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Old 12-06-2014, 10:21 AM   #1
thebujster
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Off season big bore? DRZ400, any advice?

I have an 07DRZ400sm with FCR, 3X3, and Full Yoshi RS2 exhaust. Bike has 24000 miles on it.

I wouldn't mind a little more top end/power at the higher RPMs and so I've been toying with the big bore kit.

Had a few questions that the search function doesn't show any results:

1. Do I need to redo the valves? Whether it be cleaning them out, putting new valves? Lapping them? Especially at that "high" mileage, I don't want to big bore it and then have the valves destroy the piston 8 months later.

2. I should replace cam chain just as a maintenance thing right?

3. I've heard of great reliability with the big bore, but I'm still nervous, any motivational slogans or anecdotal advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:29 AM   #2
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Also do I need to rejet after the bigbore?
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:34 AM   #3
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I've never done one for a motard but plenty of dirtbikes and atvs when I was younger. My advice, go one size up, don't max it out. That way you can still bore higher later down the road if you blow the top end. You usually have 2-3 sizes before you have to re sleeve and start over. I always just adjusted the valves as needed and replace as needed. Not when I bored. I've snapped 2 can chains over the years. Could've been from regular wear but idk. I started replacing them when I had the top end tore apart. Get GOOD gaskets. Be easy on the break in, it's a brand new top end. Get quality parts. Good luck.
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:35 AM   #4
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And yes, re jet.
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:35 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebujster View Post
I have an 07DRZ400sm with FCR, 3X3, and Full Yoshi RS2 exhaust. Bike has 24000 miles on it.

I wouldn't mind a little more top end/power at the higher RPMs and so I've been toying with the big bore kit.

Had a few questions that the search function doesn't show any results:

1. Do I need to redo the valves? Whether it be cleaning them out, putting new valves? Lapping them? Especially at that "high" mileage, I don't want to big bore it and then have the valves destroy the piston 8 months later.

2. I should replace cam chain just as a maintenance thing right?

3. I've heard of great reliability with the big bore, but I'm still nervous, any motivational slogans or anecdotal advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Yes, minimum clean the valves and recut the seats.
With the larger bore it needs to breathe so I'd install a set of Hot Cams.
Athena makes a very nice bolt in kit with piston and cylinder ready to go.
You will need to rejet. Longevity is fine, just change your oil regularly.
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Old 12-07-2014, 09:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Yes, minimum clean the valves and recut the seats.
With the larger bore it needs to breathe so I'd install a set of Hot Cams.
Athena makes a very nice bolt in kit with piston and cylinder ready to go.
You will need to rejet. Longevity is fine, just change your oil regularly.
^this

Bigger jug/piston
Bigger cam ----I like HotCams
Bigger jet
Bigger airbox hole (take a little at a time for go to KeinTech (sp?) for suggestions.
Go as big as your wallet will allow.

I built an XR675L a few years ago.

Weisco Kit (675)
Hotcams Stage 2
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2ng gear from a Transalp---I think.....

It was pretty damned close to an XRR when done, until that crane dropped a load of steel on it
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:40 PM   #7
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Advice? Don't big bore it, keep it stock. The DRZ is a commuter, not a race bike. It is what it is.

I see big bore DRZ's pop left and right. And they are still slow. Keep it and buy a 450 supermoto for your hooligan rides, it will be much faster and 10x more fun.
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxrider14 View Post
Advice? Don't big bore it, keep it stock. The DRZ is a commuter, not a race bike. It is what it is.

I see big bore DRZ's pop left and right. And they are still slow. Keep it and buy a 450 supermoto for your hooligan rides, it will be much faster and 10x more fun.
Yeah, but you're looking at what? 6-10k for a supermoto WR450 vs. about a grand for a BB kit and some cams for the bike you already own.
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Old 12-12-2014, 03:46 PM   #9
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Yeah, but you're looking at what? 6-10k for a supermoto WR450 vs. about a grand for a BB kit and some cams for the bike you already own.
Grand in parts at least with cams.
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Old 12-12-2014, 03:58 PM   #10
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DRZ400 is slow. Sell bike and build a 450 race bike into a supermoto.
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Old 12-12-2014, 04:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TardinLA View Post
Grand in parts at least with cams.
1k? 400 for the big bore, 150-200 for the cams. The only unexpected cost for me so far is whether I want to refresh the top end/valves while everything is apart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WileCyot View Post
DRZ400 is slow. Sell bike and build a 450 race bike into a supermoto.
Very tempted but it's just too expensive. Talking at least 4k. 5 to be on the safe side. Plus I want to still ride on the street/want the reliability of the DRZ.
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Old 12-12-2014, 06:40 PM   #12
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DRZ's become money pits when you start modding them.

