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Old 05-01-2015, 12:14 PM   #21
Jae
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...although, looking at this picture, their mufflers aren't exactly centered under the tail either.
attr ex02 109
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Old 05-01-2015, 01:48 PM   #22
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You can put a contrasting color strip on the edge to hide some of that.........
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:43 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jae View Post
...and this is why OCD me off. At about 5', the bike looks perfect. Then I start looking...

Little dimples like this, scattered about
2b18a4f5ec4bdb7316de4bda77ad0fc6

little bit of bleed on the stripe
a7ab78d7f6bd8412e92e9c87dfd71a13

My finger is where the center should be
4eba9cb92651641197e2df433ed84623

jagged edges on the stripes in various places (this is actually 3-for-1: dimples, jagged edges, AND some bleed)
9a2b475ce94a6d01e28575f486c7f9e8

Stripe on the tail is actually centered... I think my exhaust (and/or subframe) may be tweeked... I've been considering a GP-style low exit exhaust anyway.
e52a96af2db24a8ca686548aee0962f6s

Gah, so many little things catching my attention now. Should've just done matte black and never wash it again.
1) Water in the paint gun.

2) Mask edge wasn't trimmed properly and wasn't stuck down all the way.

3) Looks like the thickness changes too. Not lined up straight.

4) Water, and the mask wasn't trimmed. Really rough edges.
Also, it doesn't look like the mask was stuck down tight.

5) Looks like the tailpipes, light, and tire line up (can be deceiving in a
photo), but the gap on the left side of the tail is larger than the gap on
the right side.
Also doesn't look like the stripe is centered behind the seat.
Tail mounts may be bent or something.

Did they have the entire bike or just the fairings and tank? For stripes
it's necessary to have the entire bike.
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:15 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jae View Post
...although, looking at this picture, their mufflers aren't exactly centered under the tail either.
attr ex02 109
Okay, that's definitely OCD. The only people that would notice are those who tailgate wayyy too close. I don't think I ever stared at it that close when I had my Sprint ST.

As for the dimples. Hard to tell from the pics... could be fisheyes. Next time, DIY. You'll either wet-sand it 7-times over till you get it perfect, or you learn that suppressing your OCD takes less effort overall.
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Old 05-03-2015, 12:36 PM   #25
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No need to wet sand. With the right paper and technique, that's not necessary on a bike.
Clean tools and environment are the key.
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Old 05-03-2015, 01:12 PM   #26
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Clean tools are a must . Environment is nice but not necessary , I've painted cars and bikes in garages and outside . It just takes a bit more patience and wet sanding . Only time your chances of cutting down buffing is in a paint booth and those chances are slim
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If it's got or tires , it's going to cost you

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Old 05-03-2015, 04:21 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Clean tools are a must . Environment is nice but not necessary , I've painted cars and bikes in garages and outside . It just takes a bit more patience and wet sanding . Only time your chances of cutting down buffing is in a paint booth and those chances are slim
We never wet sand or buff. We get bowling ball finishes every time and we use a filtered paint booth that is spotless before, during, and after every job.
As a mater of fact, several customers are afraid to touch the finish because it still looks wet even days after we finish.

Wet sand leads to the potential of hidden moisture being blowing out of small holes, corners, or deep seams by the air in the gun.. Besides, wet sanding gains you nothing.

Even dry sanding out orange peal in the finish is way better and faster than wet sand and reduces the chances of a bad grit causing a deeper scratch.
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Old 05-03-2015, 05:49 PM   #28
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I've always wet sanded and buffed . Never do I wet sand and paint . Dry sand the orange peel out and clean thoroughly and re coat the clear
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When you park just put a work boot over the ignition they won't know what to do.



If it's got or tires , it's going to cost you
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Old 05-03-2015, 05:50 PM   #29
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And you must not have read correctly when I said I've painted in garages and outside when I did quick little repairs for friends. Paint booth is a whole different story
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When you park just put a work boot over the ignition they won't know what to do.



If it's got or tires , it's going to cost you
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Old 05-03-2015, 11:26 PM   #30
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Quote:
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And you must not have read correctly when I said I've painted in garages and outside when I did quick little repairs for friends. Paint booth is a whole different story
He has complaints. Those complaints are typical of not doing it right and taking the necessary time to clean tools and the environment. Buffing is completely unnecessary if you have the right leveler mix and you control the environmental conditions.

That's why we use a paint booth. Control and cleanliness. One piece of fuzz on a smooth surface SUCKS and ruins the entire look.

Paint in the garage or outside - you get what you get... see above pix supplied by the OP.
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:58 AM   #31
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:41 AM   #32
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..

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Old 05-04-2015, 10:42 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Track_Graphics View Post
5) Looks like the tailpipes, light, and tire line up (can be deceiving in a
photo), but the gap on the left side of the tail is larger than the gap on
the right side.
Also doesn't look like the stripe is centered behind the seat.
Tail mounts may be bent or something.

Did they have the entire bike or just the fairings and tank? For stripes
it's necessary to have the entire bike.
Only had the plastics. There is a definite line of symmetry on the tail, and the stripes are centered to the plastic. I've got some play in the bolt holes that attach the tail, so there's a little I can do, but I know the bike was wrecked at some point early in its life, and while the photos seem to distort the actual geometry of the rear end, it appears in person that either the entire muffler or perhaps just the cover that bolts on is crooked.

Either way, I'm about ready for a new exhaust. It's not even that hot out and I can already tell this muffler is going to cook my backside over the summer.
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Old 05-04-2015, 01:59 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Either way, I'm about ready for a new exhaust. It's not even that hot out and I can already tell this muffler is going to cook my backside over the summer.
I've got a seat cooler, but my R1 has the dual exhaust right under the seat. This morning I changed the brackets to move them out about 1.5 inches farther and adding heat insulation and reflective material.

I know what you mean. I hate hard boiled juevos and when I'm riding my girl on the back I always get cooked oyster for dinner. I prefer raw......
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Old 05-07-2015, 03:18 PM   #35
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I remember you showing me your non-EPA approved cooling setup.

I keep eyeing different exhaust options, and it looks like ANY aftermarket muffler system that gets rid of the stock cat inside the muffler has a huge advantage with seat heat. I just really don't want anything too much louder than stock.
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Old 05-07-2015, 05:22 PM   #36
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pic of bike with belly pan
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:25 PM   #37
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One trick to help with dust is ground everything.. spraying creates static so grounding takes that away.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:54 AM   #38
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pic of bike with belly pan
I just got the email yesterday afternoon that the brackets finally shipped out. I'm hoping I have time to get it installed before I head to the rally on Thursday. If not I'll take it with me and work on it there.
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Old 05-08-2015, 10:13 AM   #39
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I dont wet sand or buff , it takes lots of time and materials which make the client pay more.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:28 PM   #40
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Don't use thinner on ABS either. If you do, re-sand with 220 and wipe off dust with a tac cloth or damp paper towel. If you use a paper towel you'll have to wipe off lint.

Acetone and xylene change the molecular bond of ABS and even though it looks clean and sanded, it's actually very smooth and the paint won't stick.
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