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Old 09-19-2014, 01:48 PM   #1
Jae
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Weird headlight issue

Bike: 2007 Triumph Sprint, running 7" cafe headlight (H4 bulb, I believe)

Problem: headlight stopped working

Went to turn on the bike last Sunday, headlight wouldn't come on. Tried the high-beam, no luck there either. Seems like it ruled out a bad bulb.

Fuse looked ok (20A), but swapped it out with the spare, still nothing. Seems to have ruled out the fuse.

Pulled the headlight bucket and tried a new bulb anyway, no luck.

Fire up the digital multimeter, attach ground to engine block, getting 12.7 V at the low beam terminal (key "on", engine off), 12.7 V at high beam terminal with the switch. Attach ground at the bulb terminal, still reading 12.7 V at each (low and high), so ground appears to be ok. Try hooking back up to the bulb (terminals seem to have a snug fit on the bulb) and no amount of jiggling the terminal or wires can even make the bulb flicker on.

So where do I go from here? Just try splicing in another headlight socket? I'm really not sure what else to even try at this point.
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Old 09-19-2014, 01:57 PM   #2
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? If u have both power and ground at the plug.... Y isnt it a bulb?
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Old 09-19-2014, 03:48 PM   #3
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Weird headlight issue

I thought the headlight turns on only after you start the bike?

Anyways looks like a bad ground to the headlight socket.
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Old 09-19-2014, 03:48 PM   #4
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Quote:
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? If u have both power and ground at the plug.... Y isnt it a bulb?
He already swapped out the bulb for a new one.
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Old 09-19-2014, 03:52 PM   #5
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Ahh my ADD got the best of me...didnt see that part.
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Old 09-19-2014, 03:55 PM   #6
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Try tracing and inspecting the wires, even though u have the right voltage u could have a pinched, broken wire that isnt allowing the proper amperage to turn on the bulb.
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Old 09-19-2014, 04:01 PM   #7
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Old 09-19-2014, 08:26 PM   #8
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run a new ground to the headlight plug to rule out a bad/loose ground wire.
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Old 09-21-2014, 04:13 PM   #9
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yeah, getting like a 65 ohm (kohm? have to double check) resistance between ground terminal and engine block. thinking I may have a bad ground
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Old 09-21-2014, 04:49 PM   #10
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getting nearly no resistance between the neg terminal and battery neg with key off, jumps up to 85 ohm with the key on
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Old 09-24-2014, 03:55 PM   #11
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Ran a new ground, and no luck. I've got a replacement wiring harness here (gauge plug was torn up on the current harness), so I'm just going to swap out the entire harness. Don't feel like dicking around with this anymore... just want to be able to ride the bike again.
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:06 PM   #12
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Perhaps the wire got pinched somewhere and is shorting out. Hope the new fixes it. Good luck
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:29 PM   #13
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Check voltage, not resistance with circuit energized. You should have 12V at filament(s) and 0V at negative. Checking without the bulb can give you false readings. Without the bulb, a poor ground could show 0V, but with the bulb installed that poor ground could easily rise to 12V.

If you measure the resistance of the ground lead to the chassis, you are looking for a value of less than 0.1 ohms. This can be hard to read depending on your ohmmeter. Make sure you're on the lowest range.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:36 PM   #14
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:40 PM   #15
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:33 PM   #16
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Yeah check the wiring in the wiring harness. My headlight and TAC turns off because of one of the wires in my wiring harness is causing a short.
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Old 09-25-2014, 09:07 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sudo View Post
Wait, no resistance or infinite resistance? Open is infinite. No resistance is short.
Yes, no resistance, as my ground wire is showing zero resistance (there is continuity) between the ground wire terminal to the neg. battery terminal with the key off. Switch the key on and it now reads 85 ohm resistance in the ground.

The harness on the bike had the socket that plugs into the gauges damaged in whatever wreck totaled the bike, and it doesn't seem too much of a stretch to me that the crushed connector could be causing issues (letting wires touch), or some other wires may have been pinched and damaged during that same accident.

Either way, new harness is going in. Also, looks like new brackets are going to be required to properly mount the ECU and voltage regulator. Always fun picking up a bike that's been modified by someone else.
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Old 09-25-2014, 01:12 PM   #18
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Old 09-25-2014, 02:50 PM   #19
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me too. It's just weird because I got the bike and was told about the damaged connector, and given a spare harness. Everything worked fine for me for a few weeks. Out of no where, get ready to go for a ride and happen to notice the headlight won't come on anymore. I just cannot figure this one out, but it doesn't help that my multimeter is also being a pain in the so I can't take more than about 2 or 3 measurements before I have to shut it down and turn it back on.

Oh well, will be tackling the harness swap when I get home this evening, just hoping this fixes my problems.
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Old 10-09-2014, 02:37 PM   #20
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Looks like I'm starting from scratch here...

Got the new harness in, replacing the old one plug-by-plug. Just like with the old harness, when I try to start the bike I'm getting nothing but a soft relay-like "click", which doesn't sound like it's coming from the starter solenoid. The upside is that now I've got a gauge cluster hooked up.

I need to get ahold of a decent multi-meter so I can start tracing lines and figure out if I've just got one or more bad relays. The fuses have all been replaced (and double-checked after the first time it wouldn't start, just to make sure I didn't have something over-drawing and blowing one of them).

Because the no-start issue began after I started dicking around with it I'm starting to wonder if perhaps I did something to the bank angle sensor that might keep it from starting, though it is still bolted in place. Is there some way I can rule that out as being the issue with the bike not starting?
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