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Old 09-27-2014, 07:27 AM   #1
The BeastMaster
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Having ?? electrical ?? issues w/video.

It's "The Beast" the 08 CBR1K
Ok so I was on my way home from work at 4:30 in the morning. Had ridden about 20 miles and got baited into standing on it for a bit to show a Mustang he didn't really want some. Anyway as I decided to slow down the engine started to spit and sputter. When I came to a complete stop I tried to crank it a couple of times and it would only fire just enough to die again. I do have a power commander 4 (I believe). it seemed to be initializing fine when I turned the key on.

It's definitely electrical. When the engine isn't firing the tach seems to go to 0 even though I was coasting with the clutch engaged trying to get it to fire. Is that the norm when the engine dies but is spinning over with the key on or is it because of the slipper clutch. Or is that a sign of the ECU taking a dump on me.

Although it's hard to hear the engine over the wind noise. I was playing with my new Sony Action Camera and I had it mounted on my fuel tank. Which shows the tach.

Here's the video

So after it had cooled down for an hour and 1/2 it cranked right up and seems to run fine, but I haven't actually taken it out for a test ride. Just rode it to load and unload from my trailer. Kind of reminds me of a coil going out on a car. I'm not that familiar with the electronics of this bike.

Anyone know does it has individual coils for each cylinder?
Ok I just answered that one by pulling up my parts diagram ... yes it has 4 coils so that's not the issue.

It just happened and I have to be back at work at 1 this afternoon so it will be atleast tomorrow before I start looking for loose wires and such. Have to get some sleep now.
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:36 AM   #2
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It almost sounds like a stator/rectifier problem.....

When the rectifier gets hot from running a while it wont send the correct voltage output to the ECU to run the bike properly.
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Old 09-27-2014, 11:47 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYRDMAN View Post
It almost sounds like a stator/rectifier problem.....

When the rectifier gets hot from running a while it wont send the correct voltage output to the ECU to run the bike properly.
Plausible. Without being there and testing etc... Its hard to say, but I did notice the slow cranking??
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYRDMAN View Post
It almost sounds like a stator/rectifier problem.....

When the rectifier gets hot from running a while it wont send the correct voltage output to the ECU to run the bike properly.
The rectifier is the little piece that senses the magnet on the flyw.heel right. That would be the second time that piece went out on one of my honda products. At least its cheaper than the ecu.

Can it be tested?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mx6er View Post
Plausible. Without being there and testing etc... Its hard to say, but I did notice the slow cranking??
Yes the battery is less than a year old but I ran it down once and its never been the same since. I swear the next time I need a battery I'm gonna buy a lithium.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 09-27-2014, 01:03 PM   #5
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it really seems like its the stator. it makes everything act weird when they go bad.
its very similar to when mine went out.
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Old 09-27-2014, 01:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The BeastMaster View Post
The rectifier is the little piece that senses the magnet on the flyw.heel right. That would be the second time that piece went out on one of my honda products. At least its cheaper than the ecu.

Can it be tested?


Yes the battery is less than a year old but I ran it down once and its never been the same since. I swear the next time I need a battery I'm gonna buy a lithium.

Thanks for the input.

the rectifier is a square looking box with heat sinks (like fins on an aircooled engine) it takes the voltage from the stator (magnet with wire coils) and "cleans" it up to run your bike.
Follow the wires coming out of the stator cover (left side engine cover) and it should lead you to the rectifier

You can test the output of the stator and rectifier....youtube it
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYRDMAN View Post
the rectifier is a square looking box with heat sinks (like fins on an aircooled engine) it takes the voltage from the stator (magnet with wire coils) and "cleans" it up to run your bike.
Follow the wires coming out of the stator cover (left side engine cover) and it should lead you to the rectifier

You can test the output of the stator and rectifier....youtube it
Sweet I just pulled it up on a parts diagram and have another one complements of a used battery box I purchased when I had too rebuild my beast after my MSRH incident.

The ironic thing about this is that exactly 2 weeks ago. The 3 month old coil on my truck went out and left me stranded also while I was on my way home. It was also the last saturday that I had to work. Problem with that was that I didn't have to change it when I did but I was working on the truck and had the old one off and it showed signs of wear so I decided to go ahead and put another one on.
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Old 09-28-2014, 05:28 AM   #8
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Check your battery terminals and see if they're tight and not corroded.
Take a volt meter and start the bike up. Check voltage output at idle and again at 5000 rpm and post up your results. Make sure to do it with the bike at operating temp, 180* or so.
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Check your battery terminals and see if they're tight and not corroded.
Take a volt meter and start the bike up. Check voltage output at idle and again at 5000 rpm and post up your results. Make sure to do it with the bike at operating temp, 180* or so.
It will be a few days before I get around to it, but I will do.

Today I changed the rectifier out with one that came with a used battery box I purchased on ebay. I got 2 miles from the house and it started missing again. Turned around and it got worse the closer I got. Died just as I was getting ready to pull in. Turned the key off and haven't messed with it since.
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Old 10-05-2014, 08:36 PM   #10
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.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Check your battery terminals and see if they're tight and not corroded.
Take a volt meter and start the bike up. Check voltage output at idle and again at 5000 rpm and post up your results. Make sure to do it with the bike at operating temp, 180* or so.
Done.

Idling 12.66 then at 5k 13.99 at first then after a minute or so it would drop back to 12.8
So I rode it around the block a few times until it started acting up. Went back home and playedq with the battery connections one more time. then checked the voltage output again and at 5K it was down to 11.6.,11.9 at idle and with the engine shut off the battery voltage drop to just around 12 volts. So I guess I need a new regulator.
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Old 10-05-2014, 08:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The BeastMaster View Post
.
Done.

Idling 12.66 then at 5k 13.99 at first then after a minute or so it would drop back to 12.8
So I rode it around the block a few times until it started acting up. Went back home and playedq with the battery connections one more time. then checked the voltage output again and at 5K it was down to 11.6.,11.9 at idle and with the engine shut off the battery voltage drop to just around 12 volts. So I guess I need a new regulator.
Check the stator too. That could be on its way out too causing the reg/rect to be acting up.
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Old 10-05-2014, 11:46 PM   #12
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..
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Old 10-06-2014, 07:54 AM   #13
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There's your issue right there...
So it makes sense. Your battery voltage starts to fall and the missing issue starts. Make sure to charge your battery before you replace the stator. That way you don't stress the new one.
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:19 AM   #14
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Looks like your crank seal is leaking into the stator cover, might see if you can use a screw type puller and pull out, then install a new one.
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Old 10-30-2014, 12:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Looks like your crank seal is leaking into the stator cover, might see if you can use a screw type puller and pull out, then install a new one.
Actually I found out that the stator runs wet( n oil). So that's not the problem.

I went ahead and changed the stator due to the 2 coils on it that were looking a little burnt. And it is still doing the same thing. So I disconnected the Power commander.... no difference. I put my multimeter on the battery and checked the output voltage of the new stator. Idling at 5K, with the battery fully charged it is putting out around 14.07V. Even when the engine is missing, the voltage stays steady. 14.07V seems a little high with a full charge on the battery, but I'm not sure.

About the rectifier/regulator..... When I did diode check on it. It doesn't beep, but I get a reading of 130+- with the current going one way then a 560+- when I switch the polarity. This occurs on both rectifiers that I have.
Does this sound normal or not?
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Old 10-30-2014, 01:30 PM   #16
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Camshaft sensor maybe?
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Camshaft sensor maybe?

Bingo we have a winner!
$49 to replace it.

On closer inspection the stator runs wet. So that wasn't the issue.
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