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Old 10-22-2007, 08:08 PM   #1
CaligoneTx
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Muzzy Exhaust Q for BigBoyz/Muzzy Owners

Alrighty; Finally got my system in to replace what remains of my exhaust on the busa, but there isn't a clamp between the header and intermediate. It has spring straps but no spring

So, can I twist safety wire to keep it together? I understand the vibration qualities of a spring set up but once the block off plates get in I'm tearing the busa up... I can install a spring later.... trying to get this B together to see if I can make the three sistas run this weekend.

Ideas? Or does a sponser know if they have a spring for this?

3.25" spread, not gonna be taking the intermediate off for racing so if it could stretch/fit I'll take it...

T-anks
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Old 10-22-2007, 08:16 PM   #2
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Whats up bro, I,m purdy sure I have some, I will have to get them out but they should fit, I can check tomorrow I might even have some parts delivered to the shop from your work and can send them back with the driver, hows that for service
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Old 10-22-2007, 08:22 PM   #3
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I got one you can have. I never liked the muzzy on my busa's. yosh or for big motor HMF
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Old 10-22-2007, 08:27 PM   #4
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i wouldn't safety wire it......sounds like tim's got you covered
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Old 10-22-2007, 08:30 PM   #5
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I have a full titanium Muzzy on one of mine and its kick , whouda thought a Kawasaki pipe on a Suzuki
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Old 10-22-2007, 08:53 PM   #6
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Muzzy pipes make great power on a busas......Yosh pipes on the other hand, suck and make no power....

You can get some springs from an autopart store just to get you by, some heavy stainless throttle return springs for carbureated cars will work for the time being but you need to get the right one eventually.....After the springs heat cycle a few times, they lose their tension...
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Old 10-22-2007, 09:37 PM   #7
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I think Mr Ellis saving the day here... Wish I worked for our parts department to ensure the parts get to him a bit quicker(would they fit under the cowl of a busa?)

Oh wait, I work on service.... Sorry.... it's like a separate company, they don't even let us walk back there anymore; they watch us like hawks; so AS we walk back there we make sure we're seen... two finger salutes...
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Old 10-22-2007, 09:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZXALAN View Post
Muzzy pipes make great power on a busas......Yosh pipes on the other hand, suck and make no power....

You can get some springs from an autopart store just to get you by, some heavy stainless throttle return springs for carbureated cars will work for the time being but you need to get the right one eventually.....After the springs heat cycle a few times, they lose their tension...
I'm not sure what dyno you used, but I have had just about every pipe ever made on busa's including the full ti muzzy, and it made the least hp :dontknow:. Of corse this is just with my experience on the same dyno every time. On stock bore the yosh made 5 more hp then the muzzy, on the 1397 the hmf big-bird made 25 more than the yosh, and 35 more than the muzzy. Again, these were from dyno numbers not "seat of the pants", I'm not trying to argue, just giving advice. The muzzy is like 1/2 the price, so bang for the buck, the muzzy is probably a good noise maker.

Here is a pic of the spring you need, use the glove for size reference

Muzzy Exhaust Q for BigBoyz/Muzzy Owners
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Old 10-22-2007, 10:03 PM   #9
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Good.......
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Old 10-23-2007, 06:37 PM   #10
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Well, all I know is I have built 10 or so busa engines, all combos, including a 1507 that made 235 on pump gas....I have dynoed more busas then I can count....but on different dynoes etc....more importantly, I have raced and tuned a lot of busas at the track and MPH tells the story....

Most powerful busa pipes:
1) BDE Gen 3 or street meg
2) Ti Force sumo
3) Murry Sidewinder
4) HMF big bird
5) Tsugiki(MSP's version)
6) Akro race
7) Muzzy stainless(although I prefer the Ti, I have never played with one)


Pretty much after those pipes, all the rest are not worth spending money on, including Yosh. The old Hindle is ok but....

I personally installed and tuned a Muzzy stainless/carbon oval on a 01 busa, small box mod, all short stacks, PAIR sucker mod and a PCIIIr with a custom map made 168rwhp, came in at 152hp SAE. same dyno, same day. WOT AFR at 12.8-1....I never had that kind of gain with those mods on any other pipe under $900.... A muzzy is good for a solid 8hp gain as long as the AFR is still decent. Not bad for a $500.

