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Old 08-10-2015, 08:32 AM   #1
SuperDave392
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450X Supermoto Build

Thought i'd share my build thread for the 450X for those that are interested. Nothing exciting yet, but my wheels will be in later today. Marchesini's in gold. some titanuim bolts.. and alot of wasted money.

http://supermotojunkie.com/showthrea...upermoto-Build
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Old 08-10-2015, 10:55 PM   #2
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Got the wheels in today.
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:45 PM   #3
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Sweet! The gold looks awesome!
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:56 AM   #4
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Just dropped off the wheels to have the tires mounted. I'll post some pics later tonight when they are back on the bike. All of the missing pieces should be here by Saturday.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:59 AM   #5
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I'm so Jelly, i cant wait for my wheels to get here.
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:53 PM   #6
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these bikes make great supermotos.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:39 PM   #7
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Dude those wheels are fn sick
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Old 08-13-2015, 10:29 PM   #8
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Shes a roller.. Just waiting on brakes and fender to get here. I also have a chain/tire issue to correct. Its going to take a combo of sprocket spacers, a chain block, and some redneck ingenuity to fix, just have to figure out which of those will fix it.
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Old 08-13-2015, 10:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tankmonkey View Post
these bikes make great supermotos.
Nice! What is your rear wheel/tire/chain setup? I'm have a little clearance issue.

My rear wheel is 4.25" 150/60 Conti SM RK? narrow o-ring
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Old 08-14-2015, 05:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDave392 View Post
Nice! What is your rear wheel/tire/chain setup? I'm have a little clearance issue.

My rear wheel is 4.25" 150/60 Conti SM RK? narrow o-ring
5" marchesini but I run the 165 Metzler slicks for racing, so not sure how that compares to the 150 Conti's. I used to run the Conti's on my old KTM 620 motard, but that's been a while ago now.

I'm running a standard RK 520 x-ring, but the front sprocket is flipped (sprocket offset facing out away from the case) and there are spacers (washers) between the rear sprocket and the carrier.

I definitely chew up the side of the tire with the chain, and to run the various gearing options, I had to remove the lower chain guide so it wouldn't interfere with the wheel (or tire warmer). it's a very close thing.

the 5" is wide enough that you have to know the trick to get the rim on the bike without scratching the out of it.

what front brake setup did you go with for your build?
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:12 AM   #11
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5" marchesini but I run the 165 Metzler slicks for racing, so not sure how that compares to the 150 Conti's. I used to run the Conti's on my old KTM 620 motard, but that's been a while ago now.

I'm running a standard RK 520 x-ring, but the front sprocket is flipped (sprocket offset facing out away from the case) and there are spacers (washers) between the rear sprocket and the carrier.

I definitely chew up the side of the tire with the chain, and to run the various gearing options, I had to remove the lower chain guide so it wouldn't interfere with the wheel (or tire warmer). it's a very close thing.

the 5" is wide enough that you have to know the trick to get the rim on the bike without scratching the out of it.

what front brake setup did you go with for your build?
Nice, thanks for the info. It sounds like its something i'm going to have to play with until i get it right. I decided to go EBC floating rotor for now, until i feel like spending the coin for a MotoMaster or Beringer setup.
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:53 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Nice, thanks for the info. It sounds like its something i'm going to have to play with until i get it right. I decided to go EBC floating rotor for now, until i feel like spending the coin for a MotoMaster or Beringer setup.
well, you can probably avoid chain rub completely by running a non-o-ring chain and spacing everything outboard as much as possible. but those non-o-ring chains require a lot of love and attention or they'll get loose and slap sideways anyway. with the o-rings, even with spacers, you might get some chew on the edge of your tire, no matter what. I've seen chain blocks you can mount on your swingarm to help with that, but no idea how well they work. for my money, as long as the chain isn't chewing up the lip of the wheel, I don't worry about it much beyond the normal precautions (spacers, keeping the chain tension adjusted, etc.).

if you're just running the street, an oversize rotor/caliper relocation bracket/quality pads will get you where you need to be. that's all I ever had on my KTM.

my last 2 motards had/have the motomaster 4 pot setup/floating rotor with high-end radial masters (braking on my wr450 and magura on this crf450x). all very nice stuff, but a little overkill for the street, since these bikes are so light. the beringer stuff is top shelf for sure, but expensive. I use beringer pads, though, since it's hard to find the motomaster pads in race compound (and the old zx-6 pad pattern the motomasters are based on doesn't seem to come in a modern race compound from other vendors that I can find).

in general, most of the tracks here in texas don't seem to have a lot hard braking zones (at motard speeds), but if you're racing (or do a lot of passing on the brakes at track days), they seem worthwhile.
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Old 08-16-2015, 09:22 AM   #13
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well, you can probably avoid chain rub completely by running a non-o-ring chain and spacing everything outboard as much as possible. but those non-o-ring chains require a lot of love and attention or they'll get loose and slap sideways anyway. with the o-rings, even with spacers, you might get some chew on the edge of your tire, no matter what. I've seen chain blocks you can mount on your swingarm to help with that, but no idea how well they work. for my money, as long as the chain isn't chewing up the lip of the wheel, I don't worry about it much beyond the normal precautions (spacers, keeping the chain tension adjusted, etc.).

