans only pull about .5v each.

IF anyone has any advice as to what to do about this issue, I am open to suggestions, I haven't even hooked up anything else and the voltage is low with the fuel pump. Would a second battery wired in help ease the blow of the fuel pump and accessories? I figured with the high output stator and HD reg/rect, it would just regulate up and supply voltage but....no dice. I went back to the oem reg/rec and I lost about .4v.

This solves the big mystery as to why I had decent voltage and no charging problems before I melted the motor even with all my extra electronics and why its low now, when I rebuilt the motor, changed turbo kits, I went to a bigger fuel pump. I know lots of people run these Pierburg pumps but I think the charging systems just suck on early busas.
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:31 PM   #238
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Well, how much more are you running at idle? the tail lamps, when stopped, will be illuminated. Maybe a turn signal. So if it wasn't charging well at idle at least it would increase when riding.

An additional battery ran in parrellel will only mask the problem. You are creating sufficient vAC(what is it at idle, no loads? Im assuming its higher then stock, otherwise that's the root of the problem) so the HD rectifier is the item that should be able to convert and provide the power required to SUSTAIN the proper operating voltage.

Losing half a volt to the pump must not be compensated by the rectifier. I was going to recommend starting to check voltage drops before you found the pump issue.

You could talk to the manufactorer and see if they can increase the output of the rectifier(assuming vAC is sufficient as mentioned before.)

or, go with those whom have done it and see what they do(there are alot on extremebusa.com that have experience and such. those national contacts/networking may be able to help w your dilema.)

that's about all I can offer for now.
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:34 PM   #239
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excuse me, misread.... you lost .4v when going to the oem regulator/rectifier.

talk w the manufactorer and see if they can build a higher output.

or, if it is a control issue as Patrick mentioned, do a voltage drop from the two wires that go to the rectifier. Second-guessing anything Patrick mentions usually wastes your time. He knows his chit.
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:44 PM   #240
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hello Zxalan, tough problem that your Busa has but not be realy hard on you & you expiriences (sorry for my poor english) !!!
after brief reading your post,i think it this way :
checking the charging system by measuring voltage is a good way too but not enough or not realy accurate b/c you know the available voltage and voltage drop after a load...but may not know charging system output in Amps-can you measure system output (spec approx 20-28amps) ???
and now you'd installed a none stock fuel pump-may require more amps to run it plus cooling fans runs more offen...system may be over loaded and voltage regulator/rectifier will get hot sooner and cut out / shut down charging system. aftermarket fuel pump may not suitable for stock charging system. As CaligoneTX has mentioned that an inductive pick-up ampmeter is great tool to check and know your bike system output,accross a load....
make sure you check all ground points r good,clean,tight...by voltmeter...
best wish to you Zxalan !!!!
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