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Old 04-15-2015, 10:23 AM   #1
albertinhouston
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carb cleaning

By no means do I know how to clean carbs the “right way” but this has worked for me so far.
Remove parts clean with carb cleaner put back together. I’ll spray in the carbs as well. That’s the
Short version.

I pulled a set of carbs off last night and they were unusually dirty(gummed up). I have a feeling my
regular method isn’t going to work on this set.

What do you guy use to for cleaning?
I was considering Seafoam or Berrymans (sp?) this time.

Keep in mind I’ll be doing it at home not a shop.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:27 AM   #2
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Disassemble and soak them in Pine-Sol. Leave them for a couple of days, then spray out with carb cleaner. The varnish won't stand a chance.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:28 AM   #3
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Remove carbs and all parts (jets, needles, screws etc.) and submerge in a CLEAN bucket of pump gas overnight. Remove and spray off/out with carb cleaner and reassemble. Granted I've only done this with my 2 stroke carbs and not anything on the scale of an I4, but carbs are all pretty much the same.

Edit: Pine-Sol sounds like a good idea too. Never heard that one.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:33 AM   #4
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Pine Sol works, but in my experience, it strips any finish the carb may have and makes the casting look porous.
I wouldn't soak any longer than a few hours, and then check it regularly until the build up is gone.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:34 AM   #5
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when you ay take them apart do you mean take them off the rack?
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
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when you ay take them apart do you mean take them off the rack?
Remove from bike, remove all jets, air screws, needles and slides. Remove them from the bike and completely disassemble them.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:38 AM   #7
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I saw online about boiling lemon juice and water....
I didn't like the way it left the out of the carb so I'm looking for something else.
I tried it on my 94 mustang radiator and it fixed my overheating issue. It loosened up the 130,000 mile build up. I didn't have any issue with overheating after that.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Remove from bike, remove all jets, air screws, needles and slides. Remove them from the bike and completely disassemble them.
to me completely disassembled is taking each carb off so I have 4 individually carbs seperated
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:41 AM   #9
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You are correct, sir. Off the bike and disassembled.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:41 AM   #10
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cool thanks.....
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
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to me completely disassembled is taking each carb off so I have 4 individually carbs seperated
You don't necessarily have to separate them, but if you do, you'll have to work a bit harder to sync them once you put them back together. That depends on how particular you are, of course. When I pull carbs, I seldom do more than a bench sync. Only thing that I sync with gauges is my Vstrom, but that's because I put extended vacuum lines on the TB's. Much easier than getting to them to take them off.
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:10 AM   #12
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I'm aware of needing to sync if I pull them all apart. I'm trying not to do that. If I have to purchase a set, I may as well pay to have them cleaned and save myself from having the smell old gas for an extended time. lol
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:15 AM   #13
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90 percent of time biggest problem is the pilot jets. Just carb cleaner or soaking wont cut it. Strip plastic off a bread tie and run it through the hole
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:45 AM   #14
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Quote:
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I'm aware of needing to sync if I pull them all apart. I'm trying not to do that. If I have to purchase a set, I may as well pay to have them cleaned and save myself from having the smell old gas for an extended time. lol
Don't worry about the gauges. You'll want to get them close anyway, even if you don't separate them. A bench sync will do that. There's a pinhole in the throat. Just adjust the butterflies (low side) until that hole is alllllllllllllllmost completely covered.

Are your pilot screws exposed, or are they covered with an aluminum plug?
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Old 04-15-2015, 12:46 PM   #15
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exposed
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Old 04-15-2015, 01:03 PM   #16
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Good deal. At least you won't have to drill them out.
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Old 04-17-2015, 12:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
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90 percent of time biggest problem is the pilot jets. Just carb cleaner or soaking wont cut it. Strip plastic off a bread tie and run it through the hole
Or use guitar strings
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Old 04-17-2015, 01:02 PM   #18
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I use the Berryman chem-dip. Kind of expensive, but if you do it often enough then it is worth it. I think Gum-Out also has one similar. I don't ever take the carbs apart from each other. You will need to synchronize them for sure if you take them apart. Do not put the diaphragms in the chem-dip. They will possibly distort or swell up. Soap and water on the rubber diaphragms. Remove all jets and the float needle assembly. Chem-dip will also possibly distort rubber on float needle. Check your floats for holes/cracks. Clean the jets with a weld-tip cleaner (you can buy at home depot in the welding supply section). There are different sizes so you can clean with the appropriate one. If you can get your hands on a float measuring tool, that will be helpful. Or you can possibly make a disposable one out of cardboard. The float height is important and overlooked a lot of times. Remove the air adjustment screw and clean the springs/check the needle to make sure it is not bent or broke off. Also remove the emulsion tube and clean the orifices. Scrub with soft brass bristle brush if needed. Don't get the chem-dip on rubber float gaskets (carb bottom) either. They will mess up.

That's all I can think of.
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