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Old 06-11-2013, 11:46 PM   #1
techphr33k
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Valve clearance

2011 R6

Doing the valve clearance at 28,000 miles and ran into some interesting problems. Almost all of the exhaust valves need suspeciously small shims. I bought a shim kit and the smallest shim avalible is 0.12mm, but to shim some valves to spec I'll need a 0.05mm. Does a shim this small even exist? And shouldn't I be adding larger shims not smaller ones? When I checked gap for the first time with original shims in, most of the exhaust valves had no gap at all. My smallest gauge is 0.038mm and wouldn't fit, and yes this is at TDC for the specific cylinder. What is the deal here? Intake valves are fine and I have them shimed to spec now. Anyone....
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:19 AM   #2
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Are you 110% sure you had it at TDC for the correct cylinders? And checking them in the correct order?
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:39 AM   #3
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Just like the service Manual states. Even played with cam positioning to see if i could get it to gap, nope. Firing order is 1,2,4,3, but reguardles I check that the cam lobes are pointed away from each other and markers are in the right spots before measuring gap. Neighbor is an auto mechanic and verfied im doing it right. Ill look at it again when I get home from work and measure actual degrees the crank is turned from TDC on cyl#1.
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:11 AM   #4
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verify your timing as well as your math just to be sure.
That said, The R6's are notorious for the exhaust valves tightening up.
I've seen some so tight we couldn't get a feeler gauge of .0015" in.
It sounds like you may have sucked the valves deep into the seats significantly reducing the clearance. I blame both the titanium valves and extended valve clearance intervals.
The ti valves are very hard and beat the seats causing them to erode decreasing clearance.
By extending the inspection/adjustment interval the valve continues to get tighter and has less seat surface to cool itself. Eventually the valve itself will tulip.
You may need a valve job.
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Last edited by Patrick; 06-12-2013 at 06:15 AM.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:35 AM   #5
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thx Patrick. Guess ill be tearing it down for a closer look this evening.
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:52 PM   #6
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I just pulled the engine. Since its going to be down for a while I might as well make it easier on myself. Tomorrow I'll take a look at the valves. Thanks for the responses guys. I will keep the project updated for whoever is curious.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:06 PM   #7
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Okay, I'm waiting on a tool I ordered, to pull the valves. In the mean time I have the head off and what I can see looks OK from an armature perspective. I checked the exhaust valves for leaks and they hold up fine. From the underside they don't look recessed in to the head.

When I pull them off, if everything is fine with the head and valve seat, what is the next step? A friend of mine said to just check them for leaks, if no leaks then grind down the tops of the valves to make room for some shims and call it good. Anyone ever done this?
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:45 PM   #8
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:27 PM   #9
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Some exhaust valves have <0.038mm of gap with the smallest shim (1.20mm); basically no gap at all, that's just my smallest shim. The ones that do have a gap with the smallest shim don't have a large enough gap (out of spec).
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