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Old 08-29-2014, 11:18 AM   #21
blensen
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There's about 30 million different bends for tubular bars, so once you've got the correct triple you've got more options to dial in the position you want your hands in.

Is there a reason you wouldn't want to swap to SV650N top triple and brake lines?
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:45 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blensen View Post
Is there a reason you wouldn't want to swap to SV650N top triple and brake lines?
I'm just worried I might screw something up and then it goes from being a simple "switch out the handlebars" job to a major project.
I've never looked into running new brake, throttle and clutch lines, so it would be additional stuff I would need to learn to do as opposed. Seems like most of the time the more things I tend to "upgrade" from OEM, the more problems I have.

I also already have stainless brake lines it seems like a waste to pull them off just to put longer ones on after they've already been upgraded.


the kit that the guy is offering includes the top triple, bars, risers and a new extended throttle cable.
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:58 AM   #23
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2000 SV650 track bike. Problem solved.
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:59 AM   #24
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Old 08-29-2014, 12:13 PM   #25
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It's the change in height that requires new lines/cables, not necessarily clip ons vs. tubular bars.

This stuff isn't too hard to figure out if you're willing to do some measurement.

If you choose to drill your current triple you'll just need basic hardware to fasten the risers to your triple. Sometimes guys will use a hard-setting epoxy like JB weld as potting to fill in the underside of the triple and give a wider platform for the washers on the riser bolts. I've never needed to do that on bikes I've converted. Depends mostly on what the underside of your triple looks like.

New triple will be bolt on obviously. In either case you're probably going to need new brake lines. Venhill and HEL both do good custom length stuff. The extra length is just the difference in height between now and whatever rise you choose. Motion Pro does custom length throttle cables, but the stock ones can usually just be rerouted.

The kit isn't a bad price, but you can probably do it cheaper gathering the parts yourself.
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Old 08-29-2014, 12:32 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelnutt View Post
I'm just worried I might screw something up and then it goes from being a simple "switch out the handlebars" job to a major project.
I've never looked into running new brake, throttle and clutch lines, so it would be additional stuff I would need to learn to do as opposed. Seems like most of the time the more things I tend to "upgrade" from OEM, the more problems I have.

I also already have stainless brake lines it seems like a waste to pull them off just to put longer ones on after they've already been upgraded.


the kit that the guy is offering includes the top triple, bars, risers and a new extended throttle cable.
If you want a hand, just let me know, I'll make some time to help you out. Either way, what you're wanting to do is really simple.
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Old 08-29-2014, 01:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jae View Post
If you want a hand, just let me know, I'll make some time to help you out. Either way, what you're wanting to do is really simple.
Thanks Jae I may take you up on that once I start getting my hands dirty.

I probably am gonna go ahead and do the tubular bars. It would seem as though it's going to be close to the same amount of work either way and I may as well do it right if I'm going to do it.
Plus I get the feeling I'm not only going to want them higher, but further back also.

I'm probably just overthinking this and once I get started I'll realize it's not too bad.
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:15 PM   #28
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first off you're looking at some very expensive options, even the cheap ones are not the route i'd go.

have you made a decision yet whether you want to raise your clipons or use a handlebar? This is step 1.

your next step (regardless) should be to go to SVRider.com or create an acct there if you havent yet, and check their classifieds for people either selling Naked upper/lower yokes and or clip-on risers, per your choice from step 1.

There is such a plethora of good solid parts available for these bikes, gently used, that its silly to think of going out and buying anything.

Lastly, you could always take your top triple tree to a friend or metal worker and have them drill the holes to accept risers, like in that above link (in fact take them the picture to show them what you want) and then either make or have some risers made to put in the holes you just had put in your triple tree. then get you a clubman bar for $20 bucks, or if you're a MX kinda get get you some renthal bars and call it a day.

Honestly i think you should go the handlebar route, possibly get you some naked triples and be done with it. they are cheap and easy to be had used in the SVR classifieds.
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:09 PM   #29
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Heli bars and a Sargent seat. Corbin is hit and miss on quality and you will not be able to return it.
1+ plus on the heli bars....that's what I've got on my SV..
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:34 PM   #30
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Find some old Yamaha FJ1200 clip-ons on ebay...same diameter forks but 1 1/2" higher and farther back. You need to spend 10 minutes grinding on the riser so they clear the upper triple but they work fine. You can re-use all your cables and brake lines. They have funny threaded bar ends so you'll want to get those too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-92-YAMA...1b278c&vxp=mtr
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:31 PM   #31
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Here's an option that's "in between" price and height wise.

sv racing parts 2.5 and 3.5 rise clip-ons. They are designed to give lots of adjustments.... just not the HUGE adjustment of the helibars... but they look MUCH better IMO.
http://www.svracingparts.com/store/#...663&id=3033530

There's quite a few threads on the sv forums stating how high you can go without needing new cables.
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:20 AM   #32
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Just get this model.

Making my SV650S more comfortable
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Old 08-31-2014, 08:44 AM   #33
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I bought these for my gsxr instead of convertibars because of the price and they are really solid. As the video on the page says, they are infinitely adjustable so you can set it where you can get the cables now and then if you replace cables later you can always adjust them higher.

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=7662
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