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Old 05-19-2016, 07:35 PM   #1
pinball
I got slow
 
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Mobil 1 4t Analysis

Sent in a sample from my last oil change on the VStrom. Results came in today.

0720DL1000 050116 Redacted zpseenauroc
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Shelnutt thinks mechanics should work for free
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:37 PM   #2
Truckin_Thumper
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Meh, i'll stick to dino
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:46 PM   #3
pinball
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Quote:
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Meh, i'll stick to dino
You may be on to something. I've run the 4t in it since I got it and usually run my changes out to 5k miles. I've always had to add a bit between changes, but it never concerned me because the DL forums all say it's normal for the bike to use a little oil.

Now jump to cars:

I've run three different synthetics through my girlfriend's car, and each one ended up over a quart low by 3000 miles. Not a bit of smoke, either. Put dino oil in it on the last change. 1100 miles later, and it doesn't appear to have lost any. Weird.
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:00 PM   #4
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well....im a KLR rider at heart, so I like to be cheap....
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:57 PM   #5
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I run Mobil 1 4T in my 06 Concours. 5k between changes. Shifts like buttah. I run Mobil 1 5/20 in my Focus. 8k between changes. Magnetic drainplug on my 96 bandit 600 made me a believer. Every oil but Mobil 1 left a metallic residue on the drainplug. Never had to add Mobil 1 to any of my cars in between changes, except 1 and that was a 91 5.0 which had a dual pan with no crossover so you ended up with a quart that was unavailable to the dipstick. I fully expect to get 200 k out of any engine with Mobil 1.
1987 Escort GT 287K
1991 Mustang LX 5.0 197K
1993 Aerostar with the dreaded 3.0 V6 177K
2002 Focus 154K
2007 Focus 100K as of yesterday
1991 ZX11 74K
1996 Bandit 600 73K
1998 Bandit 1200 85K
Additionally- All 3 bikes had the original clutch still going strong at the time of sale. Bikes - all I performed was basic maintenance myself such as valve adjustments, spark plug changes, and oil changes, never any failures or damage of drivetrain, engine.
Cars- The usual timing belts, chains at 100k. No engine damage or failures. I did have a roller lifter clip snap in half, causing the lifter to rotate sideways and grind a lobe down, on the Escort GT, I figure from it so badly. Car made it home 120 miles, on 3 cylinders, fine. Replaced the head and drove it another 130K. You can use any type of oil you want as long as you keep it clean but most synthetic oils will not break down until 300 degrees while dino oil will fry at 250. The only dino I would consider running in a bike would be Rotella for diesel engines as it has no friction modifiers and has zinc and phosphates that are not allowed in gas engine oil for cars. Zinc and phosphate are crucial to lubricating flat tappet camshafts. By the way, I don't baby anything I have, every vehicle I have owned sees redline often.
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Old 05-20-2016, 09:22 AM   #6
Kacfiz
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Cool, good to know. I run the same in the Gladius which, from what I've read, has basically the same engine.
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:25 PM   #7
BryanE
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I run 4t racing in all my race bikes and will not change. I love it and cheaper than Amsoil, and Motul
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Old 05-24-2016, 12:34 PM   #8
Chubby Racer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinball View Post
I've run three different synthetics through my girlfriend's car, and each one ended up over a quart low by 3000 miles. Not a bit of smoke, either. Put dino oil in it on the last change. 1100 miles later, and it doesn't appear to have lost any. Weird.
Weird indeed. I'm always quick to blame PCV systems for oil consumption on modern cars. After that, valve seals. My '15 SRT8 GC puffs oil on startup in 1 of 10 starts and has since it only had 13k on the clock. It doesn't have a PCV catch can yet.
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:24 PM   #9
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I run bradd Penn green oil in all my stuff. It held up to my 300 hp drag bike
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