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Old 09-28-2015, 04:10 PM   #1
TigerGenetics
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Bike won't start, with buzzing noise

So my 2008 Honda CBR600RR will not start. It has been awhile since I have ridden, but have at least cranked it up and let it run several times. Actually was able to ride it about a month ago. It stays connected to a trickle charger, but go out today and the battery seems to be completely dead. I get it charged a little bit and try to start it, all I get is a loud buzzing sound from the starter relay. I did a quick DVM check on the idle batter and I only have a little more than 6V... This will be the 4th battery I have needed to replace in about 2 years. Is there something quirky with my bike or is this just how CBR's are supposed to behave (my Yamaha never once had this issue). I've tried searching and I have found so many different things, but none really relate to the distinct buzzing sound I am hearing from the relay. Any ideas?
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Old 09-28-2015, 04:56 PM   #2
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The battery needs to be fully charged, if not the starter relay will pull in and out rapidly, which is the buzzing sound you're hearing.
Once the bike starts take your volt meter and check the charging system output at idle and 5000 rpm and post your readings.
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Old 09-28-2015, 04:56 PM   #3
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One of my bikes had similar problem and the rectifier was bad causing to stator to go bad and killing the batteries...
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:14 PM   #4
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:21 PM   #5
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Push start it!
Hard to do that with flat roads by myself
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:22 PM   #6
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One of my bikes had similar problem and the rectifier was bad causing to stator to go bad and killing the batteries...
How easy is it to replace the rectifier (assuming it is a single part). Not super well versed on motorcycle maintenance, but I'm pretty mechanically inclined and could do it if it doesn't require specialized tools.
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:25 PM   #7
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The battery needs to be fully charged, if not the starter relay will pull in and out rapidly, which is the buzzing sound you're hearing.
Once the bike starts take your volt meter and check the charging system output at idle and 5000 rpm and post your readings.
It will be a little later, but right now, the battery is reading 10.6V from my DVM. It has been charging for about 2 hours now.
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:28 PM   #8
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It's not difficult at all. However, before you go throwing parts at it I'd recommend charging the battery you have, or failing that, replace it.
After the bike has a fully charged battery, start it and run the 2 voltage output tests I posted earlier. That will indicate whether there is a deeper issue at hand.
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerGenetics View Post
It stays connected to a trickle charger, but go out today and the battery seems to be completely dead.
Throw the charger in the trash and get a good one.
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerGenetics View Post
How easy is it to replace the rectifier (assuming it is a single part). Not super well versed on motorcycle maintenance, but I'm pretty mechanically inclined and could do it if it doesn't require specialized tools.
Very easy, but like Patrick said. Make sure you have a fully charged battery first and then you can properly test your bike
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:57 PM   #11
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OK. I have a new battery ready to go, but I'm not wanting to put it in just yet until I can fully troubleshoot the rest of the system. Don't know if it's paranoia or what, but I don't want to put the new battery in and then have it go bad from something else.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:00 PM   #12
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Throw the charger in the trash and get a good one.
What do you recommend? The one I am using now is called "Battery Tender Junior". It isn't the one that has a "bench top" design, it is just the plug and the wires to the battery. When plugged in it flashes between red and green, never stays constant red or green.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:00 PM   #13
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You need to have a good battery to test the system.
Go ahead and instll it and run those checks. Make sure to disconnect the negative cable first, and connect it last when replacing the battery.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:30 PM   #14
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You need to have a good battery to test the system.
Go ahead and instll it and run those checks. Make sure to disconnect the negative cable first, and connect it last when replacing the battery.
OK so I just ran the measurements.

Idle: 14.06V
5000 RPM: 14.19V
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:41 PM   #15
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:47 PM   #16
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I thought those numbers lined up with what I have read. So I know I haven't had the awful luck of 4 bad batteries...I hope. What should be my next step? Better battery tender?
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:52 PM   #17
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What kind of batteries are you buying?
A Battery Tender Jr. should be more than sufficient to keep a battery charged.
Do you have any accessories installed that may be creating an amp draw when the key is off?
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:56 PM   #18
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The first one was factory (i'm assuming, it was used). I was able to get it swapped out after the first week when it died on me at the dealership for free. Second was one from Cycle Gear. It started showing signs of poor power after a few months. The next one was from Advanced Auto, and it turns out it was probably the wrong one (9S vs 10S). This new one I just picked up from Batteries Plus.

I have no accessories at all on this bike. It is fully stock, the only thing that is aftermarket is the windscreen and tank pad that the previous owner installed.
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:03 PM   #19
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It's possible the Tender may not be charing fully.
I doubt you have a mA setting on your dvm.
Bring the tTender by and we'll test it's output, no charge.
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:14 PM   #20
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It's possible the Tender may not be charing fully.
I doubt you have a mA setting on your dvm.
Bring the tTender by and we'll test it's output, no charge.
I'll definitely try and swing by tomorrow.

My DVM actually does have a mA and even a uA setting. This ain't a Radio Shack DVM I'm using.
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