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Old 05-13-2014, 11:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ek View Post
I may be wrong but I remember some saying that WD40 is kinda hard on the orings. Like I said, I could be wrong.
I've found it easiest to spray the WD40 on to a rag, wipe the chain clean and ride the neighborhood to fling any excess and then apply the lubricant...been working for 10 years for me without any issues.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:34 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbuck View Post
I've found it easiest to spray the WD40 on to a rag, wipe the chain clean and ride the neighborhood to fling any excess and then apply the lubricant...been working for 10 years for me without any issues.
Good to know. I don't remember how said info on it was obtained. Sounds like your method would be good as you are not soaking the chain with the stuff. I too have done the same thing in the past with a towel and a little WD. Keeps the chain looking purdy.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:41 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ek View Post
I may be wrong but I remember some saying that WD40 is kinda hard on the orings. Like I said, I could be wrong.
+1 I stopped using WD-40 a few months back because of this. While I never had any issues the explanation made sense and I just went out and bought a jug of Kerosene. The WD40 makes the orings dry out/swell and well go bad....or something to that effect.....Kerosene works a lot better anyway
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:19 PM   #24
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WD40 will not hurt the orings. Neither will kerosene. Both are petroleum based, just like the grease inside the chain. Either makes a good cleaner.
That's the most important part, keeping the chain clean.

Lubricant will help prevent rust but it won't do the chain any good otherwise. The lubricant can't get inside the Oring any more than the grease can get out. If the oring fails and the lube gets in, then the grease has already got out and the lubricant won't help for long.
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:22 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ek View Post
I may be wrong but I remember some saying that WD40 is kinda hard on the orings. Like I said, I could be wrong.
Ok, you're wrong.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
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That's the most important part, keeping the chain clean.

Lubricant will help prevent rust but it won't do the chain any good otherwise....
um, yea, it lubricates.

It's like ****ing a clean dry vs a wet lubricated one.

Less friction = things last longer
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:08 PM   #27
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Quote:
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um, yea, it lubricates.

It's like ****ing a clean dry vs a wet lubricated one.

Less friction = things last longer
Lubricates what? If it doesn't get past the orings it ain't lubricating anything.
Most of the girls I been with don't have an oring in they vajj, lol
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:19 PM   #28
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the rollers come into contact with the teeth of the sprocket

were you not using lube, I'd guess the rollers would run hot and that will damage the rings

and also increased wear on the sprocket
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
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the rollers come into contact with the teeth of the sprocket

were you not using lube, I'd guess the rollers would run hot and that will damage the rings

and also increased wear on the sprocket
Good point. Except by that logic train wheels should get hot too.
Lube in the space between the roller and the sprocket will trap dirt and increase wear.

Obviously we could argue this endlessly and it's been done before.

Bottom line, keep your chain clean and then lube it, or not, as you see fit.

I can tell you this, I don't lube my chains, since the introduction of o-ring chains and in all these years I have never experienced a chain failure or premature wear. That's a lot of chains, a lot of bikes and a lot of miles. That's why I say, clean is most important, lube if you want.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:42 PM   #30
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By the way, to the OP...
The tight and loose spots are caused by eccentricity of the sprockets, mostly the rear. They are not made perfectly round and the slop in the mounting allows a bit of "out of roundness"if you will.
It is not abnormal unless it is extreme, which, by your description, yours is. You need a new sprocket and probably a new chain.
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Old 05-13-2014, 06:02 PM   #31
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:28 AM   #32
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:28 PM   #33
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OK, I have to say it. WD40 is not a lubricant. It is Water Displacer #40, mainly fish oil. It shouldn't hurt o-rings but I do know carb cleaner will expand and split them, which is also petroleum based.

Clean your chain, then lube with chain wax.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:09 PM   #34
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wd 40 dosn't have fish oil in it, but otherwise that statement is correct

http://bigcatrescue.org/wp-content/u...4/04/WD-40.pdf
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:10 PM   #35
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Just to clarify...

WD40 is very similar to kerosene. It is not fish oil.
You are correct that it isn't intended as a lubricant but, it does make a good cleaner, like kerosene.

Carb cleaner is mostly tetrachlorethylene and is not petroleum based. It is bad for oring chains.

Chain wax is also not a lubricant. It is more of a preservative. When it dries it leaves a waxy, water resistant film. It is good for protecting a chain from rust but doesn't really lubricate it.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:13 PM   #36
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People on the R1 forum swear by wd40. They use it exclusively on the chain. No lube just wd40.
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Old 05-14-2014, 04:49 PM   #37
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Old 05-14-2014, 07:21 PM   #38
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I love all the fools talking fish oil and trying to sound like they know about it being water displacement #40. Who doesnt know its formula 40? ? lol makes me laugh
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