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Old 03-20-2015, 12:54 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rgprestige15 View Post
Looks like it's not more involved than any other valve adjustment. You need to look at a service manual if you're going to pull out the cams and continue. You're next step is to remove the cams and begin swapping out shims that will allow you to loosen up those tight clearances. You can make all the needed shim replacements while the cams are out. If you can't get your smallest feeler in than you may need some that go smaller. I guess you could try a smaller shim and re-measure to get a reference point, but that adds extra work. I don't know how tight your valves are. PM me if you have questions. I can try to help as best I can.

Okay I think maybe I am reading the gauges wrong. Bear with me because I have never used feeler gauges before...

The ones I have say on the box that the tip of each gauge .002" smaller than the rest of the gauge. If you look at the gauge, it say's .004-.006. Does that mean the tip is .004 and the rest of the gauge is .006? If so, maybe only one valve is out of spec. (last night I was thinking they were allowing for a .002" accuracy variance in the gauge thickness)

I can fit the tip into them, so I might be good if the tip is .004, because the specs for them are .004-.008
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:05 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelnutt View Post
Okay I think maybe I am reading the gauges wrong. Bear with me because I have never used feeler gauges before...

The ones I have say on the box that the tip of each gauge .002" smaller than the rest of the gauge. If you look at the gauge, it say's .004-.006. Does that mean the tip is .004 and the rest of the gauge is .006? If so, maybe only one valve is out of spec. (last night I was thinking they were allowing for a .002" accuracy variance in the gauge thickness)

I can fit the tip into them, so I might be good if the tip is .004, because the specs for them are .004-.008
Yup, I'd assume thats the case. Otherwise those would be some useless feelers
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:11 PM   #63
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When you actually pull your old shims you may find yourself able to just swap them around to get the clearances you need. Honestly, after reading through that adjustment guide, it's not that bad.
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:12 PM   #64
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:14 PM   #65
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If you don't have the service manual, I think I have one for your bike.
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:15 PM   #66
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Just put it together and lets ride sunday
Sounds I'll ride the out of it then sell it. At least I got the spark plugs done.
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:21 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rgprestige15 View Post
Yup, I'd assume thats the case. Otherwise those would be some useless feelers
This is great news. Not that I am a dumb , but that the valves are still in spec. I'll have to check, but I think one intake valve on the front may be out.

Sooo next question: since they are pretty tight at .004-.005, is it standard practice to wait another 15k before checking again?
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:42 PM   #68
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Here is the gauge in question:

1606863 814229348614967 7507598103404615819 n?oh03a54573474981d73cb9f4b1c5a82980&ampoe55B11A5B

Notice the tip has a different finish on it? It's thinner, so I am assuming the tip is .008 and the rest of it is .010?
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Old 03-20-2015, 02:17 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelnutt View Post
This is great news. Not that I am a dumb , but that the valves are still in spec. I'll have to check, but I think one intake valve on the front may be out.

Sooo next question: since they are pretty tight at .004-.005, is it standard practice to wait another 15k before checking again?
If it's in spec, then it's in spec. Unless the service manual states otherwise, I would continue to go by the suggested service interval. So yes, you're good for another 15k miles.
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:17 PM   #70
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Go buy different feeler gauges. Those are wonky,
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:20 PM   #71
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Any reccomendations?
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Old 03-20-2015, 05:32 PM   #72
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http://www.sears.com/craftsman-25-le...p-00940804000P
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:21 PM   #73
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Word weird. I guess it's a type of go and no go gauges?
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Old 03-20-2015, 10:23 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelnutt View Post

What a crock of . Why would anyone make a motorcycle this way?! I'm thinking about putting it back together, selling this POS and getting a bike with hydraulic adjusters.
It's difficult, yes, but look at the performance that you get. It might be harder than a small block chevy, but you're talking about a motor that can redlines at 14,000 rpm (in my case).
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Old 03-20-2015, 10:28 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rgprestige15 View Post
Wait, you don't just eyeball the shim size?

I'll gladly take your spreadsheet.
Here it is if the forum will let me attach it. The file was a little too big, so I zipped it.
Attached Files
File Type: zip 2014_01_10 valve calculations.zip (105.5 KB, 13 views)
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:24 AM   #76
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Okay I went to sears and got magicmans gauges to remeasure(huge difference, thanks)

The rear cylinder was in spec, but I am having this strange problem with the front cylinder. The TDC indicator marks will line up perfectly, but the cam lobes aren't anywhere near where the manual says they should be...the are pointing down instead of up, leaving zero clearance.

After several tried one time i rotated a little fast and it freewheeled a bit and landed maybe, 1/8" past the TDC indicator marks, however the cam lobes were close to where the manual shows them at TDC.

Ive tried a few times again this morning and the lobes keep ending up in the wrong spot
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:33 AM   #77
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Aee you sure you're on the right stroke? You are going by flywheel marks aren't you?
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:34 AM   #78
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Okay wtf after posting that i tried it again. Didn't do anything different and they appear to be in the right spot. WTF? I guess thats why they illustrate cam position in the manual?
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:37 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gots2no View Post
Here it is if the forum will let me attach it. The file was a little too big, so I zipped it.
Yeah I even went over to the rear cylinder to look at the cams on the rear to make sure o wasn't hallucinating and actually had the rear at TDC.

I definately had it on the "f" indicator on the flywheel. I tried about 10-15 times to make sure O wasnt doing something wrong
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:12 AM   #80
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Don't worry about TDC or timing marks when you're checking the valves, only when you're removing/installing them.
Check the valve clearance with the cam lobes 180 degrees away from the bucket.
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