if you're just running the street, an oversize rotor/caliper relocation bracket/quality pads will get you where you need to be. that's all I ever had on my KTM.

my last 2 motards had/have the motomaster 4 pot setup/floating rotor with high-end radial masters (braking on my wr450 and magura on this crf450x). all very nice stuff, but a little overkill for the street, since these bikes are so light. the beringer stuff is top shelf for sure, but expensive. I use beringer pads, though, since it's hard to find the motomaster pads in race compound (and the old zx-6 pad pattern the motomasters are based on doesn't seem to come in a modern race compound from other vendors that I can find).

in general, most of the tracks here in texas don't seem to have a lot hard braking zones (at motard speeds), but if you're racing (or do a lot of passing on the brakes at track days), they seem worthwhile.

Do you think its a problem if the chain is still touching the tire just a hair?
I flipped the front sprocket, and spaced out the rear with washers.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Do you think its a problem if the chain is still touching the tire just a hair?
I flipped the front sprocket, and spaced out the rear with washers.
the chain will make its own clearance, so a slight kiss against the tire won't normally be an issue (within reason, of course). you can see the amount of rub I get with my set up - this is a metzeler racetec sm k2 slick in a 165/55-17 on a 5" marchesini rim.

for perspective, I added a shot showing how much chain-to-tire clearance I have to start with (bearing in mind that the chain has already chewed away a bit of the tire edge). you'll notice that the rim lip doesn't have any chain slap marks, which is what you are really trying to avoid (that, and taking too much rubber off the edge of the tire, obviously).

I can't really tell from your pics how close the rim is to the chain, but considering the clearance I have on mine, I'd have to think it is enough. any chewing on the tire should be superficial (keep your chain adjusted, though).

if you're a heavy engine-braker, or are just paranoid about your rim, you might also consider one of these to gain a bit more clearance: http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/prod...oducts_id/2529. and there is always the chain block option - you'll have to drill your swingarm to mount it, but that may be worth it for the peace of mind.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:23 AM   #15
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Thanks a bunch for the pics. I think you may have spaced your rear sprocket a bit more than me. I think thats what i need to do. I used two brake banjo washers on each sprocket bolt for mock up, to give you an idea of how much i spaced it out. I bought one of those spacers months ago from CRFS Only, thinking i would need it but never did. Since then i moved, and i cant find that spacer to save my life!

Quote:
the chain will make its own clearance, so a slight kiss against the tire won't normally be an issue (within reason, of course). you can see the amount of rub I get with my set up - this is a metzeler racetec sm k2 slick in a 165/55-17 on a 5" marchesini rim.

for perspective, I added a shot showing how much chain-to-tire clearance I have to start with (bearing in mind that the chain has already chewed away a bit of the tire edge). you'll notice that the rim lip doesn't have any chain slap marks, which is what you are really trying to avoid (that, and taking too much rubber off the edge of the tire, obviously).

I can't really tell from your pics how close the rim is to the chain, but considering the clearance I have on mine, I'd have to think it is enough. any chewing on the tire should be superficial (keep your chain adjusted, though).

if you're a heavy engine-braker, or are just paranoid about your rim, you might also consider one of these to gain a bit more clearance: http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/prod...oducts_id/2529. and there is always the chain block option - you'll have to drill your swingarm to mount it, but that may be worth it for the peace of mind.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Thanks a bunch for the pics. I think you may have spaced your rear sprocket a bit more than me. I think thats what i need to do. I used two brake banjo washers on each sprocket bolt for mock up, to give you an idea of how much i spaced it out. I bought one of those spacers months ago from CRFS Only, thinking i would need it but never did. Since then i moved, and i cant find that spacer to save my life!
mine has a single washer between the sprocket and the carrier (at each bolt).

I'd track down the CS spacer or pick up a new one and go from there - the rear sprocket spacing will be determined by where the front sprocket ends up once it is spaced and the offset flipped - this is particularly important if you run aluminum rear sprockets (I use steel, personally).

I doubt it is an issue, but you might want to confirm that you have the wheel spacers installed on the correct sides - my marchesini has a flared spacer on the chain side and a straight spacer on the brake side. I think stock CRF uses the same size spacers on both sides. not sure whether the marchesini is actually using different width spacers, but it is possible a slight offset is built in for for clearance purposes.

good luck!
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Old 08-17-2015, 05:47 AM   #17
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For cheap brake m/c, look into trx450 master.
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:42 PM   #18
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For cheap brake m/c, look into trx450 master.
Funny you say that. I had one on my wr450 and it worked great. I'm going to give the bike a shake down once its back up and running and see what needs to be improved.

Got the front rotor mounted tonight. F'ing Motostrano didnt include my rear rotor in the shipment so now the wait continues
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:51 PM   #19
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Nice.
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:57 AM   #20
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Got a gold caliper bracket, and longer Ti rotor bolts coming. Oddly enough, its from the same guy i bought the wheels from
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