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Old 05-31-2014, 04:31 AM   #1
uigiroux
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Broken spark plug in cylinder head...

I was doing a simple spark plug change to go along with my new Mikuni VM36 carb I just installed, and well, long story short, the spark plug broke. I thought it was just the porcelain that busted and was worried about that getting into my cylinder head, but upon further inspection of the plug, I realized that plug actually broke, more than halfway up through the threading, so I actually am going to have to get some sort of easy out for that, IN ADDITION to taking the header off to get the extra debris out... If anyone can help me out or tell me what to do I would really appreciate it. I am supposed to be starting summer school at UH on Monday and this is my only transportation (07 Suzuki S40, 650cc single cylinder). PLEASE HELP!!!
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Old 05-31-2014, 08:43 AM   #2
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http://www.tigraionline.com/broken_sparkplug.html

Hope that helps. I would give a hand but I won't be home all day
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Old 05-31-2014, 09:29 AM   #3
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I can fix it, prolly not today, but be warned if u or anyone else trys to fix it and messes up worse than it allready is, it can get much worse which means lots more $$$
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Old 05-31-2014, 09:34 AM   #4
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I have tons of every size ease outs you could want or need to borrow. maybe rotate the piston to the top, then work on backing out the thread, then clean up via vacuum and tubing through spark plug hole if possible if you think you got some ceramic dropped in there. When installing the new plugs, use anti-seize on the threads.
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:45 AM   #5
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What would I be looking at in terms of cost? I feel I could do this, but as Flyin'duc mentioned, one screw up and it's much worse and that's not when I want to get my experience with getting inside the engine. I'm saving that for changing the camshaft and can chain tensioner, etc....
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Old 05-31-2014, 12:10 PM   #6
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its fairly easy to do, sometimes. It broke for a reason, its stuck good and tight. it is a metal collar so thats a plus, it is harder than the aluminum, so thats a be careful point/negative point.
get an ease out and go at it, just dont get crazy and try and use it in the alum threads, make sure it fits properly in the metal collar left behind and get it out of there w/o touching the alum threads and hope like its not stuck enough to gall the threads upon removal. It is what it is so get to it.
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Old 05-31-2014, 12:10 PM   #7
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Lets see a good pic, sometimes I do these things for free
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Old 05-31-2014, 12:15 PM   #8
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Here is a link to the Suzuki Savage forums where I normally have gone, got good pics there.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB...m=1401519824/0
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Old 05-31-2014, 12:43 PM   #9
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Broken spark plug in cylinder head...

If you have an air compressor, with the piston on the exhaust stroke maybe you can rig up a way to blow up through the exhaust and out the cylinder to keep debris from falling in. Also put a lot of grease on any drill bit or easy out you use to grab any chips that might fall in.

Doing this won't keep everything from falling in, but it will catch most of it.
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Old 05-31-2014, 04:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterTrash View Post
When installing the new plugs, use anti-seize on the threads.
Do you do this on new plugs also?

I think they have a coating on the threads and they all have crush washers. I just screw them in and replace one if I have to pull it.
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Do you do this on new plugs also?

I think they have a coating on the threads and they all have crush washers. I just screw them in and replace one if I have to pull it.
I do. Just a little on the threads.
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:08 PM   #12
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I was going to use some silicon thread lock but wanted to index the plug first.
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:32 PM   #13
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Don't worry about indexing the plug, won't make any difference on that bike.
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:55 PM   #14
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no threadlock, just anti-seize or you may be going through the same issue next plug change. Listen to what the dooood above me sez!
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Old 05-31-2014, 06:32 PM   #15
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Thread lock? Dang
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Old 05-31-2014, 08:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
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no threadlock, just anti-seize or you may be going through the same issue next plug change. Listen to what the dooood above me sez!
NGK says not to use anti-seize. I am always terrified of messing up my heads so I use a new plug as insurance with it's new crush washer to prevent over tightening when I have to pull a plug for some reason.
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:58 PM   #17
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They say their coating will do the same. Nothing can be hurt by using anti seize. I always use it when the heads are aluminum
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:03 PM   #18
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ngk wont pay to have it removed if it gets stuck, antiseize wont affect the plug performance and WILL insure of it coming out when you want it to, I use it in this application everytime.
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
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ngk wont pay to have it removed if it gets stuck, antiseize wont affect the plug performance and WILL insure of it coming out when you want it to, I use it in this application everytime.
Their point is the anti seize will make the torque specs off and rip the threads since it is easier to rotate with lube.

Just like when you torque head bolts with oil you go to a higher spec than if you use moly lube.
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:55 PM   #20
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Broken spark plug in cylinder head...

Bs! If you choose the be concerned by that, that's all you. I'm way more concerned about the two dissimilar metals. I don't even tq a plug. I've never had an issue.
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