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Old 03-03-2015, 09:34 PM   #1
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oil drain plug casing stripped.

Well i was changing the oil on the shiver (2008) i purchased about a month ago and when the oil plug back all was fine until it never stopped spinning didn't get very tight. I usually do until hand tight and just a nudge more mabye 1/8 of a turn . It didnt want to come out either but after pulling on it while turning the bolt came out. The inside of the case is stripped. Not that far in but far enough. Dont know what to do. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks nick
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:39 PM   #2
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Heli-coil or re-tap the thread a size bigger, sucks been there done that!
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:49 PM   #3
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Go to oriellys and get a plus size self tapping oil drain bolt
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:51 PM   #4
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Those threads look real good in the back. Maybe try to find a longer drain bolt? If not like Tball said Heli-coil, its not as bad as u might think.
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:00 PM   #5
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Im just worried if i have to tap it shavings will get in the motor. None have i got it clean after pulling the bolt out. Its not a separate oil pan. Never done a heli-coil
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:02 PM   #6
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I would put lots of heavy grease on a tap and tap it.
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:10 PM   #7
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The only drawback with a oversized plug is you only get 1 use out of it and then you gotta replace the case
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:17 PM   #8
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Tap larger and use a pass through bolt (or whatever they're called). Thread lock it, and drain from the smaller bolt that screws into it. Had to do that on a car that Shelly's oil change wizards up. Use grease like bluewave said. It'll catch most shavings. Just go slow when tapping new threads.
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:27 PM   #9
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Call Patrick at Motorcycles Unlimited or Ron at Kawasaki of Pasadena.
I know both of these guys and either of them will steer you in the right direction. DO NOT just accept the advice of random people on an internet forum and launch into a repair.
At the very least you should call a pro and probably should take it to one of them and have it done.
The price of a screw up is steep in this circumstance.
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:30 PM   #10
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Yea im going to call patrick in the morning just wanted to get an idea since im freaking out over here
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:31 PM   #11
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I do appreciate everyone's advice. And am going to keep all in mind i have tapped out broken bolts in the frame of my rc and worked great. Just the case is scary
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:38 PM   #12
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It's not a huge deal. You've gotten several good options in this thread. Personally I would go for a Helicoil or Timesert threaded insert. Use grease on the drill/tap and flush out the case with some cheap oil after finishing the repair.
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
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It's not a huge deal. You've gotten several good options in this thread. Personally I would go for a Helicoil or Timesert threaded insert. Use grease on the drill/tap and flush out the case with some cheap oil after finishing the repair.
I would probably do it myself as well. I just recently had to helicoil an exhaust stud on the cylinder of the GT380. It's all dependent on what your comfort level with tools is.
If you feel confident, it's not rocket surgery but if you are inexperienced it could get expensive.
If you go for it, remember anything can be fixed, just gotta be ready for the cost.
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Old 03-04-2015, 09:33 AM   #14
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I'd go with tapping a new hole. I don't think I'd go slapping a helicoil in a spot like a drain bolt.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:00 AM   #15
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I'd go with tapping a new hole. I don't think I'd go slapping a helicoil in a spot like a drain bolt.
Why not? Typically Helicoils are stronger than the original threads. Especially when the base material is something soft like aluminum.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:08 AM   #16
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Why not go directly from bolt threads to case threads. Why a possible leak? If you can thread for heli coil you can thread for a bolt
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:24 AM   #17
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Ill prob tap it and just flush out with cheap oil like blensen said, i like that idea.
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:24 AM   #18
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Timesert that biotch.
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Why not go directly from bolt threads to case threads. Why a possible leak? If you can thread for heli coil you can thread for a bolt
You'd still have soft aluminum threads. With a helicoil they'd be steel.
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:35 AM   #20
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I see. Never messed with helicoil. But i know with the steel bolt alum case which one will mess up first. Im going to look into the helicoil steel on steel sounds alot better
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