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Old 07-09-2013, 09:04 PM   #1
Truckin_Thumper
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who is the carb guru around here?

I am about to set fire to this M'fer!

2005 FZ1
Here is how I have the carbs set up.

125 mains
needle set to leanest pos.
airbox opened up
Yosh slip on stock header
air screws out 3.5 turns
1/2 clipped off the slide springs
no holes drilled in slide
sync vacuum set at 18 (spec is 22.5)
all coils are firing and check out within specs
header temps are 220-230 range
no exhaust leaks
No air intake/vacuum leaks

Thing fires up perfectly, idles like a champ, throttle response is as good as it gets.

Put a load under it.......bogs, misses, no power, runs like .

The specs I gave you above are for 2000-5000 feet.

should be ok for here considering we are pretty much at sea level.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:18 PM   #2
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CV40 style carb?
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:29 PM   #3
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From what google told me it is. I would change out the low speed jet, replace emulsion tubes. I can say the drilled carb slide definatly improves throttle response since I did all the mods on that carb one at a time, jets, then needle, then spring, then emulsion tube, then drilled slider. It takes all of the mods for it to really come together.

We got a zx-11 at Petes right now that someone BUTCHERED the drilling of the slides. So I understand your reluctance to do it. I recommend getting the aftermarket springs as well, much better than clipping them.

Sounds like your needle has the adjustable clip, take that baby down 2 spots so the needle sits higher in the emulsion tube. Since your running open box and exhaust raise the needle and roll back the turns to 2.5-2.75.

I went round and round on mine. Would run great, head up to austin, get to high hill, start losing power and back firing, get down to bottom of hill into 15 degree colder air, start gaining power and then start bogging down. It wasn't till I got all of the mods done did it run like it should.

It's all between the needle and the blew screw adjustments.. so of course means dropping the carbs and opening them again, and again, and again....until you find the sweet spot. Plus the clipped springs tend to be bouncy, why I recommend the aftermarket springs.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:29 PM   #4
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Not a carb guru but with mine when I had an FZ1.

Im just asking the questions because you are and I know when Im I do not have on the thinking cap:

All of those adjustments (mods) happened when you were servicing your bike or you are just putting the carb bank back into the bike with the same mods already done prior to service?

If the bike runs fine till load, have you checked the carb boots for a leak. Its not uncommon for the carb boots to be brittle and removing and replacing the carbs cracks the old rubber.

Just a thought.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blanco View Post
Not a carb guru but with mine when I had an FZ1.

Im just asking the questions because you are and I know when Im I do not have on the thinking cap:

All of those adjustments (mods) happened when you were servicing your bike or you are just putting the carb bank back into the bike with the same mods already done prior to service?

If the bike runs fine till load, have you checked the carb boots for a leak. Its not uncommon for the carb boots to be brittle and removing and replacing the carbs cracks the old rubber.

Just a thought.
Amen. That's a fact!
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:28 AM   #6
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I have doused the boot with carb cleaner......no leaks appear.

All I did was clean them, re-install. Sync.

I cant figure out why it would run like that afterwards.

Last edited by Truckin_Thumper; 07-10-2013 at 06:30 AM.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:18 AM   #7
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Sounds way lean.
Have you done any mods to the bike at the same tme?
When you cleaned the carbs did you replace the fuel screw o-rings?
Any chance you messed with the float height.
Have you always run the needle on the leanest position? That's very unusual considering your current mods of a slip on and modified airbox.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:00 AM   #8
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I think Patrick is on the right track but thought it'd chime in...
When I had a 1st gen FZ1 the popular mod was to install an Ivan's Performance jet kit. It comes with everything you need to do the mod with easy to follow instructions.
Even a drill bit to drill the slides.
After I installed the kit, my FZ1 was the sweetest fueling bike I have ever ridden. Really.

I highly recommend you check into it. You won't be sorry.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee View Post
I think Patrick is on the right track but thought it'd chime in...
When I had a 1st gen FZ1 the popular mod was to install an Ivan's Performance jet kit. It comes with everything you need to do the mod with easy to follow instructions.
Even a drill bit to drill the slides.
After I installed the kit, my FZ1 was the sweetest fueling bike I have ever ridden. Really.

I highly recommend you check into it. You won't be sorry.
I went Dale Walker's Holeshot kit on mine. Same story on how the bike ran.

