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Old 11-03-2013, 02:52 PM   #1
Fastola
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:35 PM   #2
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You need to replace the copper crush washer sandwiched between the banjo bolt and the master cylinder. Actually there are two, one on each face of the banjo bolt.
I've had trouble in the past building pressure in my brake lines while bleeding. What I do when I have this problem is remove cover from the master cylinder, then remove the caliper and press the piston back into the caliper. This usually forces any air pockets that are stuck in the caliper up and out through the master cylinder reservoir.
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:56 PM   #3
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NEVER use teflon tape or sealant on brake systems,
It reacts to the glycol and can cause major issues.
If you have a leak, replace the crush washers on the banjo bolt as previously stated.
If you need some swing by and I can give you a couple, gratis.
If you're bleeding from a previously empty reservoir you may need to usea vacuum bleeder.
You can pick them up reasonably inexpensively at Harbor Freight, Sears, etc.
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Old 11-03-2013, 04:40 PM   #4
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I prefer to reverse bleeding method if there is a large amount of air in the lines. Saves me a lot of time plus you can do it alone if you don't have someone helping just like using a vacuum bleeder. But as bigshankhank and Patrick both said you need to first seal the system and replace those washers. Good Luck.
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:53 PM   #5
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Old 11-03-2013, 07:36 PM   #6
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Best way is to use a syringe and some tubing, suck up some brake fluid and flush it from the caliper up to the master cyl like a blood transfusion. Have another syringe to suck up the reservoir fluid to keep it from overflowing.

Vacuum bleeders are a waste of money.
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:25 AM   #7
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I haven't had a whole lot of luck with vacuum bleeders either. I've got a MityVac with a inline bottle set up to bleed brakes. Could never get a clean bleed without sucking bubble through, presumably, the nipple threads). May be it's just my lousy technique. I still prefer the simple pump-dump-clamp method.

Also, reverse bleeding is fine, if your only goal is to get rid of air in the line. At the end of the day, if you need to replace old fluid in the system with fresh fluid, you still have to bleed it through the nipple.
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:34 AM   #8
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On most on the non commercial bleeders the nipple adapter is hit or miss.
On those I recommend using a piece of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder.
Finish the job using the old school method of pump and release.
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:38 AM   #9
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If you have it "close" you can tie wrap the lever to the bar over night.

Usually the air will migrate up to the master.
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