On my old 1507, it made 224 with a yosh race duplex, switched to an HMF bigbird and it made 234hp before mapping changes, 237hp after....same dyno, different day.

BDE Gen 3 will run the most mph at the strip hands down....
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Old 10-28-2007, 01:15 PM   #11
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DONE...

Here is the muzzy; painted the collector back and intermediate; somewhat out of boredom at work; Pics from my phone at dusk with the leds I hadn't been able to take good pics of yet...
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Old 10-28-2007, 01:16 PM   #12
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I turned the tre back off with 5 gear mapping for lower gears and found more power vs running they system bolt-in. With this cold weather its really hard to keep that front tire down; Stood almost straight up from a power wheelie Friday night running alcohol in the tank...(in me that is...)
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Old 10-28-2007, 01:24 PM   #13
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Old 10-28-2007, 06:27 PM   #14
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raised the rear back up so I'm trying to get it comfortable again; did jimmy's ride route last weekend with lonestar954 and another
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Old 10-29-2007, 02:31 PM   #15
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How does it run without a PCIII? any surging or bucking anywhere? They will usually run really fat up top and lean in the low-midrange stock....Normally if you slap a pipe on them, they will run OK up top but will be lean down low and in the mid, at part throttle and full throttle.... I wouldn't beat on it TOO hard without at least checking the AFR at WOT... Also you can probably cut an inch or two off the intermediate pipe, that will bring the can in some and not stick out so far out the back...Pipe looks good though....that paint is not likely to hold up though to the heat..
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:40 PM   #16
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Surges on me a bit at a low rpm; cruisin near 3k...

I thought about cutting that pipe; since the mount is in the can though I thought about drillin the rivots and cutting the back. I'd lose the muzzy symbol but I'm not being paid to advertise
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:42 PM   #17
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1300 deg paint we cured; didn't like plain stained look. I didn't paint up the header pipes, just the intermediate. Time will tell, maybe by the time that pain peels it can be repainted when the rest of the paint flakes off the right side of the bike courtesy of the drag strip off of beltway 8
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Old 10-30-2007, 03:19 PM   #18
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Yeah DON'T cut the can, just take an inch of the mid pipe, maybe 1 1/2". before the pipe starts to bend... If you are gonna do it, I would before the strap that holds the can to the bracket rubs its mark on the can in that position, because if you move the can later, you will see the marks..

Or just leave it as is...

Yeah I figured it would stumble some down low, or atleast get a lean surge...The bikes are very lean at 3000rpms in the 2/5/10% throttle ranges, even from the factory...It will get even worse when you do the airbox mod. I would just "ride around" that area for now until you can get it tuned.


www.johnnycheese.com is about the best busa tuner around here....(texas)

Cut the airbox before you dyno so he can tune it once.....you will make 165-167hp...
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Old 10-30-2007, 04:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZXALAN View Post
Yeah DON'T cut the can, just take an inch of the mid pipe, maybe 1 1/2". before the pipe starts to bend... If you are gonna do it, I would before the strap that holds the can to the bracket rubs its mark on the can in that position, because if you move the can later, you will see the marks..

Or just leave it as is...

Yeah I figured it would stumble some down low, or atleast get a lean surge...The bikes are very lean at 3000rpms in the 2/5/10% throttle ranges, even from the factory...It will get even worse when you do the airbox mod. I would just "ride around" that area for now until you can get it tuned.


www.johnnycheese.com is about the best busa tuner around here....(texas)

Cut the airbox before you dyno so he can tune it once.....you will make 165-167hp...
Air box has been cut;

The mount for the can is welded into the side; Id either have to cut the weld off or cut the can itself.
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:15 PM   #20
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If you decide to cut the can it is pretty easy; just go slow and take your time to mark the rivet pattern on the cap. We did my buddies Kawi Muzzy and it looks like factory.

We just re-riveted the emblem back on when we were done.

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