P.S.: Even though I had a successful mission, that carb removal, installation clusterfuck made me go fuel injection for life!!!! Mapping is the way to go!
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:33 AM   #10
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Histroy:

about a month ago one of the EXUP cable ball ends fell off. Out it goes until I find some cables that are not $130.

kinda runs a bit funky, but I can live with it.

couple of weeks later, I start getting a stumble from just off idle to about 3K.
I have put 40K on the bike and not cleaned the carbs, I would assume a pilot jet was clogged with wonderful ethocrap.

last week, I pulled the carbs to clean and check everything.

What I found:
2 PJs were a bit gummed up......cleaned, mains all good, idle jets all cleaned.
Made a note of all sizes and condition.
checked float heights
Noted clips were right at half way up needles
Did not adjust anything.
benched synced.
Installed carbs.

Synced them to 18 hg on the vacuum.

Noticeable better idle....SWEET!

That is until a went for a test ride.
Sounded like a vaccum leak around the boots.
Nope
all was installed correctly so covered boots with carb cleaner.
No leaks evident.

I had adjusted and check all valves a month before hand, all within spec.
Double checked them for giggles, still within spec.

Thinking maybe the clogged PJs opened up more for fuel, I started in on checking air screws, all around 1.5 - 1.75 out.
Turned them to 3.5 turn out.
Raised the clip[ one notch as she has always run rich.
Throttle was not as snappy so clipped 1/2" off the springs.
Put it all back in....same

maybe a coil took a dump.
Nope, they are all in spec and header temps are all 215-230 at idle.



Maybe it is running rich. raised clips to the top

still running like , but the garage idle and throttle blip is perfect!

OK, maybe it is lean.
Drop clips to bottom.....same effect.

SOB!!!!

Needle clip, top, middle or bottom it runs the same.
Fouled plug?
I have some spares......put those in......same effect.

This is bordering insanity!!!!!

I am seriously stumped at this point
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:39 AM   #11
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:01 AM   #12
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I can help you. will post in a bit.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:19 AM   #13
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Should have changed the whole chain...
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:50 AM   #14
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:52 AM   #15
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Your carb vents not plugged up?
fuel filter clear?
Fuel pump functioning?
Throttle doesn't hang or bog when you blip the throttle?
What size main and pilot jets are stock?
What kind of carbs are on your bike?
Diaphragms are not torn?

3.5 turns out sounds like a lot for your idle mixture screws. If you're out that much you might have to bump up your pilots just a size.

Like Patrick said, sounds like you have a rich condition. Set your mixture screws to 2 turns out and set your needle clip position to very top. (lean) I don't know the factory specs on your carbs.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:03 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
Your carb vents not plugged up?
fuel filter clear?
Fuel pump functioning?
Throttle doesn't hang or bog when you blip the throttle?
What size main and pilot jets are stock?
What kind of carbs are on your bike?
Diaphragms are not torn?

3.5 turns out sounds like a lot for your idle mixture screws. If you're out that much you might have to bump up your pilots just a size.

Like Patrick said, sounds like you have a rich condition. Set your mixture screws to 2 turns out and set your needle clip position to very top. (lean) I don't know the factory specs on your carbs.
stock jet sizes are
130 on two
132.5 on the other two

even when I put this pig back the way I found it, I am getting the same results....in other words.
Cleaned> re-installed= sputter
Checked > re-installed = sputter
adjust > re-installed = sputter

seems no matter what I go = sputter.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:25 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truckin_Thumper View Post
stock jet sizes are
130 on two
132.5 on the other two

even when I put this pig back the way I found it, I am getting the same results....in other words.
Cleaned> re-installed= sputter
Checked > re-installed = sputter
adjust > re-installed = sputter

seems no matter what I go = sputter.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:34 AM   #18
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Any emissions junk on your bike? any codes? reset ECU?

oh wait, you're carbed lol.

So, bike idles fine and revs fine until you put it in gear and load the motor, then it stumbles and sputters. Did you hook up the fuel feed and vacuum lines correctly?
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:52 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
Any emissions junk on your bike? any codes? reset ECU?

oh wait, you're carbed lol.

So, bike idles fine and revs fine until you put it in gear and load the motor, then it stumbles and sputters. Did you hook up the fuel feed and vacuum lines correctly?
yes, but only on or about 1/4 throttle up.

starting off in 1st gear, up to around 2500 rpm it is perfect, so I fixed that issue
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:04 AM   #20
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Leak down or compression test?
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