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Old 03-21-2015, 11:22 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Don't worry about TDC or timing marks when you're checking the valves, only when you're removing/installing them.
Check the valve clearance with the cam lobes 180 degrees away from the bucket.
Yep, gives you the most room to work. Not like its hard to turn over a bike engine.
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Old 03-21-2015, 12:03 PM   #82
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Excellent advice Patrick that will save me a lot of time the next go around. It's coming right along now. The valves are a little tight, but all in spec.

The manual is calling fot "high temp RTV" on the valve cover gasket...is that the black gasker maker? I really hate working with that . Seems like every time i have used it, it leaks immediately and makes a huge mess. Can I just use motor oil?

I am using the old gasket BTW
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Old 03-21-2015, 12:42 PM   #83
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Oh and i would like to clean all this stuff as i put the bike back together. Whats the best thing to use? WD40?
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Old 03-21-2015, 01:09 PM   #84
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Don't use motor oil.
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Old 03-21-2015, 01:16 PM   #85
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What Patrick said is the way to do it!

Use the black rtv in a tube.
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Old 03-21-2015, 01:24 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelnutt View Post
Excellent advice Patrick that will save me a lot of time the next go around. It's coming right along now. The valves are a little tight, but all in spec.

The manual is calling fot "high temp RTV" on the valve cover gasket...is that the black gasker maker? I really hate working with that . Seems like every time i have used it, it leaks immediately and makes a huge mess. Can I just use motor oil?

I am using the old gasket BTW
Thin continuous bead of RVT around the end caps of the gasket is all that's needed.
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Old 03-21-2015, 01:42 PM   #87
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11025927 814636638574238 2711743929521806499 o?efgeyJpIjoidCJ9

What do you mean by end caps?
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Old 03-21-2015, 01:55 PM   #88
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Ended up saying screw it and I just bolted the valve covers back on the same way I took them off. Hopefully they don't leak
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Old 03-21-2015, 02:09 PM   #89
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the U shaped cutout areas in the cylinder head - opposite side of the cam sprockets on your bike I believe.
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Old 03-21-2015, 02:24 PM   #90
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Oh!... this?

11049517 814649585239610 3502058152147705359 o?efgeyJpIjoidCJ9

Those were stuck in place. I left the gasket on the head during the whole job.
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Old 03-21-2015, 03:50 PM   #91
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Got everything back together minus the seat. Fired it up to check for leaks, seems okay so far...gonna head to vato zone and see about a new battery
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:43 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelnutt View Post
Got everything back together minus the seat. Fired it up to check for leaks, seems okay so far...gonna head to vato zone and see about a new battery
Good deal. Yup, thats where you add the gasket maker
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:00 AM   #93
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I've left the valve cover gasket in place as well for the last two valve adjustments I've done and it has yet to leak.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:04 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Don't worry about TDC or timing marks when you're checking the valves, only when you're removing/installing them.
Check the valve clearance with the cam lobes 180 degrees away from the bucket.
First time I've heard that, is this to give you a more precise measurement?
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:08 AM   #95
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That, and it gives you more room to work.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:32 AM   #96
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Dude I ended up remeasiring using patricks methed. It was a whole lor quicker and easier not having to try and line up the TDC indicator. It also made it much easier to take the measurement with ghe cam lobe up and out of the way.

Rotate fast until intake points up, measure, rotate fast until exhaust lobes point up, measure, done.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:38 AM   #97
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Also it may just be on my bike, but with the lobe out of the way, I could actually see the feeler gauge slide all the way through which made it quicker to measure accurately...try it next time!

Last edited by Flip Flop; 03-22-2015 at 09:40 AM.
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