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Old 08-19-2015, 09:39 AM   #21
SuperDave392
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Got the motomaster rear rotor in today, installed the SM front fender, and trimmed the fork guards to fit the SM wheel/tire

The color on the front fender is a little more off white than the rest of white plastics on the bike, so i may have to go with another brand.

Last items i need to finish this build:
Longer Ti rotor bolts
front and rear sprocket spacers

I'm getting the seat recovered today at work. I'll post it up when its done.
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:29 PM   #22
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looking good!
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:50 PM   #23
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Those wheels!
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:09 PM   #24
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Got the white plastics on. It looks 100 times better! I'll have to pick out some graphics in the near future.

Next big update will be this weekend.
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Old 08-23-2015, 05:38 PM   #25
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Got the seat done.
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDave392 View Post
I'll have to pick out some graphics in the near future.
I knows a guy who knows a guy. Let me know when you ready and we can get some custom ones done locally for both of our since its the same template.
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Old 08-25-2015, 04:08 AM   #27
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Dude... nice bike!
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:34 PM   #28
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Just waiting on the rear sprocket spacer to get here on Wednesday, and this thing is ready to ride!
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:25 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tankmonkey View Post
5" marchesini but I run the 165 Metzler slicks for racing, so not sure how that compares to the 150 Conti's. I used to run the Conti's on my old KTM 620 motard, but that's been a while ago now.

I'm running a standard RK 520 x-ring, but the front sprocket is flipped (sprocket offset facing out away from the case) and there are spacers (washers) between the rear sprocket and the carrier.

I definitely chew up the side of the tire with the chain, and to run the various gearing options, I had to remove the lower chain guide so it wouldn't interfere with the wheel (or tire warmer). it's a very close thing.

the 5" is wide enough that you have to know the trick to get the rim on the bike without scratching the out of it.

what front brake setup did you go with for your build?
So i finally received the rear sprocket spacer that i need and the chain is smacking the lower chain guide mount on the bottom of the swing arm. Do you run into this issue? Have you modified anything else? I'm thinking i might be able to trim the stock guide but havent tried it yet.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDave392 View Post
So i finally received the rear sprocket spacer that i need and the chain is smacking the lower chain guide mount on the bottom of the swing arm. Do you run into this issue? Have you modified anything else? I'm thinking i might be able to trim the stock guide but havent tried it yet.
No, not at all. The rear mount is well outboard of the chain and the chain pretty much splits the front mount perfectly. No evidence of slap or wear on either. How loose are you running your chain? Without the lower guide, you may need it closer to streetbike-level chain tension rather than dirtbike loose.
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Old 09-05-2015, 02:20 PM   #31
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Got it all straightened out. Just had to trim the lower chain guide. This bike handles much better than my 04 wr450 SM that i had.
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Old 09-05-2015, 03:14 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDave392 View Post
Got it all straightened out. Just had to trim the lower chain guide. This bike handles much better than my 04 wr450 SM that i had.
Seems to be working correctly, LOL...
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Old 09-05-2015, 04:53 PM   #33
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u shoulda hit us up, we were riding out in pearland today. we plan on doing it again tomorrow too.
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:03 PM   #34
SuperDave392
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Ok, so i removed my cylinder head to send to CRF's only and i may have messed up. I had the engine at TDC, then for some reason i removed the cam chain tensioner. Then i tried to remove the cam gear bolt, and when i turned the bolt, the engine rotated slightly. I then rotated the engine counter clockwise to get the crank mark lined up with the punch mark on the case. Next i inserted a screw driver in the cam gear hole and wedged it to the frame so the engine wouldn't turn over, then removed the bolt. I had to spin the engine over slightly more to remove the other cam bolt. I then removed the cylinder head.

My question is.. how do i know that my piston is back at TDC on the comp stroke, and how in the will i know if my cam is in the right position in relation to the timing mark on the cam gear when i reinstall it?

Did i mess something up by doing what i did? Someone help!
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:38 PM   #35
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Bike is back together, and running great with the new piston and valves.
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