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Old 04-04-2014, 06:58 PM   #1
cuong-nutz
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Ninja 250 big bore build thread

Goal: 35 whp naturally aspirated.
Amount invested: who keeps a tally?

This is why I went bigger:

http://www.motohouston.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=244180


To be continued....
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:11 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
Goal: 35 whp naturally aspirated.
Amount invested: who keeps a tally?

This is why I went bigger:

http://www.motohouston.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=244180


To be continued....
Nice!
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:44 AM   #3
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:48 AM   #4
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I'll start working on the head again next. I originally planned to just clean up the heads some and polish the exhaust parts but I'm looking to go even more and bore out the exhaust ports some and upgrade to large exhaust valves. I also want to clean up the crank case some work on oiling improvements. I need to order more dremel bits.
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:50 AM   #5
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Old picture from DEC 2012:

BA83CB5D 22DE 4447 A7AC 52D3C881EEA3 17200 00000F145B253876
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:34 PM   #6
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I have a manual tensioner if interested.
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:29 PM   #7
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Motor is roughly put together. Just checking P:V clearances. Really not satisfied with the quality of the updated pistons. I had to deburr and smooth out some flaws so they wouldn't damage the cylinders.

Decided to keep the stock head for now and I'll upgrade it further down the line.
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Old 08-05-2014, 11:09 PM   #8
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:59 AM   #9
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dude. Looks like you have lots of time in it also.
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Old 08-12-2014, 10:20 AM   #10
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what is PV Clearance? Is that your squishband?

also what types of materials are you using to make those molds? For the "PV" clearance was that just plain putty? And what did u use for the blue model that showed the ports
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:46 AM   #11
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keep it going
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Old 08-12-2014, 02:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SideVinder650 View Post
what is PV Clearance? Is that your squishband?

Piston to valve clearance: I'm running close to 1.5mm intake and 2.15mm exhaust.

also what types of materials are you using to make those molds? For the "PV" clearance was that just plain putty? And what did u use for the blue model that showed the ports
I'm using regular engine gasket maker silicone since it sets fast and is pliable for removal. To measure clearance, I used regular modeling clay.

I used the port molds to see what I areas inside the ports needed to be cleaned up to improve flow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Dominance View Post
keep it going
Well right now the motor is hung in the frame. I'm just waiting to finish de-rusting the gas tank

6E59CAF9 9AD0 4843 95BB 8EB0F0155244
6736467C BC75 4D3D 833B C54BA25A42CC

I just may swap my other tank over to this bike to start it up.
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Old 08-12-2014, 05:34 PM   #13
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Very cool. How did you learn to do all that?
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Old 08-31-2014, 08:09 PM   #14
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Very cool. How did you learn to do all that?
I had a knack for taking things apart since I was little. My dad was a mechanic a long long time ago before we moved to Texas. Everything else I learned on my own.

Right now I'm working on building an exhaust and putting the bike to street legal conditions. The red dye is bleeding into the gas from the tank but it's not affecting the carbs from what I can tell. Doing everything on the cheap
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:53 PM   #15
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Walk me through your electrolysis de-rusting setup looks sweet.
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Old 09-01-2014, 02:20 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Walk me through your electrolysis de-rusting setup looks sweet.
The tank took a long time since the rust is on the inside and it was heavily rusted. I just banged on the sides of the tank to remove the scales.

Get as much of the rust off if you can. I have read people using aquarium gravel inside the tank and wrapping it in a towel and throwing it in the dryer and then rinse out.

Electrolysis:
I used my 6 amp battery charger.
Motorcycle Battery as the reserve power
Battery jumper cables
14 ga wire (what I had around)
Arm and hammer ultra powder detergent (smells good and safe). You are looking for sodium bicarbonate (a base) or washing soda. other people have used an acid.
Rebar

Fill tank with your electrolyte solution.
Bend your rebar to fit inside the tank to cover as most of the tank as possible. I wrapped areas on the rebar with rubber hose where it contacts your tank. You don't want to burn a hole in it or blow up when you hook up the power.
Hook up battery charger to battery. More amps, faster process.
Now hook up the jumper cables to battery.
The other end of the cables: positive to rebar and negative to tank. If you hook it up in reverse, you cause even more rusting lol.

Make sure it's in a ventilated area as the process will produce hydrogen gas. You'll see bubbles forming and the solution will bubble out. No sparks or it might go kaboom.

You'll have to clean off the rebar every few hours to clean the rust off of it. I did this for a week since my tank was hard to work with.

Once your satisfied with how clean it is, make sure you dry it fast to prevent surface rust. Avoid using warm water as it seems to rust faster when you rinse the stuff out. I use acetone to help dry it faster since its more volatile and holds water well.

You can spray it down with wd40 or fi it up with gas right away to keep it from rusting or seal the tank with red-kote, por-15, or other sealers.

For small stuff I used a small plastic container filled with electrolyte. works wonder on old rusty tools.

Google and you'll see a lot on it.
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