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Old 11-11-2007, 06:10 PM   #1
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Average jet change

Is there a "rule of thumb" when adding a slip on to increase the jets buy?

Or does any one know about what jets a 98 600 with a pipe should have?

Thanks.


Oh, and it's a kerker carbon series if that helps.
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:10 PM   #2
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:26 PM   #3
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The '98 GSXR600s were the child of the SRAD gen of GSXR600's.
On that bike, I'd recommend a good carb kit, even with a slip on.
If that's not in the budget, shim the needle and open the fuel screws, leave the main jet alone unless it won't pull redline after you've made the other changes.
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
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The '98 GSXR600s were the child of the SRAD gen of GSXR600's.
On that bike, I'd recommend a good carb kit, even with a slip on.
If that's not in the budget, shim the needle and open the fuel screws, leave the main jet alone unless it won't pull redline after you've made the other changes.
I might look into the carb kit later since I plan on putting full exhaust on it eventually, It might be close on the jetting now becouse the bike had no pipe on it at all so there is a good indication that it was taken off not many people rob the stock muffler before they get rid of it.

I am really just consintrating on getting it running right now and I got the slip on cheaper than i could find a stock pipe.

If it runs like I'll try your sugg.

thanks
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Old 11-18-2007, 03:00 PM   #5
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Um,

I have the carbs apart digging the dinosour bones out of the float bowl ect.

I noticed it has 140 jets in it and my manuel say's their should be 125 main jets that seems like a huge increase to me (but this is my first go round with rebuilding a bike so)
does that seem like a normal jump in jet size for a pipe or would you need a lot of work for a 600 to have jets that size.

(side note) bike has been through a bunch of owners since it ran last no idea

thoughts i am just rambling
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Old 11-18-2007, 03:09 PM   #6
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140 seems big too me, if 125 is standard. But if someone were running it without airbox and with an open pipe it might be in the range. Take Patrick's advice, get it running with stock or near stock jetting, and then jet as needed to fill the weak spots in the powerband. The more you keep it like it came from the factory, the less there is that could go wrong.

Make sure you blow out all the carb cavities with pressurized air. Be sure to pull the idle mixture screws out of the bottom and MAKE SURE you pull out the screws, the springs, the flat steel washer, and the flat rubber washer. You'll need to make a small "hook" to get the washers and gaskets out. If you lose one, the bike will never idle right on all four cylinders.

Don't let the gaskets for the bowls sit in carb cleaner or they will expand and not fit anymore. Same goes for the fuel inlet stopper ruibber tip. Clean these two with gas or WD40.
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Old 11-18-2007, 03:16 PM   #7
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10 steps is usually close for a pipe, depending on the motor. 140 from a 125 sounds borderline rich, but until you run it with the pipe I would leave it alone.
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Old 11-18-2007, 10:41 PM   #8
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If we're only talking about a slip on, I wouldn't imagine a large change in backpressure; since most the pressure is built with cross overs in the stock manifold and collector on a mid cc bike. I never rejetted for slip on change on my 600 w/ no change other then sound...
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Old 11-19-2007, 07:28 AM   #9
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Since most of the new bikes are jetted very lean, and even a slip on will increase the exhaust flow, not changing the jetting is playing with fire.
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Old 11-19-2007, 09:35 AM   #10
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I might or might not have known what i was talking about when I said it had 140 main jets in it.

The jets under the air horn deal are 140's, the ones in the float bowl are 135's on the outside and 132.5's on the inside carbs.

If I didn't know any better looking at the inside's of the carbs I would say thet the bike was crashlanded on Degoba and left there. I have never seen carbs that bad.

But it still does it. starts right up in choke idles in choke but dies as soon as you try to opent he throttle but i didn't mess with it to much cause it was 10:00 when i got it back together. I might not have gotten all the crud out of the passege ways cause I don't have my air compressor at my house right now. i did the best i could with carb cleaner and an old tooth brush.
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Old 11-19-2007, 09:44 AM   #11
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Sounds like staggered jetting, 135 and 132.5 is your main. That is more like it than the 140's.

You are going to have to take those carbs all the way down and give them a good soaking overnight in carb cleaner.
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Old 11-19-2007, 09:44 AM   #12
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Did you run a needle or some wire through the passage ways and the jets? Its likely the pilot jet/passages and/or the idle air bleed circuit is still clogged. Some times, you have to dissassemble the carbs completely and soak them in chem dip overnight to get them clean....I have had some pesky ones in the past. The key is to run a wire through every hole you can find in em....