For example, buy your big bore kit and cams. It won't be that bike you dreamed about, and you will be disappointed. Now you'll want to buy yourself a $500 FCR carb with the right jets. Don't forget your full exhaust $$$. Your suspension still sucks, lets buy a rear shock and get the forks sent out. There goes another thousand. Congratulations, you have a heavy bike that makes 40hp. A bone stock 450 mx bike with warp 9's and stock brakes would slap a DRZ silly.

It's best just to keep DRZ's stock and use them for what they were designed to be. They aren't bad bikes, they are just not performance bikes. They are great commuting bikes, backup bikes, and bikes that are awesome at just exploring and poking around. In the end, it's not my money, do what you want
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Old 12-13-2014, 06:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebujster View Post
1k? 400 for the big bore, 150-200 for the cams. The only unexpected cost for me so far is whether I want to refresh the top end/valves while everything is apart.
As quoted by one of our sponsors. BB kit w/cylinder piston gaskets and cams around 1050$ no labor. Plus fluids, plug etc...
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Old 12-13-2014, 10:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxrider14 View Post
DRZ's become money pits when you start modding them.

For example, buy your big bore kit and cams. It won't be that bike you dreamed about, and you will be disappointed. Now you'll want to buy yourself a $500 FCR carb with the right jets. Don't forget your full exhaust $$$. Your suspension still sucks, lets buy a rear shock and get the forks sent out. There goes another thousand. Congratulations, you have a heavy bike that makes 40hp. A bone stock 450 mx bike with warp 9's and stock brakes would slap a DRZ silly.

It's best just to keep DRZ's stock and use them for what they were designed to be. They aren't bad bikes, they are just not performance bikes. They are great commuting bikes, backup bikes, and bikes that are awesome at just exploring and poking around. In the end, it's not my money, do what you want
Truth

I had $8k wrapped up in mine after all said and done. I bought my 690smc for a lot less than that!
My DRZ had a BB, cams, FCR, MRD EXHAUST, Brembo MC, Racetech Front suspension, big battery mod and was still a slow pig with crappy brakes. Not saying the DRZ was a bad bike but if it were me Id do the suspension first...
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Old 12-13-2014, 10:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
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As quoted by one of our sponsors. BB kit w/cylinder piston gaskets and cams around 1050$ no labor. Plus fluids, plug etc...
That's probably the Athena kit which is 630, plus brand new hotams 300-400$.

The CW kit is 400+ used cams for me.

I decided to do as you guys suggested and hold off on the big bore due to the money I'd have to throw in with the head work.

I did buy some cams though, so that should hold me over.
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Old 12-13-2014, 11:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebujster View Post
That's probably the Athena kit which is 630, plus brand new hotams 300-400$.

The CW kit is 400+ used cams for me.

I decided to do as you guys suggested and hold off on the big bore due to the money I'd have to throw in with the head work.

I did buy some cams though, so that should hold me over.
Whats your current carb and exhaust set up?

Nvm just reread it....get rid of the yoshi and buy the MRD exhaust. That will make a slight difference there.
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Old 12-13-2014, 02:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Whats your current carb and exhaust set up?

Nvm just reread it....get rid of the yoshi and buy the MRD exhaust. That will make a slight difference there.
I've been looking for one used, and hopefully i can break even by selling the Yoshi RS2. Trying to throw as little money as possible into it
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Old 12-13-2014, 02:25 PM   #18
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The MRD apparently produces better HP at higher end, but RD2 is better for low end power. Maybe that's why I feel like the power drops off so drastically in the higher RPMS on my bike. 5 hp difference though. That's a lot.

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Old 12-14-2014, 06:56 PM   #19
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Stock carb and MRD with the 3x3, it never feels like it falls off, just pulls until the limiter kicks in. Since mine currently has no compression I'm thinking about the BB, but then again I'm with BYRDMAN, if I want a faster bike the Dizzer ain't it.
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Stock carb and MRD with the 3x3, it never feels like it falls off, just pulls until the limiter kicks in. Since mine currently has no compression I'm thinking about the BB, but then again I'm with BYRDMAN, if I want a faster bike the Dizzer ain't it.
Since your bike grenaded, want to trade me your MRD for my RS2??
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