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Old 11-14-2013, 10:35 PM   #21
Discman7374
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Very interesting insight, it's greatly appreciated thanks for entertaining my ignorance!
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Old 11-14-2013, 10:53 PM   #22
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ps- make sure you have AIS block off plates, or your AFR will be tweaked
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:22 PM   #23
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I normally set the AFR at 13.2:1 low and mid and 13:1 on top end.
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Old 11-15-2013, 06:51 AM   #24
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That's the most common afr
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:25 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magzx12r View Post
I normally set the AFR at 13.2:1 low and mid and 13:1 on top end.
That's a good target AFR for most inline 4's.
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:35 PM   #26
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I also suggest Freddy at eastside honda. Bonus is its about 5 minutes from Royal Purple. My bro-in-law Jason is working with that dyno now also.
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:59 PM   #27
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I disagree....the auto tuners are only good for minor changes AT THE TRACK with an already somewhat tuned bike! If you start with a stock map on a heavily modded bike and try to auto tune you are either going to melt something or have a really tune.

Also, 13.2 or leaner is going to get you a high dyno number but in reality you're going to have a slower bike on the track. Get with a real tuner or go see Johnny Cheese and he'll show you the difference if you don't understand the basics...
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:47 AM   #28
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Mine was tuned for nitrous after the 1441 build. Billy couldn't see any changes that he could make when I took it in to double check the tune. It worked like a champ for me. I made changes with the auto at least 15 x before the dyno.
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:29 AM   #29
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The key with heavily modded na motors is to start pretty rich and work from there.
Once you have a good base map than you can play with lower afr's at the track if you're chasing ET's.
that said, for 99% of street bikes auto tune os a great alternative to dyno tuning.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:03 PM   #30
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I know a couple people that started with the auto tuner and worked for weeks on the street perfecting the tune and getting it correct (so they thought)....one pull on Johnny's Dyno showed another story. Wide open throttle wasn't far off A/F wise but ride-ability and on/off throttle wasn't even in the ball park. This resulted in PEAK power being WAY down from what it should have been because the entire map was complete WRONG. Once he started tuning over, load, on/off, etc. and getting everything REALLY TUNED....the bike picked up almost 10whp PEAK!!


So ya, the A/F was okay wide open but NOTHING else about the map was even close which resulted in the bike being a complete DOG and riding like around tow and roll-on's...

A real tuner will explain this. I've seen to many guys (so called tuners, dyno owners, whatever) that throw a bike on the dyno and make a wide open throttle pull. They just look at the peak line/air fuel when in reality there is WAY more to the map and tune then that. This is where a good tuner is worth his weight in gold,....especially if you have a Turbo or Nitrous bike that you don't want melted or blown up. For everyone else that spends 99% of the time in the lower RPM, the tune will be worth even more since the bike will actually work down low everyday. Smooth throttle transition, GOOD gas mileage, cooler temps, etc...etc..and actually PULL up top!


By all means, buy what you want and install what you want....I liked going faster than others with less mods and money in my bike because the most important part...the TUNE is/was overlooked!

Have a good week everyone...
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:28 PM   #31
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Doesn't make sense.
If WOT wasn't far off, why were the other tables?
Unless the target AFR's inputted into the auto tuner for the lower tables were incorrect, they should fill properly.

Dyno tuning works the same way an auto tuner does, it searches for a optimal AFR inputted/chosen by the dyno operator.
The only benefit a dyno offers is determining IF the target ratio is optimal or not.
Most dyno operators are not going to spend the time necessary to determine optimum AFR across all throttle scales and all rpms.

And yes, I agree, most dyno operators only map the 100% throttle/WOT part of the map by doing a few WOT pulls on the dyno.
Obviously they're not going to be able to accurately fill the lower tables.

The other issues you get into with a normal street ridden bike, particularly at lower throttle settings, is that the dyno does not always do a good job of real life road simulation/load at partial settings. Nor does it always work put that the optimum AFR for max power at say 20% throttle @ 3500 rpm is the best AFR for rideability.

Last, Johnny is a very talented dyno tuner, I've recommended him to a number of my customers and he takes the requisite time to map their bike correctly and charges accordingly.
That said, as I stated earlier, for 99% of the street riders w/stock - semyi stock motorcycles, auto tuning is a very viable option and great tool when used properly.
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