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Old 07-28-2013, 11:08 PM   #21
Chinorlz
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Thank you gentlemen for your suggestions and comments! Much appreciated!!

Good news, was able to adjust the left side valves today. I just needed to rotate it another 360 degrees to get that cam lobe positioned right and then I could adjust valve clearance on the left super easy. Had to readjust the right side since they shifted ever so slightly when I had tightened down the lock screws.

I also cut off that hard plastic o-ring too.

Went to work painting paint stripping liquid on the nasty rock hard gaskets. Had to slowly shave it off as well in many parts using a scalpel that I had taken home from work.

Casings zpsefbe2a11

Valve covers/plates, left and right covers etc all getting the paint stripper work to get those 40 year old gaskets off of them.

Right zpsad9e90ce

Right side getting a clean-out

Gasket On zps234b18fe

Fresh gasket in place after cleaning

Oil Filter zps379e0240

Also checked out the oil filter as I replaced o-rings

Oil Crud zpsa6e70bf0

Pretty gross.

New Bolts zps5c369628

Finally got the two sides back on. Changed out the old screws for the hex set with anti-bind paste applied to the threads before them in.

I took off the carbs and will clean them over the course of the week and see if I can at least get these functioning appropriately before I get the Mikunis.

I wanted to check compression but I did not refill the oil yet so I didn't do a full compression test not wanting to run the system dry. I kicked the kick starter a couple of times though and man it is stiff! The first kick it felt like there were two "steps" that it ratcheted down somewhat and the second kick I head a "bloop" sound from within the engine. I remember hearing that sound when I first checked compression (before I knew the oil had been mixed extensively with gasoline after the bike had been in storage with the PO with the petcock open). What is that sound?

If I refill the oil, now that the carbs have been taken off, can I check compression without worrying about choke/throttle full open? Will I have to pump the kick starter a few times to get the oil circulating a little first to re-lube everything before I get a good real read?

I'm hoping with my valve adjustments on each side and having the (potentially malfunctioning carbs) off, I may get a better compression read than the 130-135 I had before.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:55 PM   #22
Chinorlz
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Bought some cleaning stuff today and went for the carbs:

Went for a 1-1.5 hr soak per carb after disassembly this evening.

Carb 1 zpsd9626303

Opened them both up and it wasn't as bad as others that i've seen here... a little grimy and the seals were rock hard and left lots of residue.

Carb 2 zps3fdc136e

Into the green bath for a while....

Carb 3 zpsba0e07bb

Healthy doses of carb cleaner into each and every little nook and cranny. Used my thinnest sewing needle to make sure all jet ports were nice and open. Nothing looked too gummed up.

Carb 4 zps3dd129f7

Then the polishing back to a dull luster

Carb 5 zpsd0013bc3

Everything polished, cleaned and dried.

Carb gasket/o-ring sets should arrive later this week so these will sit until then. In the meantime I'll be reading on here about setting the jets etc.

So weekend plan will be reinstalling the carbs and with fresh uni filters (need to buy filter oil this week as well), filling up the oil, priming the out of it and then seeing if it'll turn over!

I'll need to check the starter since when I put in the fresh battery and pushed the start button, I would hear the starter whirr but nothing would occur inside the engine.... recommendations on where to begin checking out that system? Check the chain from the starter to the engine?

Not a bad start to the week although that carb cleaner is some caustic stuff... practically dissolved my nitrile gloves.
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:42 AM   #23
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..
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:25 PM   #24
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Thanks for the update! I know you're not getting many responses but we're reading. Keep us updated, its interesting to follow.
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:11 PM   #25
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looks good. My 360 is just a rolling frame. This may inspire me to order some parts.
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Old 08-05-2013, 04:13 PM   #26
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:20 PM   #27
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Thanks! Will keep everyone updated.

Just ordered a bike jack so that I can begin disassembly this weekend.

Gives me a chance to do a good quality clean and polish to the engine and a possible paint job to it as well with it off of the bike.
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:25 PM   #28
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Had a few busy weekends otherwise so I couldnt spend time on the bike until this past weekend.

Was lucky enough to locate and purchase an original 1968 CB450 K1 tank with the chrome side panels as well


Got the tank and side panels in and got to work on them pretty quickly!

Tank 1 zpsc57cd72d

K1 Tank before stripping... looks like the "artsy" brown layer was applied directly on top of some heinous pale orange/pink sparkle paint job originally on the bike. One dent on the tank is all there can be seen.

Tank 2 zpsd2cd2f24

paint stripper applied and taking the nasty off...

Tank 3 zpsc52da84a

A peek at the inside rust...

Tanks 4 zps388d3449

The side chrome panels. One is pretty great, the other has a dent in it unfortunately:

Tank 6 zps642cb4c5


So today I used a rotary 3M paint stripper attachment to the drill and went to town on the tank. Battery ran out so it's charging now. Did discover a few sites of bondo but nothing catastrophic under all the layers.

My plan for the tank is to fully strip it (the outer parts that is... the underside where it contacts the bike I did not touch) and the sand with 240 grit to roughen the surface a bit and then reapply the bondo where it was before to smooth it again. Will also bondo the dent as seen in the first photo since theres already bondo on the tank... if it was pristine, I maybe would have tried to pop the dent.

Next, apply Duplicolor self etching primer, primer sealer and then their spray semi-gloss black.

All of these would be done to the full tank (even the underside that did not get stripped).

I know I need to rechrome the side panels since they aren't perfect and have a some tiny points where the chrome isn't perfect.

A few questions (as usual):

1. Is this painting plan okay? Or should I just let someone else do the whole thing? Trying to do it all myself and save on cost while learning and getting a good end product myself.

2. Should I be stripping the underside of the tank as well or really not an issue?

3. Any suggestions on reversing the dent in the chrome panel or should I go on the hunt for another K1 side panel now?


Ordered the requisite small screws for the badge and side panel attachments to the tank as well, now looking for badges and knee rubbers that aren't $100+ for a pair.

After the painting is all done, I plan to do the POR-15 kit with the cleaner, rust remover and the coating.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:19 PM   #29
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It looks far too nice to chop!

Good Luck
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:36 PM   #30
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1) painting plan sounds good. Painting is ALL about preparation.
If the surface is less than perfect the paint will be tip. Paint hides virtually nothing so take your time and get it right. After that, painting is easy, assuming you have a decent gun,a regulator and dry, oil free air.
2) If the paint on the bottom of the tank its in good condition just rough it up lightly with something like 380 grit sand paper and it will be fine, assuming the new paint its compatible with the old. If they don't like each other it will be a catastrophe. Maybe a little test spot would be a good idea.
3) Getting the dent out will be difficult. Maybe a good body man could do it. Otherwise your on your own. Give it a try and the worst that will happen is you will need to get a new one, which was your second option anyway.
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:02 PM   #31
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Thanks for the recs!!!
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:33 PM   #32
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I know it's been a while, but any updates?
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Old 04-21-2014, 12:03 PM   #33
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oops, been too busy lately to post up here regularly. Over the last several months have decided not to cut the frame and have gone with a cafe style. Getting close... completely rebuilt the front end, redid all electrical system and last week welded on the rear hoop and extended/replaced the rear electricals. Just need to figure out correct placement of everything and then i'll wrap everything up before tank and seat get painted, frame paint touched up and it should be super close to being ready to go. Custom rearsets to be installed as well once the new 2 to 1 exhaust gets ordered....
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Old 04-21-2014, 12:53 PM   #34
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Lets see some updated pictures! Sounds like good progress.
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