Sounds like they are not picking up fuel through the low speed circuits..
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Old 11-19-2007, 09:50 AM   #13
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I spent about 6 hours removing/cleaning/reinstalling them (but with interuptions)

I didn't run a needle and string through the passeges I will prob have to do that and soak them in cleaner over night.

Does anyone know how much a rebuild kit is? also the two rubber peices that go to the airbox lines on top do not like carb cleaner they are soft now and i had a hard time getting the hoses back on. And i will need float bowl gaskets next time around these look bad but don't leak so it's only a matter of time.
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Old 11-19-2007, 09:59 AM   #14
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Those rubber "t"s aren't in the carb kit. I'm not real certain you can even buy them.
I probably have some from some of our junk carbs, if I do you can have them.


+1 on the carb soaking. The low speed passages are so small that they clog easily.


The parts I'd recommend replacing are as follows: inlet needles & pilot screw o-rings.
If the float bowl gaskets look good, they are designed to be reusable.


I'd also take a long hard look at the emulsion tube and make sure it's not worn excessively.


I've got the o-rings and inlet needles at the shop, just bring up your old ones so we can match them.


Does the bike have a carb kit in it? You can tell by looking at the slide needles. If they're adjustable than it does.
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Old 11-19-2007, 11:29 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Those rubber "t"s aren't in the carb kit. I'm not real certain you can even buy them.
I probably have some from some of our junk carbs, if I do you can have them.


+1 on the carb soaking. The low speed passages are so small that they clog easily.


The parts I'd recommend replacing are as follows: inlet needles & pilot screw o-rings.
If the float bowl gaskets look good, they are designed to be reusable.


I'd also take a long hard look at the emulsion tube and make sure it's not worn excessively.


I've got the o-rings and inlet needles at the shop, just bring up your old ones so we can match them.


Does the bike have a carb kit in it? You can tell by looking at the slide needles. If they're adjustable than it does.
I am not sure if they are adjustable(the needles) they don'y look like they are. The float bowl gaskets are expanded and i had a of a time getting them back in and seated(creative use of super glue) so i will definately need some. Also float bowl screws( I had to cut slots in some of them with a dremel to get them off becouse they were stripped out by the previous owner.)

I will most likely have to wait till next weekend to take it back apart(family coming to our house for thanksgiving)

I'll come but and get needles ect. from you Thanks man.
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Old 11-19-2007, 12:00 PM   #16
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May not be a "jet kit" per say, may have just made their own, like I did. Usually you'll find some shims under the needles, but they may have just upped the mains.

Not unusual on the bowl screws; and impact driver will help a lot. I've done the same thing slotting the screws before.
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Old 11-19-2007, 12:07 PM   #17
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float bowl screws are notorius for stripping. i would bet 90% of people who try to take them off strip on the first time they try. screwdrivers dont work well, imo. i use a phillips bit in a bit holder, on a 6" exstention on a ratchet. if you push down while turning, they usually pop free without too much hassle...a better way to go is replace the phillips head screws with allen head ones. (make sure the thread is the same) esp. if you plan on doing reguler carb tinkering.

ignore these 1st two pics. the third one shows a regular needle (left) and an adjustable one (right). you adjust them by changing where the circlip goes and where/how many washers to use. i dont know much about carb tuning though...thats about it.

as far as cleaning the jets/passages, i like to find some electrical wire with very fine copper wire in it. it usually works good for getting in those little spots.

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Old 11-19-2007, 02:52 PM   #18
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Mine looks like the needle on the right, on the needle part but i didn't take the needle out of the slide to see if it had adjustable clip positions.

Also on the inside of the carb there are tool marks were it looks like someone enlargened air ports ect.
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Old 11-19-2007, 03:30 PM   #19
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Raising the needle allows the main jst to come in sooner, kinda like a bigger accellerator pump cam. Smaller tapers do the same thing, but you need the right jet. Off idle stumbles can sometimes be cured with the air bleed; or a larger intermediate jet. Lighter, lower geared bikes can benefit from changing the slide springs as well.

Sounds like someone has been in there before; your best bet is to either soak or get in there with compressed air and some fine wire and clean.

Also could be someone has it messed up bad enough that they gave up; getting the stock jetting info would be beneficial to compare to.
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