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Old 05-11-2007, 10:19 AM   #41
Swift E
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Looks like it is coming along pretty good. I also work for food ( like Moody):laughing6 :laughing6
Well, I'll be sure to let you know what the plans are for this weekend
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:31 PM   #42
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how's the paint and bodywork going???

man, paint and the other is expensive. I spent $91.20 at lunch for black paint and it's chemical siblings.

I am curious, for the clear coat step of painting...i got a "Medium Topcoat Hardener"...is this only for my tank, or can I use this on the plastic? They didn't have a "flex agent"?? in stock.

for priming the plastic, the guy suggested that I buy "bulldog adhesion promoter" so that i can spray my primer onto it...this good stuff? he also said to completely removed the existing paint on the plastic...this true?

also, for the bodywork stage, if I have 1/4" gouges in the plastic, can i fill that with bondo? or should i be using a plastic filler?

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Old 05-23-2007, 01:38 PM   #43
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another question...how much paint would i need to paint a bike...i bought a quart, which would reduce to a 1/2 gallon...do i need to make plans on painting my nsr's big sister as well? or will my supplies last me a long time on the shelf after painting just one bike...
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:39 PM   #44
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Fiberglass adheres well to plastic also, my try that in the gouges.
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:42 PM   #45
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how would you get the fiberglass tape into the gouge? should i just fill the gouge with epoxy?
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:44 PM   #46
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how would you get the fiberglass tape into the gouge? should i just fill the gouge with epoxy?
Just use the resin or bondo.
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:49 PM   #47
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Just use the resin or bondo.
It smells nice too :confused2
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:49 PM   #48
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It smells nice too :confused2
Good ole' Bondo!
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:52 PM   #49
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any advice on this? i need to make a new mounting tab as seen in this illustration...i was planning on just making this out of fiberglass, but any insight would be better. It's not like i am putting two cracked pieces together which would be a lot easier...

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Old 05-23-2007, 01:57 PM   #50
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any advice on this? i need to make a new mounting tab as seen in this illustration...i was planning on just making this out of fiberglass, but any insight would be better. It's not like i am putting two cracked pieces together which would be a lot easier...
Cut out the broken stuff, rivet in some new plastic and clean it up with reson and bondo.
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:01 PM   #51
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o ok...so where can i get plastic? i was thinking i was going to have to make some crazy s**t out of fiberglass...
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:06 PM   #52
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o ok...so where can i get plastic? i was thinking i was going to have to make some crazy s**t out of fiberglass...
You could do that but it is not going to hold up for . Just go to Home Depot they should have something.
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:11 PM   #53
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I'll sell you some crashed plastics for the 675
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:13 PM   #54
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oh swift, you're a genius...i have a ton of my 929 plastics laying around...why didn't i think of that?
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:16 PM   #55
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oh swift, you're a genius...i have a ton of my 929 plastics laying around...why didn't i think of that?
:dontknow:

If you have the time give Patrick a call and ask him about the guy he knows who plastic welds. It is cheap and that would be your best bet but if time is not available then just rivet it.
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Old 05-23-2007, 05:57 PM   #56
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I have actually had success with using fiberglass to repair and build up broken pieces of fairings. It may be luck but I feel it was all about the prep work I put into it. Now that you mention *Gel-Coat* , Tom, I think it was that same product. I mixed the gel and hardener and soaked the fiberglass sheets ( I had already cut the sheet to size ) then I put a cardboard backing to support the pieces while it dried then peeled the cardboard back and repeated the process until I had sufficient material built up to match the original thickness of the plastics. Then sanded and shaped till I got the missing area matching the original lines of the fairing.
It worked for me. Hope that helps.
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:25 PM   #57
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nice...thanks, i may try that, these really don't have to last very long anyhow...and i love using fiberglass...i have a ton of it, and a ton of epoxy
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:44 PM   #58
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a quart of paint is plenty to paint a bike if you have the gun set up right. the size tip that is on the gun matters a lot as well.

plastic welding will hold.....but still needs some support. that bulldog adhesion promoter is made for painting bumpers and such. i wouldn't even use it on the bike. and the guy who sold you the paint is WRONG. you do not have to sand all the original paint off. what you DO need to do is get all the decals off (decals that aren't cleared over), sand only at the clear, if you break through the clear down to the basecoat, you will need to seal those spots or else you'll risk ruining the paint in that spot.

as long as you stay on top of the clear, you will be fine. if you have already sanded all the original clear off.....you will need to primer everything, wet sand it smooth with a 400-600 grit paper, then seal the primer....and paint.
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:47 PM   #59
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be patient as well. don't keep packing on paint also, you'll start to have solvent popping problems. paint as many coats as you need....but lay them down evenly. too much paint will make the paint brittle as well. FLASH time is key, don't wait enough, you'll either run the paint or get solvent popping.....wait too long, and the paint will lift off.
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Old 05-24-2007, 07:39 AM   #60
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A little off topic here...
Anyone seen the 2007 Michael Jordan Blue / white MotoGP bikes?

I really like this paint scheme and can't seem to find a pic anywhere other than the rag I picked up at Barnes and Nobles.
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